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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
So I've had my car roughly a month. Bought it used with 3,000 miles on it. Got her for $18k with everything I wanted.

Meet Evey, as in E.V. Short for Elite (White) Veloster... A name that coincides with the female role in the movie V for Vendeta. So my little white Veloster's name is Evey.

As Purchased -
2016 DCT - VT - Elite White - Tech Package - Auto Dimming Rear View - Hub Locks

Immediate work done -
K&N Drop in filter

Here she is before I touched her...
Evey Virgin 2.jpg Evey Virgin.jpg

In the last week, I have stripped out all the tint and replaced it with limo all the way around including across the top of the windshield. A near must here in the valley of the sun
Tint Removed 2.jpg
Tint complete 1.jpg

I replaced theturn signals with basic LED's (for now) and installed the load resistors. I used 3M so I wouldn't have to add any holes into anything.
resistor 1.JPG
resistor 2.JPG

I installed my OCC which was a little more of a pain than I thought it would be... but not difficult.
OCC Install 1.JPG

While I had everything torn apart, I decided to punch a few extra holes in the fender side of the air box.
Air Box 4.jpg

I started on the 60MM TB upgrade and then this happened... cracked the damn thing tapping in the nipple. Pretty sure this one is trash... project is now on hold.
60mm cracked.JPG

Debadged the rear end as well
Debadged.JPG


EDIT - Forgot to mention that is disabled the active sound design as well, very happy about that too BTW.


Until next time... Hopefully I will have this 60mm TB figured out soon. The next round of goodies will be knocking out the 2nd cat (possibly replacing it with a Magnaflow straight tube), replacing the downpipe with a catless (I like the 845 product). and a lightened water pump pulley and crank pulley. At some point we will be bolstering the suspension and tunning.
 

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awesome start man! I think youll love the 845 catless DP. thats what im running and no CEL and sound great. i have a link in my build to my sound clip!
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Before I post more pics of the next round of build... I thought I would mention that something with the OCC I installed stinks. Smells like gas/oil/rubber... not sure if it is the can itself as it too smelled like gas/oil when I took it out of the box or if it is the tubes due to the extremely close proximity to the motor I ran them. I hate the smell and I will figure it out eventually and remidy it as it really bugs the crap out of me. But enough of that... onto the next update on Evey

Few weeks ago I removed the rear wiper. 300+ days of sunshine and zero snow means I don't need it so I wanted to clean up the rear end. I will probably re-route the water line and do the makeshift IC sprayer when I get bored one day. I couldn't find a decent plug that I liked so I cobbled one together with various parts from the hardware store. I also had to borrow a 2-jaw puller from the parts store to remove the wiper from the motor. I've seen some videos on other methods of doing this but they seem sketchy and open up the posibility for damage. The 2 jaw puller makes this portion of the work about 15 seconds worth of easy.

Parts used to make my plug... painted a specialty bolt gloss black and then used some rubber and metal washers to bring it all together. Took some grinding with the dremmel and a little "enginuity" to make it all work.
wiper delete 1.JPG

For anyone trying to do the same, each of those yellow plugs is a panel clip. There are also two more in the middle.... notice they are missing?? I broke them and I was even using a panel puller!!!
Wiper Delete 2.JPG
Luckily the parts store had a near perfect match. These worked perfectly and thus far nothing rattles and everything is holding good as new.
Wiper Delete 3.JPG

Inside panel with guts removed...
Wiper Delete 4.JPG
Inside panel with new guts...
Wiper Delete 5.JPG

And finally the now cleaner booty.... mmmmmmm look at that ass! I am quite the fan
Debadged 1.jpg


Now... I also recieved an ORCP and Coated ORHP v1 in the mail. Updates are coming
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
EDIT - for some reason this pose (post #4) was a duplicate of post 3... so I edited it out....
 

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Check my build thread for airbox mods...you will get significantly more flow of you remove the lid resonator, the fender well resonator, and remove the flapper tube. Punching holes also works :p
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
So my 60mm TB has been on the shelf because I couldn't (easily) solve the coupler problem. I bought the SXTH cold pipe thinking it was larger and would be able to be used but it didn't work so I got with XE and bought the ORCP.... I wish I had bought the 3TBS before starting this process as it would have been nice to complete it all at once when everything was off and it would have made fitting the ORCP a little easier (I think at least). I ended up having to pop the hood a second time after my initial installation and test drive and modify my installation but i don't believe this would have been an issue had I installed the 3TBS at the same time.

after everything was out... using grade 8 bolts I had laying around to plug the holes before I connected the coolant lines to create the coolant bypass
60mm removed.JPG

Here is my ORCP!! Nice piece of equipment for sure!!
ORCP.jpg
Aparently I never snapped a photo of the repaired 60MM TB... and it is too late now!! hahaha, but the 60MM TB has been repaired. Used JB Weld on the threads when I drove the nipple in and filled the crack as well. For the final installation, I ended up banding both sides of the joiner to ensure a tight seal on both sides. When I get the 3TBS I think i will be able to use only one worm gear clamp rather than two. However, its really just an aesthetics thing and it doesn't bug me either way. The install was super clean and works perfect. Fitment to the OEM IC and the 60MM TB is 100% perfect.
ORCP Revised.JPG

The 60MM has been on all week... It's immidiatly apparent that the throttle is more responsive. I think the MT guys must be even more happy with this than the AT and DCT guys... reason being, when driving in shit traffic at low speeds, the car wants to lurch forward without much of my control. It's like dropping the clutch hard every time I put the slightest pressure on the peddal in slow-n-go traffic. On that note, it is a little frustrating and I don't think MT guys have this issue. However, the benifits outweight this as it picks up quicker at low end RPMs and when driving at speed it responds quicker to the throttle when I want to pass a vehicle. It's especially quicker at highway speeds when I need to speed up to go around someone. All in all, this was a very good mod. I paid about $60 for the throttle body and about $100 for the ORCP (lets not talk about the wasted money on the SXTH CP - Which is a fantastic product but simply doesn't work for this application). well worth the $160 and roughly 90 minutes of my time.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Check my build thread for airbox mods...you will get significantly more flow of you remove the lid resonator, the fender well resonator, and remove the flapper tube. Punching holes also works :p
I've already removed the lid resonator... ripped that bitch out the second I pulled it open and saw it there. Saw no purpose for it so I just grabbed it and gave it a good tug. Came right out. I began to try to remove than fender well resonator but realized there is a bolt on the inside that is a straight mother fucker to get to and abandoned the project for a later date when I am feeling more patient. I punched the holes on the "cold" side because I didn't want to suck in air directly from the motor side of the box.
 

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You're sucking air through that side already. The increase in airflow negates any increase in temperature. I've measured no significant IAT increase. Just more flow. I also made an extension to replace the resonator and draw cool air from near the foglight. Made a huge difference.
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
ORHP that I got in the mail (thanks to Robo for the hookup and to Xe for the immensely high-quality product).
ORHP.jpg
The ORHP was so easy to install it's silly... took me 30 minutes to complete and that is becuase I pulled the car up on ramps and started working with the car at nearly operating temps! Essentially, it's four bolts to remove and two bolts for the installation of the new part. I didn't snap too many photos because I got the job done, drove it a bit and then made dinner and went to bed.

Here is the installed product
ORHP2.jpg

The turbo spool is louder in all the best ways and it seems to have added low end power. It also seems as if throttle response imrpoved even after the 60MM TB (which was installed two days earlier.)

it's hard to tell how many ponies everything has added to the car (if any) as I have done them all in fairly close proximity to eachother. I will say this, my car feel quicker in the low end RPM range for sure. I am not sure If I can say I've gained anything up top as it is harder to tell. I know the end all for this portion of the discussion is "did you dyno" but dyno time isn't cheap and most of these mods are well documented which is also why I didn't go into a ton of detial on my installation. If anyone has questions, let me know. I am getting omre and more familiar with this car by the day.
 

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Get the new MAP sensor if you've not yet done it. You'll see ANOTHER improvement in smoothness and bottom end.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Get the new MAP sensor if you've not yet done it. You'll see ANOTHER improvement in smoothness and bottom end.
oh yea... did that already... I never think of that as a MOD since Hyundai is now using that part number as their standard equipment for the MAP sensor from my understanding.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Going to put in work on the fog light and rear reflector vents this morning as this came in this week as well....

 

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Where is this resonator in the air box? And where did you get your map sensor, San tan? I want to fix this little jittery pull issue in 2nd and 3rd.
In the lid where the intake tube attaches.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Where is this resonator in the air box? And where did you get your map sensor, San tan? I want to fix this little jittery pull issue in 2nd and 3rd.
As mentioned above, it's that goofy hunk of plastin in the lid of the intake box. I just grabbed mine and gave it a good yank. can never be put back in doing it my way though. hahaha... I did buy the sensor at San Tan and you will pay a fortune for it that way but I didn't want to wait for Korea to ship it. If you are patient you can get it much cheaper off the boat by ordering online. Once you have the part it takes all of 15 seconds to swap it out. i did it in the parking lot at San Tan.
 

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As mentioned above, it's that goofy hunk of plastin in the lid of the intake box. I just grabbed mine and gave it a good yank. can never be put back in doing it my way though. hahaha... I did buy the sensor at San Tan and you will pay a fortune for it that way but I didn't want to wait for Korea to ship it. If you are patient you can get it much cheaper off the boat by ordering online. Once you have the part it takes all of 15 seconds to swap it out. i did it in the parking lot at San Tan.
Oh wow okay. I'll check in to that online then! What's the benefit of remove the resonator? I will do that when I get home if it's not blazing hot outside.
 

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Discussion Starter #19 (Edited)
Took a ton of time (pretty much all day yesterday and into the night) but I got these bad boys done for a fraction of the cost of buying. I followed the DIY on the fronts to the tee and it went well. I used a black powdercoated mesh from CustomMeshGrills.com. The beauty of that was that I ordered it from their scrap section and paid next to nothing for it. The MORE beauty of it is that I didn't have to paint it or the housing so my housing is still the factory color (which I like becuase I am trying to keep the car ballanced between custom and OEM)

The rears were a bit more difficult and I am glad I did those second. The biggest thing is, because of its shape you cannot create a stencil for it so its much more freehand. it took a lot more "shapping" after the innitial cutout was made and bending the mesh and attaching it was much more difficult than the front.

snap of front almost done and a rear cutout
Vents.JPG

Fronts Done -
Vents Front.JPG

Rears Done -
Vents Rear.JPG

Fronts installed (whith wife's GT in the background)
Vents Front Installed.JPG

Rears installed (pardon the easy up). I have since painted the inside with matte black plastidip and it looks significantly better. The white inside there was too crappy.
Vents Rear Installed.JPG
Vents Rear Installed 2.JPG

lost the lid to my automotive goop mid project so had to jimmy this up too... hahahah
Goop.JPG
 

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Discussion Starter #20 (Edited)
Also removed this hunk of shit... (but not completely :saint:)

Intake Custom 4.JPG
 
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