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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Guess I could consider myself lucky,

I have a fully stock (other than HID Heads / Fogs) 2013 Veloster Turbo.

It has 90 000 miles. And the only thing I have changed were the spark plugs around 50 000 miles due to it starting to idle a tiny bit rough (which fixed the problem). Stick shift so still have original brakes and everything (will be doing pads / rotors in the spring)

Anyway, another winter is coming up. Today I had my first ever issue, I noticed my AC power button shut off and wouldn't turn back on (I use the fast charge cable for my phone and plug it into the center console). Sure enough after parking and coming back out of the store, it wouldn't turn over. Called a friend for a boost, turned right over, idled it for a bit then took it for a 10m spin. Later on I started it up without issue.

However given the battery is almost 9 years old now. Figured I may as well just put a new one in. I pulled this out of the car tonight (see photos).

Research is showing me that many are suggesting an H5, with minimum 600 CCA. Which is quite different than the one which was in the car.
Not scared to get my hands dirty, but also a bit of a newbie when it comes to mechanical work.

Most of the photos I see of the H5 have the positive on the right and negative on the left. This is going to be a problem as there is little to no give on the cables. Are you able to turn a car battery 180 degrees and still have it fit properly and clamp in?*

What I plan to do tomorrow is shop 3 stores, and bring the fire insulator piece with me to fit it over the batteries (making sure the size is fine). Once I find the best option and the correct fit (hopefully with the positive on the left and negative on the right!?*) Then I will get one of those wire brushes, petroleum jelly, and some cleaner (or make my own with water / baking soda).

Does anyone have any suggestions for good battery replacements which they have put in their cars?

Motor vehicle Chainsaw Gas Handwriting Waste
Wood Waste containment Gas Asphalt Machine

3 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Finding a good battery to fit the car should not be an issue. Many sizes can be run. Just get a battery with a good warranty with same or higher CCA than the oem. Car batteries need to be replaced every 5 years anyway. Your plugs need to be changed every 50k miles as well by the way. Go to the oem plug for a 16+ VT or 19+ VN. Having a 13 you may want to read up on good maintenance so it lasts much longer than it may on the current route.
Thanks I went with the 121R from Costco. It was right beside the H5. For $80 USD vs $90USD for the H5.
I chose it because the old insulator fit perfectly around on the 121R, the positive side was also on the left.

Vs the H5 which was much wider, and the insulator would of had to be tossed (think I did a quick search and a new H5 insulator would have been like $30+ extra. Battery would of had to been flipped around too.

Is what it is I guess. Maybe I will try the H5 next time. No issues clamping down the 121R, the positive terminal was a little bit of a tight fit trying to get it over the top and pushed in however it still fit fine. Turned over with 0 hesitation.

In case anyone was wondering (for kirkland brand)

121R vs H5


Amp Hour 62
BCI Group Number 121R
Cold Cranking Amps 600 Amps
Cranking Amps 750 Amps
Reserve Capacity 110 Minute
Voltage 12 Volt

Amp Hour 54
BCI Group Number H5
Cold Cranking Amps 650 Amps
Cranking Amps 810 Amps
Reserve Capacity 100 Minute
Voltage 12 Volt

Guess more CCA would of been a trade off for tossing the insulator and having and tighter fit.

3 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
In Canada you may need all the CCA you can get!
heh right! Should be good considering the old battery was like 430CCA.

You mentioned in your other post about good maintenance. I guess I should have seen the dead battery coming when I compare some subtle differences now vs before (such as the interior lights now much stronger, and the HID's much brighter and not even the slightest flicker)

Anything in-particular maintenance wise to watch out for? Or just the standard stuff at intervals detailed in the car manual?

Come the spring since I don't drive very much in the winter. Planning to do the pads / rotors (they were checked last oil change when swapping tires a couple weeks ago, and even to the tech's surprise pads still had 5mm on the front and 4mm on the back)

The accessory belt (and have them inspect and change out any other belts while doing that one if in bad shape)

The spark plugs and coil packs. You mentioned to go with a OEM plug from the newer models of the veloster tubro / N? What are the main benefits?

I know the last plug change was swapped with NGKs OEM for the 2013. But if there is a major difference for the better I will keep an eye out, since I tend to just grab parts when good deals arrive.

That is why I have 4 coil packs sitting here, AFOAF was visiting from Korea and I got them to bring me over 4 for just $160 USD. The stealership here wanted $600!! Crazy!!, figured it was a good opportunity to keep some on hand if I ever had a misfire that was not solved by replacing just the plugs. But come spring if doing the plugs, may as well put them in and then just keep the oil ones on hand for trouble shooting later if any issues.
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