[FirstTurboDD]

Hey everyone,

(Just apologizing up front to my lack of knowledge/technical terms. As much as I love cars and research them I have not learned anything passed the basics.)

Most likely buying a VT within the next month. After test driving it I found a couple of things lacking.

For 1: the exhaust note was a little too quiet for my tastes. I'd like it to be docile or at least not TOO loud while at speed, but when i want to have fun with it I want to hear something more. Any fixes for this?

Second: I settled on this car for many reasons, three of the biggest being its price, decent power(200+hp club even if by 1 hp)/mpg, and that it uses 87octane. With that being said I would like to increase its straight line power. I have no plans of taking it to the track or anything, but when I step on the gas at a stop light it be nice to not be beat off the line by a camry v6. I was wondering if anyone knew what modifications do not void the warranty, and if they have any major effects on mpg or insurance rates.

Third: Has anyone replaced the shift knob? It was much larger than any other M/T car I've ever driven. It felt more like an automatic knob to be honest.

Finally: I'd like to keep everything below $1k, at least for now.

Thanks in Advance!

 

[Retsolev]

Any modification WILL void the warranty on THAT PART, ofcourse you can just put the factory parts back on without anybody noticing.
There are a few backyard things you can do to spice up the car, and since the VT has no MAF sensors (Mass Air Flow) you can very easily put a CAI or SRI! and again theise parts easily go back on if you need to bring it in for repairs and want to hide the fact that you've modded her.

You may want to see this law: Magnuson (depending on where you live)

 

[ARKPERFORMANCE]

+1. Technically no bolt on parts should void warranty. The only thing is keep your stock parts just incase there is a major warranty issue. The dealers want every reason to not honor their warranty.

 

[Turbosocks]

the biggest aftermarket piece that I see causing issues with the entire engine warranty is a CAI/SRI. This gives the dealer a great defense for not repairing anything engine related. They can point at the filter for pretty much any issues to do with engine issues and say that it allowed something to be sucked in which caused the problem..

Exhaust and BOV can't really cause any issues so I would never worry about them and warranty issues.

Even if the SRI wasn't the cause for a particular failure it gives them a much easier case and something to point to. They can hardly point at a BOV or exhaust system if the motor locked up, spun a bearing, etc.

You can easily do a TON of modifications to the car for under 1000$.

A Cone filter on the stock intake system will cost about 20$ or so.

You can remove the bypass hose and plug the intake side to make the BPV act and sound like a BOV for almost FREE.

You can remove the muffler and have straight pipe routed back (like I did) to free up the exhaust system for under 200$. If you don't want it to loud you can add a 30$ resonator to the mix. This will be about the most free flowing setup you can hope for. The turbo itself provides the backpressure you will need and the cat also stays in tact.

You can do lowering springs for <200$ and that shouldn't void any warranty (other than suspension components) or have the chance to cause any issues.

I don't know how the stock shift knob comes off but happen to really like it.

As far as insurance goes, don't tell them.

Good mod list to stay well under 1000$ and get the best bang for your buck:

Muffler removal + add resonator: ~230$ at local exhaust shop
Cone filter + pipe adapter: ~20-25$
NGM lowering springs: ~175$
DIY shifter bushings: ~10$
Bypass hose removal (for BOV sound): ~<1$
DIY Oil catch can +breather bypass: ~20$

Total: ~460$

You could do a DIY SRI/CAI to get a bit better flow and use hard piping for around 60-80$ (piping + couplers + clamps)

Lighter wheels and stickier tires will also help but add to the expense. I got wheels for 568$ shipped that are about 5lbs lighter than the stock wheels, a piece. The tires I am looking at are 540$ shipped. 10mm wider than stock and rated MUCH better in all departments (General AS-03)

You can also widen the stance by going with a set of wheel spacers for ~180$. This should increase the 'planted' feel and handling of the car, as well as the looks.

If you are wanting to stay under the 1000$ budget, tires would be a better idea for performance than the wheels in most cases.

 

[UB13VT]

Hey everyone,

(Just apologizing up front to my lack of knowledge/technical terms. As much as I love cars and research them I have not learned anything passed the basics.)

Most likely buying a VT within the next month. After test driving it I found a couple of things lacking.

For 1: the exhaust note was a little too quiet for my tastes. I'd like it to be docile or at least not TOO loud while at speed, but when i want to have fun with it I want to hear something more. Any fixes for this?

Second: I settled on this car for many reasons, three of the biggest being its price, decent power(200+hp club even if by 1 hp)/mpg, and that it uses 87octane. With that being said I would like to increase its straight line power. I have no plans of taking it to the track or anything, but when I step on the gas at a stop light it be nice to not be beat off the line by a camry v6. I was wondering if anyone knew what modifications do not void the warranty, and if they have any major effects on mpg or insurance rates.

Third: Has anyone replaced the shift knob? It was much larger than any other M/T car I've ever driven. It felt more like an automatic knob to be honest.

Finally: I'd like to keep everything below $1k, at least for now.

Thanks in Advance!

The new camrys v6s are 13 second cars with traction thanks to almost 300hp. Your VT will not even be close to them with Cai and exhaust work.

Now onto mods. Hyundai cannot void your power train warranty just because you put on a Cai. They have to prove the aftermarket part caused the engine or one of its components to fail.

The first mods of these cars should be

- Custom Cai
- Custom down pipe with cat removed or high flow cat. A 2.5" would be perfect
- Custom cutback. Again 2.5" would be ideal with a nice muffler like a dynomax vt. For the love of god DO NOT run muffler less or with a glass pack. You just spent 25k. Do you really wanna cheap out now?

 

[Fixer]

What is a cone filter and how do you mount it to the stock intake system?

 

[Retsolev]

You can remove the bypass hose and plug the intake side to make the BPV act and sound like a BOV for almost FREE.

http://www.velosterturbo.org/forum/veloster-performance/475-bpv-bov-4-free.html#post4591

 

[chingoo04]

the biggest aftermarket piece that I see causing issues with the entire engine warranty is a CAI/SRI. This gives the dealer a great defense for not repairing anything engine related. They can point at the filter for pretty much any issues to do with engine issues and say that it allowed something to be sucked in which caused the problem..

Exhaust and BOV can't really cause any issues so I would never worry about them and warranty issues.

Even if the SRI wasn't the cause for a particular failure it gives them a much easier case and something to point to. They can hardly point at a BOV or exhaust system if the motor locked up, spun a bearing, etc.

You can easily do a TON of modifications to the car for under 1000$.

A Cone filter on the stock intake system will cost about 20$ or so.

You can remove the bypass hose and plug the intake side to make the BPV act and sound like a BOV for almost FREE.

You can remove the muffler and have straight pipe routed back (like I did) to free up the exhaust system for under 200$. If you don't want it to loud you can add a 30$ resonator to the mix. This will be about the most free flowing setup you can hope for. The turbo itself provides the backpressure you will need and the cat also stays in tact.

You can do lowering springs for <200$ and that shouldn't void any warranty (other than suspension components) or have the chance to cause any issues.

I don't know how the stock shift knob comes off but happen to really like it.

As far as insurance goes, don't tell them.

Good mod list to stay well under 1000$ and get the best bang for your buck:

Muffler removal + add resonator: ~230$ at local exhaust shop
Cone filter + pipe adapter: ~20-25$
NGM lowering springs: ~175$
DIY shifter bushings: ~10$
Bypass hose removal (for BOV sound): ~<1$
DIY Oil catch can +breather bypass: ~20$

Total: ~460$

You could do a DIY SRI/CAI to get a bit better flow and use hard piping for around 60-80$ (piping + couplers + clamps)

Lighter wheels and stickier tires will also help but add to the expense. I got wheels for 568$ shipped that are about 5lbs lighter than the stock wheels, a piece. The tires I am looking at are 540$ shipped. 10mm wider than stock and rated MUCH better in all departments (General AS-03)

You can also widen the stance by going with a set of wheel spacers for ~180$. This should increase the 'planted' feel and handling of the car, as well as the looks.

If you are wanting to stay under the 1000$ budget, tires would be a better idea for performance than the wheels in most cases.

Hello, what kind of cone filter + pipe adapter do i have to use? if you don't mind telling me =).
Could you put a link for me.
Thank you =)