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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok, so now that it is getting colder, I would like to revisit the forge BOV and our friendly P2261 CEL..

With the cold and the time it takes the car to warm up and such, the BOV doesn't open as often under non-boost shifts. This means the throwing of CEL P2261 more often. Other than the annoying light, this doesn't really do anything. The 'turkey gobble' from a no-boost or even light boost shift is not going to harm anything, ever, so don't worry about it.

There is a way to pretty much cure this though. You need to have one 'boosted' run and it will open the BOV. For some reason, after the BOV opens once, it is much easier to open after that.

I am pretty much throwing the CEL every other day since it is cold and then I just clear it. On my drives to work, I drive 'eco' style so I am hardly ever in boost.

Just thought some people would want to know so they aren't freaking out when they pop a CEL.

I am using the yellow (second stiffest) spring in the BOV right now.

The BOV still always opens under a boosted condition (over like 4psi) so there are no mechanical worries.
 

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I don't know a great deal about the technical stuff...
However, I'm using the green spring, and haven't thrown a CEL in cold start conditions. We're talking just above freezing in the mornings, 1C or so.
My first piece of road is a long stretch of uphill, and I notice that it sounds funny for about 10 seconds... like it's "leaking" air...then it returns to a the normal BOV sound.
I don't warm up my car at all either, I just hop in, start and go.
 

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I live In quebec, and I have to remove my BOV and my Injen SRI cause it's too cold.... I decide to do this cause my engin light goes on! :(
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
SRI/CAI had nothing to do with a check engine light. The BOV is the only thing that will trip a CEL, unless there is some other issue.

I may try the green spring but it should be similar. It all has to do with driving style also.. If you start up the car and build enough pressure to open it once, it will be fine from then on. It's the times when you don't get on it enough to open it initially that will throw the CEL after 3 failed openings.
 

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SO basically the bov is just sticking cause of the cold temp? And by doing a hard run and applies enough pressure to just loose it up for the rest of the trip?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
i don't know that it is sticking as much as it is the heavier spring with the stock vacuum system.
 

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I don't know a great deal about the technical stuff...
However, I'm using the green spring, and haven't thrown a CEL in cold start conditions. We're talking just above freezing in the mornings, 1C or so.
My first piece of road is a long stretch of uphill, and I notice that it sounds funny for about 10 seconds... like it's "leaking" air...then it returns to a the normal BOV sound.
I don't warm up my car at all either, I just hop in, start and go.
Is this good for the car? Typically I let my car idle for 5 minutes or so each morning before driving to work. Is this the right thing to do or just jump in and go?
 

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Ya I wondering about this myself now... I try not too spool the turbo until the engine has been running a little while and built up a little heat... I have the stock system in place right now... but had a Forge on my list of things to do...?
 

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Ya I wondering about this myself now... I try not too spool the turbo until the engine has been running a little while and built up a little heat... I have the stock system in place right now... but had a Forge on my list of things to do...?
If you noticed a lot of people with the Forge said not to get it. Just disconnect the breather cable and you essentially turn the BPV into a BOV, I just went that route along with Turbosocks' CAI. It sounds sweeeeeeeet.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
the sound is the same but will be more prone to leaking and rubber diaphragms wear out. Also when you raise the boost (if you do) even more prone to leaking.

The way I look at it though is if you raise the boost, you should be getting a FMIC kit anyway.

With my FMIC kit coming in at under 600$ shipped once production starts, you will get the BOV and everything to compensate for more boost and if you had the forge you would have to sell it, probably at a loss. If I still had my stock BPV, I would most likely put it back on and get rid of the forge.. It is a high end BOV but I don't really see much point, in retrospect.

On the warming up of the car. I try to let it get to at least 3 bars (on the coolant temp) before I do anything crazy. This often causes me to pop the CEL in the cold as the BOV has trouble opening before the car is warmed up and under light throttle.
 

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On the warming up of the car. I try to let it get to at least 3 bars (on the coolant temp) before I do anything crazy. This often causes me to pop the CEL in the cold as the BOV has trouble opening before the car is warmed up and under light throttle.
Do you let your car warm up at all before you start driving it at all or do you just take off on start up?
 
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