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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
So yesterday finally I was free and my fuel line from Sxth element being just dangling in my garage for 2 months now, I had no will or time to change it. This one:
http://www.sxthelement.com/Fuel-Pump-Feed-Line-VT-ST-FSX-ES-p/01-01-703.htm
My car wasn't really effected (did the serial check with hyundai) regarding the fuel line failure, but bought one anyway.
Took me about 3hrs to change, that includes searching for rolled away plastic clips and cleaning the black sticky goo off my hand at the gas tank cover under the seat.
So, results..

First of all, I have to note, that when I first tried to take of the resonator pipe and tried to pry off that aluminum cap with a small flathead screwdriver from the worm clamp, the frickin thing turned! I mean, the clamp was loose I could turn the worm screw with my finger. So, it was actually worth to climb under the car, if nothing else, I was probably having a minor boost leak there, although the rubber pipe was still tightly fit on it.
I'm just advising people to periodically check these things, any rubber or clamp related to vacuum or boost, they do get loose on their own too, especially if it was never touched.
Especially hot spots, like the turbo and the hot pipe, same thing with the coolant pipes etc..

Anything rubber connected to these, the rubber start to loose elasticity and shrink/harden over time and clamps that were once tight can become loose on them because of loss of diameter as the rubber ages.

So anyway, changed the resonator to a straight pipe, not sure how I feel about this, I mean the car revs quicker, but there is that loss of low end torque.
The fuel line is a B$#$ch to work with as everyone noted, the aftermarket product will no how or no way gonna fit back in the plastic clamps with the rest of the hoses, so you gotta get creative and use a lot of zip ties, cable ties, clamps whatever, just keep it connected to the bottom of your car.

The plastic cover over these hoses (long plastic thing that covers up the hoses and breaklines ) is kinda trash, once you take it off, the plastic knobs and stuff may/may not snap off and I'm gonna be keeping an eye on it, not liking how only plastic clips holds them on, I'll figure out something and climb under again and get it up there with my methods (you gonna need a flamethrower and a jackhammer to get it off again :cool: )

So just be aware if you do this, your high pres. fuel pump will get louder and you gonna hear the tick-tick-tick- inside the car, not annoyingly loud, but something to keep in mind.
Overall, the car feels a lot more responsive to the pedal input and easily gets up to the redline, although I still feel something is still holding it back at certain situations, but not every time (wastegate solenoid or the car is pulling preventative timing on me and nothing i can do about it).

For those, who don't mind to get dirty and smell like gasoline for a few hours and also want their car feel like it has a turbo :rolleyes: the fuel line upgrade is definetely recommended. About the res-pipe. yeah..ok will make your car feel better, but it's my daily driver and I don't WOT many times, but I do sit in traffic for at least a few minutes every day, so I might put that resonator back in.

If you got any questions about how-to and whatever related to installing these, ask away!
 

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Make sure you reset the ECU.
That may make getting rid of the resonator more distinctive.
Thats the best bang for your buck of arguably any mod, with some people claiming 10-15 hp difference.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Yeah it was reset, actually the whole battery was removed and the ECU too .


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The hot pipe resonator delete will not add much power. However, a good hotpipe flows better and will add 7-8 whp or so.

Always reset the ecu with any mods.

@theunderdog:

The issues with the oem and aftermarket fuel lines are known. Look up how to help fix the noise from the aftermarket line.
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
The hot pipe resonator delete will not add much power. However, a good hotpipe flows better and will add 7-8 whp or so.

Always reset the ecu with any mods.

@theunderdog:

The issues with the oem and aftermarket fuel lines are known. Look up how to help fix the noise from the aftermarket line.
Just as a personal opinion, this resonator is not only to dampen sound. Perhaps it works similarly to how naturally aspirated engines have these air reservoirs
attached to either the intake or the air box?
This resonator doubles the volume of air it can hold, compared to just a straight pipe, regardless how small it is.

I'm also gonna have the line insulated. I can hear it's not really the fuel pump that makes the biggest noise, but the line itself vibrates , especially at the fuel tank. I'm gonna get some rubber/foam insulator pulled onto it.
 

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Just as a personal opinion, this resonator is not only to dampen sound. Perhaps it works similarly to how naturally aspirated engines have these air reservoirs
attached to either the intake or the air box?
This resonator doubles the volume of air it can hold, compared to just a straight pipe, regardless how small it is.

I'm also gonna have the line insulated. I can hear it's not really the fuel pump that makes the biggest noise, but the line itself vibrates , especially at the fuel tank. I'm gonna get some rubber/foam insulator pulled onto it.
The hot pipe resonator delete just smoothes out air flow from the turbo to allow better flow, response, and more power. It helps, just not as much as a quality full hot pipe does. The volume of the pipe has different effects than volume on the intake side.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
It’s a bit hard to believe, knowing Hyundai likes to go cheaper if possible and still develop this chambered pipe instead of just connecting it directly or use a regular piece of aluminum pipe without chambers. All this just for a few decibels of sound dampening.


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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
Finally I got off my lazy a$$ today and did a few things, that changed the whole car around, sort of.
Since I had my performance fuel line installed, what bothered me the most was the vibration noise, as it was hitting the frame or fuel tank whatever.
So tried to figure out what would be the best, I got this pipe insulator foam thing from Lowe's for 1/2" pipes, cost me a whole lot of $1.00.
I can't believe how easy fix this was. The hardest part was getting out of my nice and warm house and get enough motivation to crawl under the car.
Took the backseat out, lifted the car at the back and these insulators are already pre-cut length wise
I know I won't win any beauty contests with this, but I'm very satisfied with the absolutely no vibration noise anymore.
The insulator pretty much slipped on on its own as I was working it down from the fuel connection to around the gast tank and to under the car. It feels very tight and snug on it only ziptied on top, I kinda cut it in an ugly way, but who cares.

I also been having an issue with serious lag and sometimes even surging during acceleration around 50-70mph, so I finally changed my coils for someone's recommendation also got the cooler spark plugs made for the 2014.
The car really came alive..I can't believe how much better it runs! My littlebit-vibrating idle is also gone, it idles smooth as butter!
I recommend everyone who has some sort of an issue especially at higher rpms to change the damn coils, these things seem to last no more than 40K.

Here is how it is under the car as it comes down from the top of the tank: (a cover plate goes on that screw, which tightens up and covers that plastic and my foam ending)
IMG_1839.JPG
Here is at the connection.
IMG_1837.JPG
 

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I did something similar and it works well to deaden the sound from the fuel line.
 

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Turbosocks line is loud to. I like this idea:)
 

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Kinda new here so 🐻 with me please , I plan on getting my 16vt tuned soon I have FBO’s and thousands of different opinions I have ruled out I will not do methanol injection but I need to upgrade my fuel lines as recommended . Should I also upgrade my fuel pump ?
 
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