[geekdragon]

I always figured I'd keep this car pretty much stock and keep the factory warranty. Based on that, a build thread would just be a waste of time. It took a couple of years before I realized I should probably have started one -- pretty much right away. So I'm going to cheat and post links to past build items, rather than copying and pasting everything wholesale. New additions will be added properly.

10-21-2015 - Signed off of the Hyundai Forums for my regular participation with my 2007 Accent.
10-22-2015 - Took delivery of my 2016 Veloster

Just realized I never even started a welcome thread here, being the antisocial bastard that I am.

11-07-2015 - Got the windows tinted by the dealer

11-13-2015 - 6th Element Engineering SRI install and mini review. This represented a moment of ridiculous bravery for me, not especially mechanically inclined, but pulling the front bumper off a car I'd been financing for only 3 weeks.

01-29-2016 - I won January VT of the Month

02-29-2016 - Cerma engine treatment

05-11-2016 - Dual Saikou Michi Oil Catch Cans, parts arrive
05-16-2016 - Interim install
05-19-2016 - Final install

06-04-2016 - OEM rear bumper lip guard

06-11-2016 - NST pulleys installed

06-23-2016 - Pierce Motorsports Rear Torsion Bar - delivered
06-24-2016 - Pierce bar installed

07-09-2016 - ORHP install

07-30-2016 - ORHP adjustment #1, Uniq Rigid Collars

08-06-2016 - Manual transmission fluid changed to Redline D4 ATF, with Cerma transmission additive.

08-06-2016 - CNT Catback Exhaust install
08-12-2016 - CNT Catback follow-up and adjustment
09-24-2016 - CNT Catback brute force adjustment

08-27-2016 - 6EE / SXTH Shifter and shifter cable bushings

09-24-2016 - Rev 75A engine mount insert, ORHP adjustment #2
09-24-2016 - Pillar pod, Defi Boost and Volt gauges install
09-24-2016 - Built an over-elaborate adapter to tee the evap line for a boost reference (just to avoid getting a vacuum block or TB spacer... because I'd never need one of those ever. lol).

09-25-2016 - NST water pump pulley cracked, replaced

10-05-2016 - Gauge hood/shade/visors - Really a necessity if the gauges are near the windscreen.

10-24-2016 - Canadian Dealer OEM hood protector

02-12-2017 - Custom Molded Sequence-style Devil Spoiler

03-17-2017 - Upgraded hatch lift struts (to properly support spoiler)

07-25-2017 - CNT exhaust flex pipe patch
07-28-2017 - final repair

07-31-2017 - 60mm throttle body purchased
08-02-2017 - 60mm throttle body painting

08-12-2017 - TB install, Xenon Element 3TBS, ORCP, XWEK, XPVS

10-05-2017 - SXTH remote Tune

11-18-2017 - Tork Motorsports Boost (wastegate) solenoid, Turbosmart Kompact dual port BOV

04-13-2018 - PIAA triple-horn setup

04-21-2018 - Aukey DR02 dual dash camera

05-15-2018 - Customs engraved shifter knob by SXTH

I really need to get her cleaned up for some fresh pictures. Didn't realize it had been so long. Anyways -- belated build thread. Yay!

 

[Bigbird]

Bout time. Lookin forward to updates.

 

[geekdragon]

About the only thing still on the books right now is watching out for a spare ECU, and keeping an eye on the remote tuning scene.

 

[TyBardy]

hahaha... this format is kind of nice! I get to click on the shit I am interested in and skip the stuff I'm not... you might be onto something here!

 

[jimlloyd40]

The Cerma engine treatment should't be used until you have 30,000 miles according to Cerma. You won't notice any difference until an engine is completely broken in and the tolerances aren't as tight .

 

[E9C900A]

Completely false, Jim. The goal of CERMA is to reduce friction and protect the metal from wear. Waiting until 30K miles is silly. The original proponent worked with CERMA John to establish that they can be added within a few thousand miles when new or after a rebuild.

 

[geekdragon]

The Cerma engine treatment should't be used until you have 30,000 miles according to Cerma. You won't notice any difference until an engine is completely broken in and the tolerances aren't as tight .

Instructions are included for new and low-mileage cars. They just call for a lower dose.

As far as the wisdom of treating a brand new car -- I still think it was a good investment. Cerma is big on wear prevention, and not just mitigation. Get that thin layer in a new engine, bring that wear to near halt, and you have enough left over for a couple of maintenance treatments down the road.

 

[TC4Tay]

Nice build thread, now I have a good reference point for installs :smile:

 

[leesrt]

Completely false, Jim. The goal of CERMA is to reduce friction and protect the metal from wear. Waiting until 30K miles is silly. The original proponent worked with CERMA John to establish that they can be added within a few thousand miles when new or after a rebuild.

I did mine right at 3k miles using a half dose, like the directions state

 

[geekdragon]

Followed a lead on car-part.com, and called up an auto wrecker in Quebec. The French-English communication was dicey at best -- but I think I've just bought a spare ECM for $200 (CDN).

 

[geekdragon]

...and now I'm a little worried. Seems justifiable when they have my money, and I get an awkward call this morning asking where I found the computer. With a bit of language barrier, I thought he was asking where I looked up their catalog, or found out they had this part. Perhaps he was checking how I came up with the part number I needed.

Turns out he was trying to verify where the computer is physically located, in the car.

 

[TC4Tay]

hmm, hopefully they can remove it without damaging it.

 

[geekdragon]

I'll take note of any Sawzall marks. Or mangled connectors. Hopefully they'll just lop off the harnesses and send them along.

In the meantime, it occurs to me that if they never actually had it off the car, I'll be lucky if they even had it IDed correctly. They never actually came right out and said it was a Rally edition donor car, and the odd combo for a manual-trans with conventional key ignition (no push button) has it's own part number.

 

[geekdragon]

In a development that should surprise nobody, they sent a more common 391312BFK0 instead of the 391312BFK5 they reported.

I'm assuming the keyless ignition vs. conventional ignition makes this unusable, but if anyone familiar with tuning these knows different, it would save me some phone calls.

 

[geekdragon]

The guys at the salvage yard are giving me the gears, so I'll hold onto the mismatched spare ECU for now. The feedback I've gotten about compatibility is that it *might* be the same hardware, and *might* accept a flash with the programming from a car with a standard ignition key. Maybe. Still welcoming firmer details if someone has tried this before.

Worst case, if it ends up I can't use it, I may have a great deal for someone on a spare ECU for a 2016 VT with MT and push-button start.

 

[E9C900A]

Always have salvage yards either confirm the part number and/or send a picture of the actual item.

eBay seller fronts for salvage yards do this all the time.

 

[geekdragon]

Yep. Took my chances, because I doubted I'd see many of the correct ones, especially in Canada. Turns out I still haven't.

 

[geekdragon]

Less screwing around this time. I'm getting the correct computer from this donor car. Looks like most of a Rally Edition (with pretty tame front-right collision damage) is still up for grabs from Gagel's Auto Parts in Florida if anybody needs something.

As curious as I am about flashing the conventional key program on a smartkey ECU, I'm probably going to let the 391312BFK0 (2016 MT, smartkey) unit go. (edit: already sold it).

 

[geekdragon]

This looks more promising. The other one has already found a new home.

 

[geekdragon]

Well, I'm a glutton for punishment and/or retarded. The exact ratio is open for debate.

Contrary to the interchange information I've seen, and the glancing sideways look I took without actually removing my ECU, my Rally Edition is factory-equipped with part 39131-2BFK0. Not sure if this is unusual for Rally Editions. Maybe it's normal. Maybe it's a Canadian-sold car thing.

So this means the first spare ECU I bought was the correct part. This was even a lucky accident, because I was sent the "wrong" one. Yet in a spark of brilliance, rather than do a little hands-on fact checking, I sold that one in order to instead source a difficult-to-find Rally Edition ECU from the US -- which it turns out is technically wrong for my car. Sigh.

I guess I can take consolation that:
a) I was waiting for my tuning equipment anyways, and this hasn't caused extra delays.
b) The proceeds from my sale fully covered the cost of the second ECU.
c) I may have answered my original question about compatibility (the hard way). Obviously my Rally has a conventional ignition key, yet it uses the "smart key" ECU. Seems likely I'll be able to swap between them.