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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
So as some of you know, I ordered XXR 527s in 18x8.75et35 as well as some 215/35/18s.

I put them on last weekend and unfortunately couldn't roll without burning rubber/paint since I was full low on NGM coilovers (all locking rings and spring perches removed).



Maxed out on NGM Betamaxes^

The fronts were fine cambered all the way in but I'm sure all of you know we are super limited in the rear and pretty much can't adjust anything at all. I rolled around for a week with the rear spring perches and lock rings in (up about an inch to an inch and a half) and I would still rub under normal driving conditions.

Up in the rear but still too low to avoid rubbing-





I pulled the wheels off, put the stockers back on, and posted the XXRs on Craigslist. Full low again-



Then a light went off in my head, all the stars in the sky aligned, and I then realized it may be possible to camber the rear on our cars! I did tons and tons of Google research........and set out to make it happen.

I know it's not for everyone, completely unfunctional, and possibly unsafe but it's the look I and a few others here have been after for a while now. I gained about 10mm of clearance inside the fender which was just enough for me to go full low without having to worry about rubbing under normal driving conditions. I will still prob rub when I 3-wheel but no one is perfect, right?

I only have one side done but here it is-





I added roughly -2.75 degrees of camber. So with the stock -1.5 degrees of camber I'm running somewhere around -4.25 degrees overall.

I am going to finish my car up in the morning, take tons of pics, and maybe do a write up on Wednesday?
 

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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
Before I start the DIY I want to start with this:

I do not recommend you do this to your VT, NAV, whatever. You might break something, bend something, or worse. I am not responsible for what you do to your car. Take my method with a grain of salt. Just sharing my experience.


Now; if you still want to do this...go ahead. I did it and it worked. But I am in no way responsible for what you do to your car and any long term effects this may have. You may find a better way of doing certain steps or even the whole process. POST YOUR EXPERIENCES here if you do! I want to know how you approached everything and what you did to make it work.

Again; I am simply sharing my process with the Veloster community to open up the possibilities of fitment and stance when it comes to our crappy rear suspension. Independent rear suspension would have been nice. We can thank Hyundai for that.





Ok so here's what I needed to complete the job. You may have better tools or means of doing something similar to what I did. I'm a college kid at school with most of my tools at home an hour and a half away so I had to make do with what I had here-

-Rubber mallet
-12mm Socket with a 3/8" extension
-14mm wrench
-decent sized phillips head screw driver
-wire cutters
-a file of some sort (maybe)



-8 7/16" lock washers
-a hand full of 7/16" washers
-Red locktite



This might be obvious but...

-tire iron
-a jack
-2 jack stands (please use them)



And finally, Northstar rear alignment shims. I got mine from Pepboys. The part numbers can be seen below. If you are going to attempt this, get the black ones. I got the red because of how much negative camber I wanted to run. The biggest the black shims come in is 1 degree. I needed 1 1.25 degree shim and 1 1.5 degree shim and didn't want to stack 3 black shims to get the angle I wanted. You will have to modify the red shims to make them work if that's the route you choose. These are $9 per.

To figure out how much camber you need...

Rule of thumb-

On a 17" Wheel every degree of negative camber added to the suspension equates to 3.8 mm of Fender Clearance.

On a 18" Wheel every degree of negative camber added to the suspension equates to 4.0 mm of Fender Clearance.

On a 19" Wheel: Every degree of negative camber added to the suspension equates to 4.2mm of Fender Clearance.

On a 20" Wheel: Every degree of negative camber added to the suspension equates to 4.4mm of Fender Clearance.

Again, I used-

-2 red (or burgandy) 1.25 degree shims
-2 red (or burgandy) 1.5 degree shims






So now that you've got everything together, it's time to get to work.

Leave the car in gear, pull the e-brake, and with all four wheels still on the ground, break all the lug nuts loose on both rear wheels. Do not remove them yet!



Jack the car up. I use the middle of the torsion beam to jack up my Veloster. (Don't do this. Find another spot to use)....



I don't have to go very high because of my suspension travel (or lack of). Both rear wheels are off the ground here :p



Time to pull out your jack stands. I put mine right behind the upper spring perches. You may find a better spot (you probably will). It's hard for me to get my car high enough to get the jack stands in front of the rear wheels because of how low I sit. You shouldn't have a problem with it and you shouldn't have to get under the car for this so as long as the wheels are off the ground you should be fine. Let the jack down just enough so the car is sitting on the stands. I always leave the jack under the car as a last resort-

Left side-



Right side-



And both-



Take both wheels off and set them under the side skirts on each side. Obviously my car was too low for this but if you can do it; do it.



Pull out your phillips head screw driver and break these two screws loose. Do not remove them yet-



There are 4 14mm bolts on the back off the rear brake. I found it easiest to remove all of them, although you really only need to remove the 2 holding the carrier to the torsion beam. Sorry for the crappy pic but they aren't hard to find-



These bolts were pretty tight and it was a weird angle. I just beat the 14mm wrench with my rubber mallet to break them loose (this is all I used the rubber mallet for).



Release the e-brake lever and remove the rear brake. Don't mess with your e-brake lever after the rear brakes are taken off the car!-





Remove the 2 phillips head screws, remove the rotor, and set it aside-



There are 4 12mm bolts holding the hub on. Remove these with your 12mm socket and 3/8" extension (again, I used the rubber mallet to break these loose. I don't recommend this) and remove the rear hub-









This is where your shim/s will go, between the rear hub and torsion beam-



Figure out which way is up (unless you want positive camber........) and put your shim/s in place You can get alignment specs from a shop and get your toe perfect with these if you'd like-





Like I said earlier, the red shims had to be modified to fit. The inside diameter of the shim smaller than the outside diameter of the hub which is where the file comes in. The black shims should be the correct size and filing won't be necessary-





If you are stacking (which I do not recommend), orient the shims. The notch is the thinnest part of the shim. You'll have to think a little bit here but depending on how low you are you might want to shift the shim/s to attempt to correct the toe. I shifted the top shim one notch. I should have went two notches.-



Mark where the bolts and the two pins will be and remove the tabs with the wire cutters or an exacto knife. Be very careful with this. I cracked 3 out of the 4 shims I used. They will break!-



 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)


You might have to mess with the shim/s to get them to fit properly. Break out the file and make it work. With the shim/s on the hub, put it back onto the torsion beam-



Pull out the locktite, put a generous amount on each 12mm bolt along with a locking washer and reinstall the bolts. Tighten them up!-





Re-install the rotor with the 2 phillips head screws-



Re-install the brake but leave out the bottom carrier bolt! (this is important)-



We need the brake pads to match the angle of the rotor. This is where the washers come into play. I needed 3 washers for -2.75 degrees of camber. If your angle is different, you will have to figure out how many washers you need-



Put locktite on this bolt and tighten it up with the washers in place-





If you spaced it out correctly, you should be able to spin the hub. If you can't, try different spacing. Trial and error!

Do the other side now. After the brakes are reinstalled, pull the e-brake lever, and tighten down the 4 screws holding on the rotors. Put your wheels back on, let your car down, and take a step back and enjoy your new found clearance!











If you do this, take everything apart the next dayTighten everything down if it can be tightened anymore. The shims are plastic can can give a little bit. Just check everything.

If you would like more detail in any part of this, please let me know and I'll do my best.

Goodluck!
 

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Bro this is some awesome interesting shit!!!!! Please do a write up! I will determine for my self if this safe for me or not. All others who do not like this look can suck it lol just don't post here. We know not everyone likes this look or style. But some do.

If this works out this changes everything! Damn awesome I can not wait . Thank you so much for keeping me updated man!
 

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lol it's been done before....just not on a veloster!

and i've gotten a little crap for posting here without a VT. Kinda lame but whatever
I never seen that before. Please preach to my lol

Also you are right about the whole vt to nav. I know why you are here more than the *****. They are dead over there. This is where the cool people hang. They shouldn't hate on you though. I don't even have a nav or a vt lol they should be hating on me. I think it is cool you are here chilling with us lol most will accept you. We are sharks. As long as you are not a frs/brz owner I think you be ok lol.

Ps ever thought about trading up? Is it just not worth it right now?
 

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I am trying not get my hopes up though. If it isn't safe or your nav falls apart on you I am back to the old drawing board.

Please post all your research too. Thank you. How lucky are you being the first to do this lol cool
 

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I'm not hatin'. I dig your look because it's similar to mine. Just more cambered than I like to run. I think your setup is tasteful :)
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I never seen that before. Please preach to my lol

Also you are right about the whole vt to nav. I know why you are here more than the *****. They are dead over there. This is where the cool people hang. They shouldn't hate on you though. I don't even have a nav or a vt lol they should be hating on me. I think it is cool you are here chilling with us lol most will accept you. We are sharks. As long as you are not a frs/brz owner I think you be ok lol.

Ps ever thought about trading up? Is it just not worth it right now?
Just not worth it IMO. I'm super happy with my NAV and just hop on my bike when I wanna go fast. If I was thinking long term; it'd probably be worth the trade up. But depending on where I'm at when I graduate, I'll either pick up an s2k to boost or find a 06ish Lotus Elise to mess with so the Veloster definitely won't be a priority for long.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I am trying not get my hopes up though. If it isn't safe or your nav falls apart on you I am back to the old drawing board.

Please post all your research too. Thank you. How lucky are you being the first to do this lol cool
In my mind, I see it working long term. I'm going to lock everything down in the morning.

I'm not hatin'. I dig your look because it's similar to mine. Just more cambered than I like to run. I think your setup is tasteful :)
thanks brotha

Shit I just want 2.5-3
This is definitely possible.
 

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Just not worth it IMO. I'm super happy with my NAV and just hop on my bike when I wanna go fast. If I was thinking long term; it'd probably be worth the trade up. But depending on where I'm at when I graduate, I'll either pick up an s2k to boost or find a 06ish Lotus Elise to mess with so the Veloster definitely won't be a priority for long.
Oh yeah? What's your major?

In my mind, I see it working long term. I'm going to lock everything down in the morning.



thanks brotha



This is definitely possible.
Please take pictures and be real vivid with everything lol I am locked on this thread. :p
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Oh yeah? What's your major?

Please take pictures and be real vivid with everything lol I am locked on this thread. :p
Industrial Design. Hope to eventually end up in the auto/motorcycle industry designing something.

I told you from the beginning I was going to be super open about everything since everyone else goes hush about their setups :)

lol well thats stupid, it essentially the same car just without a turbo. youre doing great things bro
Thanks man.

I sort of rigged some things up to get it to where it is now (safely IMO) but I do have access to 2 CNC machines. If there's enough demand I can look into machining a few different angles out of aluminum.
 
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