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Discussion Starter #1
Hello,

Just got this bad boy yesterday and I'm hoping to install it soon. WhatsApp Image 2017-02-05 at 11.26.59 AM.jpeg
Thing is that I saw people installing it by drilling through the corner under the battery to make a pass-through for the wires. Isn't there any other way that does not involve drilling?
Got my boost gauge for 50$, better make use of it.

I found a thread in which someone mounted his boost gauge without drilling through the cabin, saying that he will post how he did it, but he ended up not posting anything. :(
 

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Theres a grommet on the fire wall where the wiring harness enters the cabin. Best option imo is to go through that. You can either put a hole in it or unwrap the tape on the harness like I did then reseal it
 

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Agreed. I punched a small hole through with a piece of coat hanger, and taped on the wires to push them through. The entry point it a bit difficult to reach in the engine bay, but not terrible.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Theres a grommet on the fire wall where the wiring harness enters the cabin. Best option imo is to go through that. You can either put a hole in it or unwrap the tape on the harness like I did then reseal it
Unwrap the tape on the harness? I did not understand that part quite well, mind explaining?

Thank you for your reply.
 

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Agreed. I punched a small hole through with a piece of coat hanger, and taped on the wires to push them through. The entry point it a bit difficult to reach in the engine bay, but not terrible.
Thanks for replying.
Okay then, I will put a hole there and pass through the wires. I heard that you also need a T adapter for the wires, is that true? Because it's hard to find this part in my area, I'll have to look thoroughly for places that sell these.
 

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You may be thinking of a "tee" to get your vacuum/boost source, similar to the first picture in this thread. I used this method for my boost gauge, though it is generally frowned upon for a couple of reasons. One is that it may cause performance /CEL problems by leeching pressure from the evap system purge valve -- though you'll probably be fine if you have a electronic boost sensor located nearby with a short run of hose and no leaks. The other issue is that there are other tidy and profession solutions available.

The wiring situation may take a bit of improvising depending on what you have to work with. I'm assuming that's an electronic boost gauge, so you'll need to get the sensor wire through the firewall grommet. You'll also need to tap fuses for constant, ignition, and dimmer power sources. I used the locations shown here, with proper mini "add-a-circuit" fuse taps. My end result looked like this, except I turned each one over 180 degrees when it was pointed out I had them upside down (and they were unprotected in that orientation).
 

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Discussion Starter #7
You may be thinking of a "tee" to get your vacuum/boost source, similar to the first picture in this thread. I used this method for my boost gauge, though it is generally frowned upon for a couple of reasons. One is that it may cause performance /CEL problems by leeching pressure from the evap system purge valve -- though you'll probably be fine if you have a electronic boost sensor located nearby with a short run of hose and no leaks. The other issue is that there are other tidy and profession solutions available.

The wiring situation may take a bit of improvising depending on what you have to work with. I'm assuming that's an electronic boost gauge, so you'll need to get the sensor wire through the firewall grommet. You'll also need to tap fuses for constant, ignition, and dimmer power sources. I used the locations shown here, with proper mini "add-a-circuit" fuse taps. My end result looked like this, except I turned each one over 180 degrees when it was pointed out I had them upside down (and they were unprotected in that orientation).
CEL is a big issue in my case because my car is still under warranty, so I don't want to risk getting it void. Thanks anyway dude!
 

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CEL is a big issue in my case because my car is still under warranty, so I don't want to risk getting it void. Thanks anyway dude!
Mine is under warranty too, so I get it. I've personally never had a CEL -- but that alone wouldn't be the problem for a warranty claim. Codes are easy to clear (with a $10 code reader and a smartphone), and equipment easy to put stock again. They'd be more likely to make up some excuse to deny warranty if they spot an aftermarket gauge, user-installed wiring, and an extra sensor strapped somewhere in the engine bay.

Warranty claims are a contentious issue. Some folks have heavily modded cars and no problems. Others get accused of abusing their completely stock cars. Your mileage may vary.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
CEL is a big issue in my case because my car is still under warranty, so I don't want to risk getting it void. Thanks anyway dude!
Mine is under warranty too, so I get it. I've personally never had a CEL -- but that alone wouldn't be the problem for a warranty claim. Codes are easy to clear (with a $10 code reader and a smartphone), and equipment easy to put stock again. They'd be more likely to make up some excuse to deny warranty if they spot an aftermarket gauge, user-installed wiring, and an extra sensor strapped somewhere in the engine bay.

Warranty claims are a contentious issue. Some folks have heavily modded cars and no problems. Others get accused of abusing their completely stock cars. Your mileage may vary.
Yep I was worried about having them make up an excuse to void it just cause they saw some wires. So I'll give them a call first about the boost gauge installation. I've asked them in the past and they were okay with a muffler delete. I hope it's okay, if not I'll have to keep the gauge away and wait 'til the warranty is over. :/
 

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Discussion Starter #11
A dedicated boost gauge is not going to void your warranty. Stop being ridiculous.
Well that's why I'm gonna have to ask them.. Dealer sees a CEL and they instantly void my warranty. Some dealerships like to screw around, even if there was no CEL-- if they just saw some wires under the hood they would probably want to void my warranty so I'd rather not take that chance.
 

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Mount it on your hood and no need to drill or go thru firewall

9.jpg
 

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I respect your concerns about warranty, though I agree you're being overcautious. Why buy a gauge in the first place? Were you expecting it to be plug-and-play? Wireless?

For what it's worth, I think a clean gauge installation done with reasonable care is a wonderful addition to this car. This is my setup with a JCS pod. I could have the car stock again in 10 minutes.
IMG_20161005_164120.jpg
 

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Another easy way to run the wiring is to use the gaps in the door and hood. While I don't like this method I did it for some heat testing on another car and it worked great. All you'd have to drill is a small hole in the base of the weather moulding. Then just run the wire under the black separator between the door and the hood and into the engine bay.
20170206_203227.jpg
20170206_203248.jpg
 

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I respect your concerns about warranty, though I agree you're being overcautious. Why buy a gauge in the first place? Were you expecting it to be plug-and-play? Wireless?

For what it's worth, I think a clean gauge installation done with reasonable care is a wonderful addition to this car. This is my setup with a JCS pod. I could have the car stock again in 10 minutes.
View attachment 72409
Those match the factory gauges very well. Nice work.
 

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Those match the factory gauges very well. Nice work.
Thanks. I''m still very pleased with the setup. The only quirk is that about 1 in 5 times when I turn on the ignition, the boost gauge initializes about a half-second after the volt gauge. Weird, but barely annoying.
 

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flareon where did you get your gauge ? do they sell different ones
Guessing you mean the ones in my pic Flareon commented on.

They're made by Defi, and are part of the 'racer' series, which comes in lots of sensors and colors. They also have lots of other styles, but many of them require linking to a special control module. (The Racer series are standalone guages).

I got the boost guage used from another forum member, and the volt gauge on eBay.

Pillar pod is by JCS pods.
 
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