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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I've had my HIDs for about 7 weeks now and haven't had a problem until the past couple days. In the morning when starting my car, my HID would flicker very slightly and I would have static in the radio. Popped the hood and listened around, felt the relay and it felt like there were 100 bees inside the relay box. Buzzing and vibration.

After doing some research online, I found it's because our VTs use a pulse width modulation in order to prolong life of the stock bulbs. This causes the relay to go on and off constantly due to voltage change. A 470µF 35V capacitor from Radio Shack installed on the relay harness should fix this. It's currently $1.39 USD.

After more digging online, I found a DIY with photos. Seems like an easy fix and this person didn't have to solder the connections.

HID Fog installed tonight in the fog... - Page 3
 

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Was talking with DD about my hid kit that i bought from them, and it was the 2nd time that they have heard of this happening.
The first was a Chevy Volt owner, and I am the second one. Seriously sounds like a 100 bees though, rattling around in there.
Funny thing is though, it only buzzes when the car is running with the headlights on, NOT when the lights are on ON and the car is not running.
 

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Was talking with DD about my hid kit that i bought from them, and it was the 2nd time that they have heard of this happening.
The first was a Chevy Volt owner, and I am the second one. Seriously sounds like a 100 bees though, rattling around in there.
Funny thing is though, it only buzzes when the car is running with the headlights on, NOT when the lights are on ON and the car is not running.
Make the problem doesn't causes over heating issues to the ballast. Touch the ballast and check its not super burning hot because it'll damage the ballast.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Was talking with DD about my hid kit that i bought from them, and it was the 2nd time that they have heard of this happening.
The first was a Chevy Volt owner, and I am the second one. Seriously sounds like a 100 bees though, rattling around in there.
Funny thing is though, it only buzzes when the car is running with the headlights on, NOT when the lights are on ON and the car is not running.
Ok an update here.

So I put a capacitor in, flip the car on and then the lights wouldn't even come on. I figured I had the polarity backwards so I turned the car off, d/c the battery and turned the capacitor over. After a few seconds I hear a pop/fizz lol... capacitor blew up. So I put another one in the next day and still same problem. Lights won't come on with capacitor installed. So I took out the capacitor, tried to turn on the lights and freaked out that the lights still wouldn't come on even after removing the capacitor.

But then, after a while my lights come back on like nothing happened and now they work fine.

I'm using a Diode Dynamics HID kit with their relay harness. Not sure what the issue is. I can probably deal with the buzzing since it's only in the morning and seems to only last a couple mins... but I'd really like to get this issue solved.
 

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We have narrowed the issue down to a pulse signal that the vehicle uses for the headlights in order to increase factory bulb lifespan. Very similar to the way DRLs work. The buzzing is the relay clicking on and off a couple hundred times a minute. We just sent a larger plug-and-play capacitor to another customer with the issue, and are waiting for him to report back as to whether or not that solves it. If so, we can provide them to customers who are having issues for a very discounted price. I'm sorry we were not aware of this issue.

-Paul
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
We have narrowed the issue down to a pulse signal that the vehicle uses for the headlights in order to increase factory bulb lifespan. Very similar to the way DRLs work. The buzzing is the relay clicking on and off a couple hundred times a minute. We just sent a larger plug-and-play capacitor to another customer with the issue, and are waiting for him to report back as to whether or not that solves it. If so, we can provide them to customers who are having issues for a very discounted price. I'm sorry we were not aware of this issue.

-Paul

Thanks Paul, can't wait! I appreciate Diode Dynamics for investigating the issue!
 

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Yes, that's exactly what they look like.
I just got back from CO, so I haven't had a chance yet to test everything out. I did however swap in the "Warning Cancellers" into my existing wiring harness w/o a positive result. The relay was still buzzing, making noise. I will try again to plug them in at a different location as well as trying a different "universal" wiring harness.
I'm keeping my fingers crossed because it's just an awful noise, not to mention embarrassing when others are around the car.
I will report back after this weekend when I've had a chance to work on it.
 

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Did you try changing the relay? I had 2 relays after having some issues with my kit I tried a relay I had lying around and it would buzz like crazy but when I swapped it out the buzzing stopped.
They sent me relay warning cancelers, but not a new relay. I'm curious....
We'll see and will keep posting as it goes on.
 

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Okay, I changed out the relay on mine to a Potter & Brumfield relay and it was still buzzing. I changed it out to a Bosche and I thought it stopped, but it was just clicking very faint and fast that it sounded almost continuous.

After a bit of reading, I realize that our Veloster PWM (Pulse width modulate) the low beam, which means it turns it on/off VERY quickly to extend the life of the halogen bulb. It flashes very fast so you dont actually see it.

The capacitor will hold the charge, and smooth out the power so it stays constant.

I put in a 470uF 18v capacitor and popped within a minute of putting it in. It worked though. That mean the capacitor value is too small or my voltage was too small. Eitherway, from researching online, DDM actually have a "capacitor harness" that they sells for $10. I've seen people pull them apart, and inside is just a diode and a capacitor, rating is 4700uF 35V 105C. They go for about $1.79 for two on Ebay. You only need one. Ofcourse, order it on ebay means a months wait until it come in.

I luckily have a few 4700uF 35V I savaged from electrical parts, probably power supply or something. I popped one of those in, and so far, it's been working smoothly.

Will take picture and post back later.
 
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