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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
2013 VT/AT, 84K miles
Intake, Catback, dual OCC, altered throttle body, res delete,

No codes

Just like the title says, I've got a pretty wicked hissing sound that comes on under boost, sounds almost exactly like if you had a boost leak at the resonator. The confusing part to me is that I'm still getting boost at this point, topping off at a steady 5-6 psi (way lower than my current cap of about 13-15).

I can't find any boost leaks at all and every connection seems solid. Issue came on randomly while driving and not immediately after any modification, the last time I had messed with the intake piping post-turbo, after I had put it back together I was able to hit my max psi consistently. Haven't messed with the turbo piping since.

My current guess right now is that it's to do with my wastegate solenoid, since these symptoms match exactly the issue I was having when I was messing around with a wastegate solenoid bypass (dumb idea, I know). However, the solenoid appears to actuate just fine when I feed it 12v. I'll double check that air properly exits the lines it's supposed to when it's activated, but air runs from the turbo line to the wastegate line when there's no power to the solenoid.

Last time I messed with this solenoid, I did end up breaking the wastegate hose nipple off and plastic welding it back on, which worked fine for a couple months. When I was testing it just now by blowing into it, there appeared to be a little leakage into the atmosphere from this weld, but not substantial. Fixing it atm and will update if that works. Yes, I'd like to get a new solenoid altogether, but money's tight. ¯\(ツ)

Any suggestions for what else it might be if this falls through? Can the solenoid be bad and still actuate fine when exposed to 12v? Any other suggestions?
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Reinstalled solenoid, boost travels from turbo to wastegate as it should with no leaks when solenoid is unpowered. Forgot to check whether it VTAs properly when powered, will double check that in a little bit.

Wastegate actuator arm moves when exposed to boost through the solenoid, tested with my emergency tire inflator tool since I don't have an air compressor handy. Best I could manage is MAYBE 5psi with a lot of leakage, and even that got the arm to begin movement. Doesn't appear to be stuck at all.

Going to double check my hot and cold pipe again as well as the VTA part of the solenoid like I said. Might have to go for the soapy water test if that all fails.
 

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2015 auto VT, 2013 manual VT × 2
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Boost leak test the car. Dealt with a few cars recently that did this and was boost leak or solenoid issue.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Like with soapy water, or is there another method I'm not aware of? I'd do it with a smoke machine and air compressor if I had access to either.

Sidenote, broke off a throttle body bolt inside of the intake manifold. Anyone have a source for the metal threading piece the bolt mates with so I don't need to replace the entire intake manifold? Bolt extractor failed pretty spectacularly.
 

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2015 auto VT, 2013 manual VT × 2
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Soapy water or smoke with say 30 psi may show something.

Replace the entire manifold. Less Uggl Dugga on the bolts next time.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Believe me, I tried. Both bolt extractors failed (I moved to a larger size when the smaller one broke), and when the larger one broke off, it chipped into the metal sleeve on the intake manifold.

Whether it was the tool's fault or mine, doesn't change the fact that it's irreparable now. I'm going to have to pull the intake manifold anyway to double check that when I deleted the hose that originally ran to the PCV valve, the cap I replaced it with didn't come off. When I pull it, I'll probably try and replace that metal insert with a rivnut (money IS an object, ok?). Hopefully I won't have to replace the entire manifold.
 

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I understand completely. You could try using time serts for thread repair. I find them superior to thread coils. They are not much larger in diameter than the original size. Cheaper than replacing the manifold, but still on the pricey side for thread repair. I use them in my engine rebuilds all the time.
 

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Can get a manifold reasonably priced.
 

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Sure could
 

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Um, 100% yes
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
So, uh, naturally, fixing this fixed the issue.

Goes to show you it's always worth double checking your work and not half-assing anything. This rip wasn't immediately visible where it was mounted and it was only once I fully removed it and held it out in the light that I found it. /shrug
 

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Good you fixed the issue
 
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