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So after some searching around, and 2,000+ miles of looking like an idiot driving a brand new Korean bucket of bolts, I tried unplugging the upper clutch switch and driving around. That was lame. So I tried unplugging the lower one, too. Car wouldn't start, of course. So I tried plugging in the bottom one and installing a jumper into the connector for the top one. Still lame. So I decided I might actually have to do a little work this morning.

Before I left home for work, I pulled the upper switch, ran it through its range of motion on my meter, marked the point at which it changes state, and reinstalled it at so that it's just barely past that point when the pedal is up. The lower one I simply adjusted to about the same spot, plus a little more - close to half way with the pedal all the way down. I discovered that on the upper switch, many times, when the plunger is pushed all the way in, it actually goes back to reading OC, like with the plunger out. It read OC until about 35% in, then changed to CC, then just before hitting the end of the travel, went OC again. Crazy! Cheap piece of junk. I did not test the lower switch, as I didn't feel like removing it - it's more difficult.

Anyway, now that they are adjusted, and I have had a day to relearn how to drive the whole car, it's amazing! It's almost like driving a real car! It still does that auto rev thing in first, assuming every time that the driver is a complete dipstick and has never driven a car before. But other than that, shifting is worlds better, the rev hang is basically gone at all times, and the car just runs and drives a lot better. It did take me all of the drive to work and most of the return drive to figure out how not to buck every shift. The little rev up starting off in first is also easier to manage, noticeably so. And now, when I rev it up to 4k or 5k, the revs actually come back down. Makes me think that the flywheel might actually not weigh 1,000 lb.

So, summary: It's free, only requires fingers, a drop light or flashlight, a 14mm combination wrench, and about 30 minutes if you go the extra mile and meter out the switches.
 

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Ummm I don't follow what you did. You basically did the clutch switch mod without unplugging the switch? Does cruise control still work? What about the useless shift indicator?
 

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subbed and thanks for asking that question cause Im lost too.

I get that OC = Open circuit and CC is closed circuit but the switch reads oc then cc then back to oc all in the same direction? wonder if thats some of the programming that it needs to see to make the ECU act all stupid.
 

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He's saying that (possibly) his and maybe our upper clutch switches are messed up and (maybe) that's why unplugging it makes such a difference.
Common sense would assume that without the plunger pushed would lead to an open circuit, and a pushed plunger would lead to a closed circuit.
What his (and possibly some of ours) are doing is that once you bury the plunger all the way into its housing, it goes open circuit again. If you could imagine pushing a light switch "too far" into the on position and the light goes off again this is what he's talking about.

I'll check mine over this coming weekend when Its worth it to turn the garage heater on. :p Too damn cold to want to work out there without the heater, but I'm also not going to heat up a garage with a heater just for 30 minutes of work. I have some stuff to do to the winter beater cavalier this weekend, so I'll squeeze the VT in there too.
 

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He's saying that (possibly) his and maybe our upper clutch switches are messed up and (maybe) that's why unplugging it makes such a difference.
Common sense would assume that without the plunger pushed would lead to an open circuit, and a pushed plunger would lead to a closed circuit.
What his (and possibly some of ours) are doing is that once you bury the plunger all the way into its housing, it goes open circuit again. If you could imagine pushing a light switch "too far" into the on position and the light goes off again this is what he's talking about.
I too think this is what he is saying is happening. With the development engines at work, we often have to calibrate the throttle. If you apply too much voltage, it goes from 100% to a lower value (sometimes even 0%).
 

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Hey Op care to chime in? We are all standing here shrugging our shoulders, scratching our heads trying to figure out what u mean.
 

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Whoa...

& your not tuning cars because.............................................................
 

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I just sent him a PM hopefully he answers
 

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That's weird he took the time to post something so interesting like this but then never came back to clear up any questions..
 

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He prolly actually does work. Unlike us who surf the forums all day long on tapatalk lol
 

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Hey im working right now in uniform and all!!!
 
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Ya me too. Lol.
 

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^^^Yeah but it takes a little while to get used to working this site...Most nobs don't know how to search & just start firing questions...I know I did :sorry:
 
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