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Discussion Starter #1
I have a couple $$ to spent and i was wondering what was the best mods i could Do to make my 2013 VT has reliable has possible..
 

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Depends how much money you actually want to spend. These would be a good start. Let sxth know your primary concern is reliability. Not sure if they would update the tune a bit or not but worth asking.
Colder spark plugs
sxth oem+ tune
 

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You could get the intake manifold removed and see if a catch can will help. Some engines run pretty clean. Mine did not really need it even with a basic tune.

Here are mine and they were fine, I had them walnut blasted anyway since they were in there.

If they are already dirty you can get it clean and then put a catch can on. If it does not need it, probably not worth it.

Before:



After:

 

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2015 auto VT, 2013 manual VT × 2
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Good maintenance and a better than oem tune
 

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Discussion Starter #6
And with good maintenance and carbone clean, with a good tune, how Many miles should i expect too be reliable? Im at 50kmiles
 

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Really depends on current engine health, how good prior maintenance has been, and how things go from here on out. A 13 VT near me that has come to me for many years now for everything is coming up on 200k miles soon.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
My engine have 170psi of compression.. carbon cleaning was done a month ago, fresh synthetic oil, fresh coils.. im gonna Buy m45xl for the Sixth tune.. what are the best maintenance i can Do/ keep going
 

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Be sure proper oem coils every 50k miles max, those plugs every 50k miles max and maintain. 024" gaps on them, proper oil and oem filter every 3k miles max, 91+ octane fuel, aftermarketfuel line. Do a dual breather hose VTA or good can setup for both sides.. Those will be the most crucial things.
 

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Be sure proper oem coils every 50k miles max, those plugs every 50k miles max and maintain. 024" gaps on them, proper oil and oem filter every 3k miles max, 91+ octane fuel, aftermarketfuel line. Do a dual breather hose VTA or good can setup for both sides.. Those will be the most crucial things.
I think you're being a little drastic with the oil change at 3k and ignition coil replacement at 50k. But I can echo the rest. I would replace the coils at 100k. As for the oil, those Canadian summers are not going to put much stress on a good synthetic oil these days. Heat is the worst thing for oil so if you're just highway cruising and not drag racing you can safely go 5k. I would also recommend an magnetic oil drain plug; cheap and potentially a life saver.
 

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Reason for 3k mile max oil change is due to dilution of the oil with fuel which degrades the oil. Some oils will fare better than others from dilution and driving style and engine condition will play big roles on how bad it can be.

Carbon buildup in the engine can also occur easier with some oils especially with high fuel dilution from longer oil change intervals.

Long OCI also increases risk of knock, knock retard, and LSPI. Not good for the engine.

Magnetic drain plug is a good idea. So is cleaning the oil pan out of all the metal flake and powder. Also good idea to not run the car hard on colder oil as that's when most engine damage occurs by not being filtered.

Heat and fuel dilution are both bad for oil and the engine. I see higher oil temperatures on the highway than I do at the dragstrip by far. Now agressive driving continuously will cause higher oil temperatures if you do not account for that with proper cooling.

Most coils I see fail are in the 50k-70k area. Rarely do they fail above that in cars that I work on. Thus I recommend preventative maintenance on a $200 set of coils to not have an issue vs waiting and it potentially cost thousands.

Keep in mind I hold records for the car, make mods for them, work on them every day, tune them, and have not damaged an engine yet for 6 years now. All of the above and more are reasons why I never experience major issues or engine damage but other vendors and the avg Joe does.
 

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Reason for 3k mile max oil change is due to dilution of the oil with fuel which degrades the oil. Some oils will fare better than others from dilution and driving style and engine condition will play big roles on how bad it can be.

Carbon buildup in the engine can also occur easier with some oils especially with high fuel dilution from longer oil change intervals.

Long OCI also increases risk of knock, knock retard, and LSPI. Not good for the engine.
I can understand you making sure there is no doubt about the oils performance by changing it so regularly. But, I'm willing to state that it would be extremely rare for fuel dilution to have such a large impact on the viscosity of the oil to the point that it would be detrimental for the engine to wait for 5k OCI; especially considering the climate in Canada. Unless this was already a known problem with these cars and more specifically this individuals engine.

Heat and fuel dilution are both bad for oil and the engine. I see higher oil temperatures on the highway than I do at the dragstrip by far. Now agressive driving continuously will cause higher oil temperatures if you do not account for that with proper cooling.
Yes, absolutely. Maybe a drag strip could be an issue if you were to turn the car off too soon and let the oil sit in that hot turbo just after a run.

Most coils I see fail are in the 50k-70k area. Rarely do they fail above that in cars that I work on. Thus I recommend preventative maintenance on a $200 set of coils to not have an issue vs waiting and it potentially cost thousands.
I am genuinely surprised to hear the rate of coil failures you see. It is generally considered a 100k part and my personal vehicle has had the originals for that and a little change (with no problems; touch wood).
 

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Do enough VOA and UOA and the fuel dilution and oil breakdown will easily be seen. Not all oils are created equal. Driving style, engine condition, fuel used, and tune in the car are all major factors here as well.

Hot oil in the turbo is not an issue in these cars due to being cooled by the engine coolant as well which dissipates heat even after the car is turned off.

Yes some do make it longer on coil life and should be considered lucky. Those are usually ones that the coils see less heat or stress. When they fail it can be catastrophic engine damage that will cost $2k + in most cases so better if you spend the extra $200 to replace them before they fail.
 

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Do enough VOA and UOA and the fuel dilution and oil breakdown will easily be seen. Not all oils are created equal. Driving style, engine condition, fuel used, and tune in the car are all major factors here as well.

Hot oil in the turbo is not an issue in these cars due to being cooled by the engine coolant as well which dissipates heat even after the car is turned off.

Yes some do make it longer on coil life and should be considered lucky. Those are usually ones that the coils see less heat or stress. When they fail it can be catastrophic engine damage that will cost $2k + in most cases so better if you spend the extra $200 to replace them before they fail.
Do you have a link to the coils? I think I want to go ahead and do mine.
 

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Sorry forgot to add that; I have a 2015 turbo
From SCgarageworks

"*2015 Owners some of the cars made had 2 pronge Coil Packs. You must check your coil packs before ordering. If your coil packs have a 2 pronge then you need to order 2012-2014. If you have 4 pronge then you need to order 2015+. If you order the wrong ones we will not allow you to return them. "

You might need VIN confirmation, or to look yourself, or to contact a reseller.

2012-2017 Hyundai Veloster/Veloster Turbo OEM COIL ASSEMBLY-IGNITION Pack of 4 – SoCal Garage Works (scgarageworks.com)

OEM Ignition Coil – Tork Motorsports
 

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Albert Hwang on FB. They should be around $200/set shipped from korea. You will need part ending in 2B110 if you have the 15 VT.
 
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