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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
1. Raise the vehicle off the ground. Removing the front wheels is not necessary but it may be helpful for you.
2. Once the vehicle is off the ground, remove the end-links from the end of the sway bar.
3. Remove the exhaust hanger from the rear of the downpipe, be sure to take the rubber mount all the way off.
4. Loosen and remove the bolt that holds the lower mount to the transmission.
6. Place a Jack underneath the cross-member and remove the 2 front nuts, 2 larger rear bolts and the 2 smaller rear bolts that hold the cross-member to the body.
7. Slowly lower the jack a few inches.
8. there are 2 nuts and 2 bolts that mount the sway bar to the cross-member, you will need to remove these before you unbolt the steering rack.
9. Once you have unbolted the sway bar, you can then begin loosening the 4 bolts that hold the steering rack to the cross-member.
10. Once the steering rack is unbolted from the cross-member, you can lower the cross-member a few more inches.
11. Lift the steering rack up with your hands and pull the sway bar out towards the rear of the vehicle. Be careful of the swaybar mounting brackets falling on your face.
12. Take the bushings that were included with the new sway bar and apply half of the included bushing grease to the inside of the bushing where the bar will make contact.
13. spread the bushings apart and place the bar into them. Be sure to push the bushing to the outside, making sure that the ring on the sway bar is on the outside edge of the bushings.
14. Insert the sway bar back under the steering rack and push it forward.
15. Raise the cross-member a little but so that you can bolt the steering rack back to the cross-member.
16. Once the steering rack is attached to the cross-member, you can place the sway bar mounting brackets over the new bushings. You will need to get the nut into place first and tighten that a little bit before you can get the rear bolt into place and then tighten the nuts and bolts down.
17. Raise the cross-member back up into place and re-install the cross-member nuts and bolts.
18. Insert the lower mount bolt back into the mount and tighten. You can then remove the floor jack.
19. Put the exhaust mount back onto the downpipe hangers.
20. Re-install the end-links into the forward most bolt holes on the sway bar. This will be the softest setting and is recommended to learn how the car feels.
21. Put the wheels back on if you removed them and lower the vehicle.
22. Find some twisty roads to enjoy the sway bar.

Here is the video. Thanks to Mackv

Front suspension torque specs.PNG
 

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Thanks Matty. Wish I had this when my bar was installed.
 
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Just finished up Miranda's---I'd recommend pulling the wheels-makes it easier to get to swaybar brackets and power steering rack mounting bolts. Use a u-joint on the drivers side rear powersteering rack bolt---it's tight, but makes it sooooo much easier. With the rack loosened the crossmember will come down really far----much more than you need to slide the bar out so have the jack ready (stand if your on the lift). It should take a shop between 1.5-2hrs to do this---a guy on his back on stands probably 2 hours. I think we can do them now in around an hour after having done a few. Also the endlinks fit tight into the swaybar holes---so they have to be lined up right to slide in---two people helping thought we'd have to remove some powder coating so I can see someone thinking the same...I just drove Miranda's car---it's amazing!
 

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YOUUUUUU....I should close and delete this thread. I get home and see matty made a DIY. I was like OH HELL YEAH! Pictures!!! and I get words...

lol just kidding. so glad this has a DIY for sure. Looks VERY detailed. that is what we need.
 

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Just finished up Miranda's---I'd recommend pulling the wheels-makes it easier to get to swaybar brackets and power steering rack mounting bolts. Use a u-joint on the drivers side rear powersteering rack bolt---it's tight, but makes it sooooo much easier. With the rack loosened the crossmember will come down really far----much more than you need to slide the bar out so have the jack ready (stand if your on the lift). It should take a shop between 1.5-2hrs to do this---a guy on his back on stands probably 2 hours. I think we can do them now in around an hour after having done a few. Also the endlinks fit tight into the swaybar holes---so they have to be lined up right to slide in---two people helping thought we'd have to remove some powder coating so I can see someone thinking the same...I just drove Miranda's car---it's amazing!

Can confirm this.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
YOUUUUUU....I should close and delete this thread. I get home and see matty made a DIY. I was like OH HELL YEAH! Pictures!!! and I get words...

lol just kidding. so glad this has a DIY for sure. Looks VERY detailed. that is what we need.
I got home late and didn't want to postpone the how to. Some images will be uploaded tonight with bolt locations. Video will be available when Zach is done
 

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I opt to skip step 21. Wheels are overrated.

Seriously I can't wait to do this. Hoping I can get some lift time next Friday, assuming the bar is delivered by then.
 

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GOPR0388.JPG

Teaser...
 
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Here is the video before Matt updates the post:

 

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Okay, maybe I'm missing something but I cannot, for the life of me, get the cradle down low enough to get to the bolts on the driver's side for the steering rack...I've tried everything...what am I missing? I can get a socket on it with a swivel but the angle of the socket means I can't put any torque on it to turn it. The bolts are in there snug so I need some leverage. I haven't even tried getting to the front bolt on the driver's side. Passenger side I'm golden but this driver's side is making me mental!
 

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Discussion Starter #18 (Edited)
I do not recall using a swivel. We had very little room to move the ratchet as well. I think I ended up using a 1/4 inch drive just so I could get my hands up there. @whiteboy has had to replace a few broken mounting brackets, maybe he can shed more light on this.3

Dang! I'll probably just pay to have my front sway bar and down pipe installed.
I will admit, it is much easier to install on a lift, but it is still a pain in the ass.


Damn I just realized I never added the torque specs. Updated the first post with torque specs.
 

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I need to get a 1/4 inch drive 17 mm deep well for that don't i? I don't see the room for much else.

Getting to the mounting brackets for the bar was tough but not too bad...the rack bolts are where i'm hung up and are far harder...
 
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