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Discussion Starter #21
The only reason I haven't been posting logs is because most people can't open them because they don't use HP Tuners. NGK plugs are used by OEMs so are Bosche. Hell the ecu is freakin Bosche. Coils are are very simple in design and most people are probably killing them because of the engine cover overheating them. The engine cover is only there to silence the hpfp and prevent people from burning themselves. Anyways I'll post some logs soon when I'm back on my computer. I'm really skeptic because these engines are not unicorns by design they copy many similarities from Ford and GM. This is the only platform I've seen where people swear by HKS plugs and OEM coils. The rest of the DI world isn't so brand bias. It either works or it doesn't. I understand that you have tuned several cars but this doesn't make any sense when the rest of the world has success with what you are call trash.
 

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Discussion Starter #22
It wont let me load .hpl here and I dont want to host them. This sucks!

Anyways, here is a link to my google drive folder where they will be hosted for you to look over. I did these pulls with the A/C on to create a realistic day to day texas environment.

 

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Keep in mind when I say to steer clear of certain brand plugs or coils it's not the brand in general but rather specific plugs or coils they make for this platform. I'm going simply off track record for various parts on this platform from tuning and/or logging 100+ VT and many more reported failures across the forums and other social media.

Now, are failures due to the part itself or improper install or something else? Who knows with all of the unqualified working on their cars and other variables out there. But with all the variables in play there are certain parts for these cars that have the lowest failure rates. Other vendors in the community are seeing the same trends as I am so this is not a hype thing but rather reality. The thing that sucks is the cost of things like plugs being so high for good plugs unlike cheap plugs that may work well for some other makes/models of American muscle.
 

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Discussion Starter #24
Well the ngks I ordered are two steps colder. I thought the Bosche plugs I had were one step colder but actually are the same as stock. It's not bad for my goals but not ideal.

I'm hoping when I get my exhaust it helps ring out the turbo a little bit more in the upper rpm. Seems like the turbo is clapped out around 5500ish rpm.
 

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More to a plug than heat range. Construction plays a big role as well. What was the heat range in your car 6 or 7? Guessing heat range 6 since the 1422 are 2 steps colder. The 1422 also have a higher failure rate. Fyi the OEM 16+ VT coils are 8's and 9's are recommended for tuned VT's. Also fyi the cars with the hr 6 plugs are usually the weaker internals VT which were 13 or early 14 MY cars. Most tuners cap them at 230 whp for safety. I've taken them beyond that with good mods. These are also the engines you do not want to take a chance on with mediocre plugs, coils, fuel, maintenance, etc when tuning.

The turbo can do much better than where you are now. Issues in the upper rpm you have now is partially due to the exhaust side having restricted flow. But being a small turbo it will start to flow less at higher rpm when air flow becomes higher. Drive pressure on the turbine can get up there.....
 

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Build date is on driver B pillar and date on the back of the ecu as well. Hyundai made change to the internals during the 14 MY cars same as the plugs and other parts including the OEM tune. Many changes over time from 13 to 17 for the gen 1 VT that were kept hush hush for the most part.
 

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Discussion Starter #28
Build date is 4/14. I'm hoping that is a "later" build as I would expect and early build to be in 2013 to get on the car lots in the fall/winter.
 

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That would be considered later built 14 MY car. Issue is nobody I'm aware of can put an exact timeframe on when Hyundai made the change to the stronger internals. Just that the 14 MY have had both weaker and stronger internals in the engines. 13 MY all weak internals. 15+ MY all stronger internals. 13 MY and earlier built 14MY come with hr 6 plugs. Later 14 MY and all 15 MY come with hr 7 plugs. 16+ MY hr 8 plugs. 16+ also went to a different coil setup. As I mentioned before the OEM tunes have changed a lot from 13 MY to 17 MY as well.

A car like yours coming to me for a tune I'd treat as a weak internal engine unless more extensive mods were in place before I'd take to higher power levels. I have many weak internal engine VT north of 230 no problems. Some vendors do as well before they started capping the tunes on them due to the internals.
 

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Discussion Starter #30
Pretty sure at 19-20 psi is a safe spot. Again this is just a DD that needs more pep in it's step. I'm not trying to squeeze all the power out of it. I just need something more fun in the hill country on the way to work
 

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Oh for sure.

I'd keep engine absolute load % to 220% area max with a safe tune to keep it in the 230 whp area. This will end up in the 15-19 psi area depending on iats and other parameters.

Being in TX you need to setup a water/meth injection kit on the car properly for much added safety and benefit. Let me know if you need any help or pointers.
 

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Discussion Starter #32
Oh for sure.

I'd keep engine absolute load % to 220% area max with a safe tune to keep it in the 230 whp area. This will end up in the 15-19 psi area depending on iats and other parameters.

Being in TX you need to setup a water/meth injection kit on the car properly for much added safety and benefit. Let me know if you need any help or pointers.
I agree. I wish I still had my aem water/meth kit that was on my ecoboost. It's crazy how high kits have increased in price. Do you know of any budget oriented options. I basically want to add it on top but not tune for it. My goal is to tune my spark map on the Dyno without meth and just let the ecu do it's thing when I start spraying. I would ideally like to use a progressive controller of some sort so I can ramp it in as boost increases and lower it as it decreases. On the Ecoboost I ran I believe was the smallest knozzle and I would start at 6psi (initial throttle boost pressure) and have full flow by 18psi( my Max boost was 23-24psi) The ecoboost was tuned for it though and I tied the level sensor into a relay that would cut signal to the drive by wire so the car would go into limp mode if I ever ran out of water.
 

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Discussion Starter #33
Solo exhaust will be here tonight. The inner ricer in me wants to do a pops and bang tune and possibly throw in some cam overlap at idle to fake an aggressive cam. You ever mess with any of that? It seems like I have everything needed in HP tuners to make it happen
 

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Yes I can help you with the water/meth injection kit but nothing is cheaper like many years ago for anything decent. Have not messed with fake cam things at idle before. Other stuff yes.
 

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Solo exhaust will be here tonight. The inner ricer in me wants to do a pops and bang tune and possibly throw in some cam overlap at idle to fake an aggressive cam.
It seems like I have everything needed in HP tuners to make it happen
I heard about doing tunes to make cars, usually V8's sound cammed.
They actually sound pretty good but when it comes time to prove what ya got in the street you're still not cammed.
Repress that inner ricer and let the force guide you. 😂👍

Enjoying the conversation between you two. 👍
 

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Discussion Starter #36
Installed the Solo exhaust. Decided against the gutted cat. Not sure if im going to do that or not. I really like how the car sounds with the solo with the included resonator. Anyways on the way to work I dialed in my pops and bangs. I really am starting to enjoy HP tuners for our car. Here is my pops and bangs map edits below. I played with Fuel Cutoff delay to determine the duration's of the poping and played with timing for the intensity of the pops and bangs
 

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If you plan to go over say 220-230% absolute load area on 93 or want to do pops and bangs the cat needs to go. Unsafe for the engine and the cats otherwise you'll screw something up long term.

Also no need for main spark table adjustments for the pops n bangs.
 

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Discussion Starter #39
Where are you adjusting it? Only in the minimum? If thats the case I would rather stick with the min. I used the main and min to lock it in to see what I like/dislike. Most standalones I tune on only have 1 table for spark that is used unless blending between fuels. I dont plan to increase load anymore and right now I have it set for 220. Im ok with ditching the cat Im just worried about potential rasp. I really like how the exhaust doesnt rasp right now
 

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Optimum spark and two other maps forgot the name off top of my head.

Can always buy a piece lower catless DP to put on the car and if you do not like it you can sell it an put the OEM lower DP back on.
 
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