Veloster Turbo Forum banner

1 - 15 of 15 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
50 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
For a while now, I have been very bothered by the fact that you cannot drive around with just the LEDs (eyeliner) on.
I haven't seen an easy way of doing this as of yet, but while browsing through my AllDataDIY shop manual, I saw one, and decided to make a DIY.

OBLIGATORY DISCLAIMER: DON'T MESS UP YOUR OWN CAR. This DIY Advises you to remove several connectors from the Smart Junction Box or Body Control Module. This controls almost everything in the car beyond the engine (Though it does tell the engine to start). I had no issues whatsoever as a result of any of the steps described below. However, do this at your own risk. It is not my fault if your car breaks.

Tools Needed:
  • Philips Screwdriver
  • Large Flathead Screwdriver
  • 10mm Socket Wrench
  • Very small flathead screwdriver
  • Soldering Iron
  • Crimpers (For Spade Connectors)
  • Wire Strippers & Cutters
  • Razor Knife
  • Soldering Iron (Can Get By Without)
  • Lighter or Heat Gun (Or Hair Dryer)
  • 1/4" Socket Wrench and Philips Driver Bit are Nice to have
  • Mini DTM Fuse Puller (There is one inside the engine compartment fuse box)
  • Drill and 1/4" Bit
Materials Needed:
  • 1x SPST 12V Relay (Doesn't Need more than 2A Rating or so, LEDs pull only .5A. I used a Rayex Elec LD1A-12F from Advance Auto)
  • 3x 1/4" Female Spade Connectors (Or appropriate size for your relay & wire)
  • Spare Low Profile Mini Fuses (10A & 15A) (I THINK ATM Mini Fuses will fit but no promises)
  • 1x Squeeze Wire Tap or Crimp on Butt Splice
  • 2x Fuse Taps (I made some, you can make or buy)
  • 1/8" and 1/4" Heat Shrink Tube (Or Electrical Tape)
  • Stranded Wire (I used 18 AWG that I had on hand, >=24 AWG is fine)
Steps:
FUSE TAPS
I made my own fuse taps by cutting back the plastic on top of the fuse body and soldering a wire to the spade.
IMG_2850.jpg
You should be able to buy something similar, but it was pretty easy to make. You will need to have two of them (One 10A and one 15A).
Leave around 8" of wire and crimp on a Female 1/4" Spade Connector.

REMOVE CRASH PAD IN CAR
Open car door, remove the side cover of the crash pad. This pops off with a screwdriver (There is a notch at the bottom), then you can slide a finger up to pop out all of the connectors.
IMG_2865.jpg IMG_2867.jpg IMG_2868.jpg IMG_2869.jpg
Remove the (4) Screws that hold the crash pad cover on. One of them is hard to reach, I used my socket wrench and a philips driver bit to reach it.
IMG_2858_W_Circles.jpg IMG_2861.jpg

Pull off the crash pad (it has the same kind of pop-out connectors as the last piece.
Remove the OBD Port and the Crash Pad Switch Cables (Ultimates will have a few more connectors here I think). The OBD Port has tabs on the side that need to be pushed in.
IMG_2854.jpg IMG_2855.jpg

Unbolt the (5) Bolts that hold the pictured metal piece in place, remove that piece.
IMG_2853_W_Circles.jpg
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
50 Posts
Discussion Starter #2
Disconnect connectors I/P-E, I/P-F, I/P-G, and I/P-H From the "Smart Junction Box"/"Passenger Compartment Fuse Box"
Smart Junction Box.png

Unbolt the (3) Bolts that hold the Smart Junction Box in Place.
IMG_2845.jpg IMG_2846.jpg

Pull the Smart Junction box out. Keep an eye on the studs at the top, it has to come UP then out. Let it hang from the other connectors.
Disconnect I/P-C on the back of the Smart Junction Box. It is the upper connector with a bunch of pins occupied.
Use the Small Screwdriver to pry open the "gate" on the connector. This will allow you to remove the pins. There are two pry locations. The gate will pop out maybe 2mm.
IMG_2840.jpg

Pull out Pin 11 (Pink Wire)
IMG_2842.jpg

This wire goes to the multifunction switch that controls the headlights. This is for the "Parking Lights," which normally includes the DRL (High beams @ 6V) And the Tail light circuit (Tail Lights are in Parallel with LED Eyeliner, Halos and Side Markers).
We need to tap into this and use it to fire our relay. The switch, when in the "Parking Lights" position, grounds this wire out.
I chose to leave the pin, and use the squeeze wire tap so that I could go back easily if I wanted. You can also cut and butt splice your wire to this.
If you use the wire tap, be sure to shrink tube or tape the pin that will hang out. Leave about 6" of wire and crimp on another female spade connector.
IMG_2844.jpg

Put the Smart Junction Box back in place and put the two upper nuts back on. Leave the lower one off.
My Relay has a mounting bracket, so I used this lower bolt to hold the relay, but I had to drill the hole in the bracket out a bit.
Put the bolt through the relay mounting bracket, then back in its original location.
IMG_2847.jpg IMG_2849.jpg

Reconnect all of the Smart Junction Box Connectors you disconnected earlier.
Now, plug in your two tap fuses into "POWER OUTLET" and "TAIL LAMP RH"
Note: "POWER OUTLET" is normally a 15A Fuse. I had already cut up a 10A, so I rolled with it. No big deal.
Pay attention to which side of the fuse is tapped. On the "POWER OUTLET" we want to tap the DOWN STREAM side (After the fuse), which is to the left. On the "TAIL LAMP RH" We want to tap the UPSTREAM SIDE, which is to the right.
IMG_2851.jpg

Finally, wire everything to your relay. You need the supply to both the coil and the switch side of the relay to be connected to the POWER OUTLET fuse tap. You need the other side of the coil to go to the I/P-C Pin 11 (Multifunction Switch). Finally, the other side of the switch in the relay goes to the TAIL LAMP RH fuse tap, which will supply the LEDs. I labeled the relay pins as they were on my relay, they may be different on yours. I soldered a piece of wire between the supply pins on the relay, you can do that or crimp a second spade connector on.
Relay Wiring-01.png

Double check all of your wiring, then turn the car to "ACC" and turn your headlight switch to Parking Lights. The LEDs, Side Marker Lights, and Tail Lights will now come on without DRL.

NOTE: On mine, the DRL aren't coming on even in DRL mode. It doesn't bother me so I haven't looked into it further. I hate those things anyways.
I will post a picture once it gets a little darker. The LEDs aren't terribly bright.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
50 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
I forgot to post this, but here is a schematic of Connector I/P-C so that you can identify pin 11 Positively.
Screen Shot 2015-08-30 at 4.02.35 PM.png .

BONUS: If you want independent fogs, you can follow the same procedure, but:
Use Pin 23 (White Wire) on I/P-C instead of Pin 11.
Use I/P-A Pin 6 (White Wire) Instead of the TAIL LAMP RH Fuse Tap.
Only use POWER OUTLET to supply the coil, ground out other pin on relay.
Follow Below Schematic. NOTICE: I HAVE NOT DONE THIS.
Relay Wiring - Indy Fogs-01.png

If you don't care whether your fogs turn off when you turn the car off, you can simply connect I/P-C Pin 11 to I/P-A Pin 6. This will work but fogs will turn on even if the car is off.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,489 Posts
What model year is your car? I have a 13 and so no DRL. Running in parking light mode just has the leds up front and the tail lights. After I put in HIDs though, I just run headlights on 24/7.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
50 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Mine is a 2014. My stock functionality was:
Off: All lights off
DRL: High Beams at 6V ONLY
"Parking Lights" (hand brake on): LEDs, Side Markers, Tail Lights
"Parking Lights" (hand brake off): Above plus High beams at 6V
Head lights: Low beams (projectors), LEDs, Side Markers, Tail Lights

Now everything is basically the same but without the high beams at 6V.
You definitely won't have DRL now due to the HIDs but I thought the 2013 model was supposed to work as described above.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,489 Posts
There are no DRL on the 13. High beams only come on (at any brightness) when the stalk is pushed/pulled appropriately.
What I would find more interesting is a way to run only the headlight LEDs without the tail lights being on - so having the DRL be the LEDs instead instead of the high beams @6V.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11,490 Posts
I personally hate the way the half brightness highbeams look. I love that my '13 didn't get saddled with that crap fest.
And if I'm going to rant, may as well get it all out. DRLs are stupid. Not sure what the point it or what the plan was by that committee.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,976 Posts
i'm ok with it. you always get that soccermom or moron who can't remember to turn the damn lights on. atleast cars can do it themselves now...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
50 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
What I would find more interesting is a way to run only the headlight LEDs without the tail lights being on - so having the DRL be the LEDs instead instead of the high beams @6V.
This can be done, but is a bit more tricky. You can't just put power to one spot and call it good. You would have to find the cables that go to the LEDs (I believe they are paralleled with the side marker lights), splice in a diode and tap in your power supply (which in my diy goes to the tail lamp rh fuse tap) downstream from the diode.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8 Posts
I attempted to do this mod and it didn't work, also the wiring is different in 2016 so the wiring for the fog lights on the other plug are not the same, does anyone have an updated repair manual for the 2016 because obviously things have changed since 2010-2013 manual
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8 Posts
on the 2016 VT high beams run at 1/2 voltage as DRL and fogs can only be turned on when the low beams are on, if you switch off the lows the 1/2 voltage high beams engage and the fogs turn off, total pain in the ass, I saw on the 2010-2013 repair manual that there is a DRL relay on the IPM Connector D so I am considering disconnecting that lead and see if it disables the DRLs IPM Connector.png
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8 Posts
stupid question but I'm a novice when working with relays, if 85 is ground and 86 is source as in a standard relay is there a chance that the OPs diagram is reverse in my relay and that I need to reverse the wiring to match? followed instructions to the letter and didnt work, this is my relay 20181224_003558[611].jpg


Edit: I should note that when I finished the wiring my tail lights did not come on nor did the leds
 
1 - 15 of 15 Posts
Top