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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've just purchased a Pioneer TS-SW841D sub woofer which I hope will fit in the current speaker position without the need for a spacer! I've also purchased a Pioneer Sub amplifier ( GM-3500T ) which can take speaker level inputs without the need for a pac. I want to try to do the install myself, but have a couple of problems I need some advice/directions for;

1/ How do I remove the existing sub? Can I prise the speaker out, or do I have to remove the trim to get at the speaker screws/pop rivets?

2/ Is there a special tool for removing the front passenger seat to place the amplifier? It doesn't seem possible to be able to remove the bolts holding the seat in with a socket or spanner and I don't want to mark the bolts by using multi-grips?

3/ Where do I run the power lead for the amp from? Do I need to hook into the battery itself, or is there somewhere within the cabin space to do this?

4/ Where can I get the remote sensor signal from? Is there a lead on the existing amp to get this from?

I'd like to do this myself, not only to save money, but to be able to say "I did it myself" :)
 

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1- pop the hatch, remove the spare tire cover deck, pry the rear middle panel up ward it will pop off ez, unscrew the one screw that is now exposed on the hatch panel, pull it out being carefull to not go too far and snap the front that is still attached to the rear seatbelts. now you can either unscrew the stock sub or remove the whole enclosure, there is a little butyl so you will need to pry slightly after unscrewing it. I would just pop the new sub in. It is dvc you will have to connect both sides or only one i you have single voice coil sub.

2-never touched the amp-

3-you can run an 8 gauge power wire from the +battery terminal with a fuse inline to the center of the firewall, there is a grommet that you can feed the wire thru it will fall right into the passenger foot area, then route it by tucking it away in the panels to hide it.

4- this is the tricky part... there is a right way"hard" and easier way"not so easy" to do this , or the really hard way "i didnt even bother". you can tap off off any positive wire you can find such as the one leading to the glove compartment light. if your removing the stock amp you should be able to determine the remote wire easily, i do not know what color they used. a test light will get you the answers you need the amp has to have a remote its there some where. the option i used was purchasing a line level covertor with volume sensing circuit to turn on the amp " PAC SOEM-T".
 

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First thing is first. I am not at all trying to be one of the hard core asses on other forums.

With that being said, as turbosocks has said in the past, if you are lost, then you shouldn't be doing it.

Audio install is pretty simple.

The power Is definitely going to come from the battery. A stated above, using an inline fuse.

Remote wire.........google is your friend (or search the forum). You need to search for the wiring diagram for the factory head unit. It will likely tell you what you need to know.

You will be quite surprised once you see the stock sub. It isn't just mounted in there. It is an entire unit that is enclosed and everything. Getting the spare tire mounted sub will likely be your best bet. I would be curious as well to see if it will even work. You need a box for a sub and I don't believe you will have anything remotely close to what you need in there.

Running the power, remote, and RCAs is also a tricky thing if you've never done it. DO NOT RUN THEM ALL TOGETHER. I cannot stress that enough. Take the power and remote up the driver's side and the RCAs up the passenger side. Otherwise, you will get nothing but interference and a whole lot of alien chatter.....lol

I am sure there is a DIY on here for doing exactly what you are looking for though. Just peruse around and see what you find.

Good luck on the install though and post some pics of the finished product.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
hmm you should try to run just that sub and tell me how it sounds.. I was going to get one of those a while ago and I never did lol
OK, that was my intention anyway. I wanted to check whether with all other things being equal whether the Pioneer sub would make a difference to bass response? I do think that I will have to fit the amp to get the best performance possible. I'll post pics showing how easy/difficult it is to replace the sub given that 13EliteVT suggests the stock unit has a built in enclosure?

Wish me luck, this looks like bigger job than I originally thought!
 

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I'll post pics showing how easy/difficult it is to replace the sub given that 13EliteVT suggests the stock unit has a built in enclosure?

Wish me luck, this looks like bigger job than I originally thought!
Here is a pic of the sub enclosure. Not your typical enclosure at all.

Text Line art Diagram Auto part Organism


I'll see if I can find that wiring diagram for the stock head unit/amp for the remote wire too.
 

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So far, everything I have found doesn't list the actual colors of the wiring. Kind of retarded really. I shall keep looking and let you know if there is anything out there.
 

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threw an amp on the stock sub doesn't make it much louder even feeding it way more power than it should handle. its the enclosure limitations i assume.. the stock sub is a champ tho it did not blow as i expected it too yet. I got a replacement polk 8 coming that is going into the spare tire area custom style to fill in the quick bumps my 12's don't put out.
 

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Can one just tap into the rear door speakers (of the factory amp) using a line out convertor (PAC SOEM-T unit), run RCA's to your aftermarket amp? View attachment 29876
I tapped in to the factory amp.. forget trying to get at the back speakers
 

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I tapped in to the factory amp.. forget trying to get at the back speakers
You can pickup at the connector at the stock amp for rear speakers.
 
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Where is the best spot to connect the remote wire?
Looking at chart it appears wire 7. Light blue is acc on I would verify with a meter and if so hook to that one.
 
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