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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I installed this kit from LEDGlow the other night in about 45 minutes. 4pc. Blue Expandable SMD LED Interior Lighting Kit : Amazon.com : Automotive
If you order from LEDGlow directly, LEDGlow Lighting ? LED UnderGlow Lights and LED Underbody Kits, use the code "SMDSINGLELED10" for 10% the single color kits.

Since the unit is remote controlled, I hid the control box inside the dash, and have literally 4 wires for the whole install. 2 USB cables (one to connect the two tubes together, one running up to the control box near the fuse-box), a power wire connected to the mini add-a-fuse, and the ground wire.

You Will Need:
Light kit
mini fuse-size add-a-fuse kit w/10amp and a second fuse (I used 7.5amp, they should both be included with the kit)
*note: The VT uses low-profile mini fuses. Regular mini fuses will fit in the slots just fine.
zip ties
screw driver
wrench - use the one that comes with the car under the trunk floor-mat
trim removal tools

On to the install:
The First thing you can do is hang the LED tubes on the footwells. You want to hang them far enough back that the bars can't be seen, but the light can. I zipped them to some of the wiring hanging under the footwell. The lights connect to one another using USB cables, so plug the cable into one end of the tube, and feed it through the gap behind the center stack. You'll also hide any excess cable in that space as well. My hands were small enough to reach through, you might need to have someone on the driver's side to get the other end of the cable.

Driver's Side. Not Pictured: The other USB cable that will snake up toward the fuse box & into the control box (mostly done by feel anyway).



To hook up the control box, open your driver's side door and take a look at the panel next to the air vent. You'll be prying this off. In order to get the panel off, pull the weather stripping off the door. You only need to pull off enough to see the edges of the panel.


There's a slot on the bottom for inserting a pry tool.

Pull the panel off:



Now you've got your panel open and you can do the wiring. The control box has a ground wire (black) and a power wire (red). Crimp your red wire to the mini add-a-fuse:

The black wire get's grounded using the 10mm bolt in the picture. You'll see I've already got the control box above the fuse box, but wait a few steps to do this.


Feed your add-a-fuse through the panel and replace the 10amp fuse at the top-center of the box:


At this point, you can plug the USB cable into the control box, and make sure the lights turn on - remember to turn the car ON to send power to the control box.
Finally, put the control box into the space above the fuse box. Hide the wiring in the space next to the fuse box (I used zip ties to bundle them up).


If all goes well, you'll now have everything working:
 

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Thanks for the walkthrough, still can't decide what color lighting to go with. :)
Was it difficult to run the usb cable through from the passenger side to the driver side? or did u remove the center console to do it?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks for the walkthrough, still can't decide what color lighting to go with. :)
Was it difficult to run the usb cable through from the passenger side to the driver side? or did u remove the center console to do it?
I just pushed it through the gap - I was happy specifically because I didn't have to remove the center console.
If you're having trouble picking a color - you could always go with the 3 million color kit, it has a pause function so you can stop on any color it produces.
 

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I just pushed it through the gap - I was happy specifically because I didn't have to remove the center console.
If you're having trouble picking a color - you could always go with the 3 million color kit, it has a pause function so you can stop on any color it produces.
I'm still deciding if I want to put LEDs under the driver and passenger seat for the rear. Then I'd have to remove the console to feed the wires. My VT is in the body shop anyways so I got time.
How long are the USB cables?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I'm still deciding if I want to put LEDs under the driver and passenger seat for the rear. Then I'd have to remove the console to feed the wires. My VT is in the body shop anyways so I got time.
How long are the USB cables?
Actually, because the lights can daisy chain and the cables are so long (2 5' and 2 9' I think), you can run the passenger side rear lights under the panel near the door sill up to the passenger side tube. For the driver's side you can run it along the sill up to the control box directly. It's cramped to work in the back seat, but if you find a spot for the tubes, it should be a pretty easy addition to put the rear lights in without removing the console.
 

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Actually, because the lights can daisy chain and the cables are so long (2 5' and 2 9' I think), you can run the passenger side rear lights under the panel near the door sill up to the passenger side tube. For the driver's side you can run it along the sill up to the control box directly. It's cramped to work in the back seat, but if you find a spot for the tubes, it should be a pretty easy addition to put the rear lights in without removing the console.
didn't realize they can be daisy chained. Awesome, I'm also assuming that if I do need extra wire (since they are mini usb) I could always use a USB extension cable. I can't get to the back seat right now to check where I'll place the rear seat tubes since I haven't been able to open my rear door for 2 months now lol. Give me time to plan the work I wanna do on my VT.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
didn't realize they can be daisy chained. Awesome, I'm also assuming that if I do need extra wire (since they are mini usb) I could always use a USB extension cable. I can't get to the back seat right now to check where I'll place the rear seat tubes since I haven't been able to open my rear door for 2 months now lol. Give me time to plan the work I wanna do on my VT.
When I was looking around back there, it was a little tight to mount them under the actual seats. But, I think sticking the passenger's side to the Amp and the driver's side to the lip on the floor would probably work. I'll probably mess around a bit today & take pictures if I figure out anything useful.
 

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When I was looking around back there, it was a little tight to mount them under the actual seats. But, I think sticking the passenger's side to the Amp and the driver's side to the lip on the floor would probably work. I'll probably mess around a bit today & take pictures if I figure out anything useful.
My original thought was to place it under the drivers seat. but from the pictures I found online there appears to be a little gap between by the rear seats.

Land vehicle Vehicle Car Car seat Car seat cover


Side note: wish the Boston Red VT came with the red leather trim seats instead of gray
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
25 and 29 feet!!! Holy long cables, Batman!
lol no, two 5' cables and two 9' cables. I bundled all the excess up with a zip tie. The site sells shorter ones if you want.
 

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Thanks for the walkthrough, still can't decide what color lighting to go with. :)
Was it difficult to run the usb cable through from the passenger side to the driver side? or did u remove the center console to do it?
I got the Million Pro and change color every day (or second). I just wish it could somehow hook it up to the speedo and have it change color from say blue to red depending on the speed.....
 

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jcroscigno, thank you thank you for posting this! Super helpful, will have this on my laptop when in the garage working this out on my VT!

Can't wait! Thanks again!
 

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I got the Million Pro and change color every day (or second). I just wish it could somehow hook it up to the speedo and have it change color from say blue to red depending on the speed.....
Probably gonna go with the Million Pro as well. That's be interesting to have it hooked up to the speedo, don't know if I'd want it to change color though, maybe different levels of intensity based on speed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
jcroscigno, thank you thank you for posting this! Super helpful, will have this on my laptop when in the garage working this out on my VT!

Can't wait! Thanks again!
Glad to help - let me know if you have questions when you're installing!
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Probably gonna go with the Million Pro as well. That's be interesting to have it hooked up to the speedo, don't know if I'd want it to change color though, maybe different levels of intensity based on speed.
I went with the single color for the brightness options and to keep it simple. I put the 6-piece million color kit in my sister's Mustang and had an older million color kit in my Scion xA. I love the versatility with this company. The VT was easily the simplest installation (Mustang was the hardest).
 

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I went with the single color for the brightness options and to keep it simple. I put the 6-piece million color kit in my sister's Mustang and had an older million color kit in my Scion xA. I love the versatility with this company. The VT was easily the simplest installation (Mustang was the hardest).
What do you think about the placement for the rear seat lights on the VT, I don't know the measurements for the LEDs, and I can't measure the space under the rear seats to see if it would fit, won't have my VT back for at least another week or so.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Highly considering this option since the console doesn't have to be taken off
That was really the goal of the install - I wanted to do the least amount of disassembly possible. The LEDGlow kits are great because of the USB daisy-chaining.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
You mention this in your writeup, "Feed your add-a-fuse through the panel and replace the 10amp fuse at the top-center of the box:"

When you say replace the 10amp fuse, what is it the existing fuse is doing? Just a bit unclear on that bit, otherwise sounds easy as!
The 10A fuse is for the inverter - I just looked for one that was switched on/off with the ignition.

I pulled the 10amp out of the fuse box, but it's a super-mini tiny thing that I've never seen before. The package for the add-a-fuse has a 10amp fuse in it though. The point was that with the add-a-fuse you need to use 2 fuses, one for the circuit you're piggybacking on, and one for the the new circuit (in this case I used a 7.5amp, but I think it's actually supposed to be a 4amp).
 
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