I know people have already stated how this mod is a solid improvement ect... so I figure I would give a little bit more info.
First.. its very simple to remove/replace. Like others stated, it should take you longer to jack up the car.. then actually remove/replace the part.
For those getting stuck not being able to remove the cap on the clamp.. Just use needle nose pliers to grab/wiggle it off, or wedge a small Flathead Screwdriver under the cap and pop it off. Either will work.
Its still unknown as to WHY they would add this part. But the fact of the matter is, by replacing it.. you gain top end and over all drive-ability.
Gains come on around 3500+ RPMS.
It drastically reduces the "flat spot" during WOT which you may feel around 4000 - 5500 RPMs.
I also noticed, how SMOOTH boost comes on now.
With the 6MT version of the car. Shifting from 1st to 2nd feels much better. Less hesitation and when you punch it.. it goes.
I'm assuming it must reduce turbo spool, to some degree. Looking into the baffle, there are square edges & hollow chambers... NONE of that can be good for compressed air to be whipping past.
Also, like others have stated. The friction caused by the baffle would ALSO add to heat in the system = no good.
Here is a look inside the stock baffle :
![Image]()
Below is a pic of the pipe installed AFTER the fact :
![Image]()
I just left the cap off the clamp. So if I ever need to replace it with the stock baffle, I can avoid dick1ng around with the cap
As for the spring clamp on the other side. Just use a pair of Channel lock pliers.. easy!
Finally, you should see a boost in MPG per tank... I'm seeing about 2+
TorkMe sells a nice Stainless pipe which you can get from this thread : http://www.velosterturbo.org/forum/tork-motorsports/4142-you-want-power-upgrade-under-30-00-a.html
OR another option is an Aluminum version ( which I installed ) here : Cxracing 2" OD Straight Aluminum Joiner Pipe for Intecooler Turbo 5" Long | eBay
Price per HP! This one is a MUST. In fact, after sending back my canned tune. Then installing this.. I don't miss the canned tune AT ALL
First.. its very simple to remove/replace. Like others stated, it should take you longer to jack up the car.. then actually remove/replace the part.
For those getting stuck not being able to remove the cap on the clamp.. Just use needle nose pliers to grab/wiggle it off, or wedge a small Flathead Screwdriver under the cap and pop it off. Either will work.
Its still unknown as to WHY they would add this part. But the fact of the matter is, by replacing it.. you gain top end and over all drive-ability.
Gains come on around 3500+ RPMS.
It drastically reduces the "flat spot" during WOT which you may feel around 4000 - 5500 RPMs.
I also noticed, how SMOOTH boost comes on now.
With the 6MT version of the car. Shifting from 1st to 2nd feels much better. Less hesitation and when you punch it.. it goes.
I'm assuming it must reduce turbo spool, to some degree. Looking into the baffle, there are square edges & hollow chambers... NONE of that can be good for compressed air to be whipping past.
Also, like others have stated. The friction caused by the baffle would ALSO add to heat in the system = no good.
Here is a look inside the stock baffle :
Below is a pic of the pipe installed AFTER the fact :
I just left the cap off the clamp. So if I ever need to replace it with the stock baffle, I can avoid dick1ng around with the cap
As for the spring clamp on the other side. Just use a pair of Channel lock pliers.. easy!
Finally, you should see a boost in MPG per tank... I'm seeing about 2+
TorkMe sells a nice Stainless pipe which you can get from this thread : http://www.velosterturbo.org/forum/tork-motorsports/4142-you-want-power-upgrade-under-30-00-a.html
OR another option is an Aluminum version ( which I installed ) here : Cxracing 2" OD Straight Aluminum Joiner Pipe for Intecooler Turbo 5" Long | eBay
Price per HP! This one is a MUST. In fact, after sending back my canned tune. Then installing this.. I don't miss the canned tune AT ALL
