Rubbing alcohol makes a great lubricant when dealing with rubber on metal.

The good part is that the rubbing alcohol evaporates completely

leaving no residue.

The rubber piping is naturally being lubricated from the emission

system, so it should be well cleaned before utilizing the new pipe.

Doing this way will help eliminate blowing the connection in

high boost situations.

***

 

We still have these in stock and we are still the only company that makes them out of stainless steel!

 

I did a solid work week of driving without the eco and ALOT of WOT while the ecu relearned and got a 2mpg gain compared to the stock pipe and the same type of driving for a week without eco. w/o pipe 23mpg no eco. W/Tork pipe and no eco 25mpg.

All this week I've been granny driving and not shifting above 2500 rpms and I gained 2.8 mpg. I went from 27mpg to 29.8. Damn near 3mpgs for 23 bucks is fucking awesome. Not to mention the power increase. I felt no torq loss, imo. If I did lose torq, its not noticable.

These are figured at the pump so they are actual.

My commute is 62 miles a day with mixed highway and city.

Thanks Tork.

 

YES. They are...lol

 

Well. I think I blew off one side of the pipe. Driving on the highway, going to pass a car in the slow lane, WOT at about 4300 rpms in 4th and then all of a sudden my boost cut out. Now I can hear a whistle whenever I get on the throttle. Too dark took tonight but Tork Pipe is my only performance mod besides exhaust, so I'm 99% sure I popped a clamp off.

The whistle is ridiculous. I sound like a diesel haha.

 

yeah you popped it. lol

 

That sucks. I was wondering, is it still driveable when that happens? Will it hurt anything running it like that just to get home?

 

I didn't go into WOT or boost after I popped it. Drove fine. No CEL. If you're foolish enough to boost with it popped, you may overboost or damage something. It still whistles even when you're not in boost.
Anyone know what size t bolt clamps? I'm assuming 2". I'm going to order some so this doesn't happen again.

 

Thanks man.

I figured goin into boost after that would be a bad thing..lol I just wanted to be sure it would get me home.
I got about 950 miles on mine right now and I've been poundin it.

2.5" clamps is what i used. its a 2" pipe and with a 2" clamp it will be hard next to impossible to get it over the hose.

 

No problem! Just don't drive crazy if it pops and you're fine. My car just turned 1,000 miles on the trip tonight when it popped. I've had the pipe on for about 400 miles. Just never dropped from 6th to 4th and went WOT before. Whoops.

Ordering 2.5" clamps now. Thanks!

 

No problem. I've done a few 6 to 4s and A LOT of WOTs in eco, out of eco...lol You name it I've done it.

Did you use and kind of lubricant when installing it...?----hehehehehe...sorry....lol

 

Negative, none. I'm assuming I just didn't have it seated properly. I'll try the hairspray trick when I get the tbolt clamps in to be extra sure. Found some clamps that clamp 2.14 - 2.56", so I'm picking those up.

 

It was the side with the pinch clamp. I seated it and used the same clamp again. Once my t bolts come in, I'll slap those on.

 

The tork pipe will fit the 2014 model as well correct? Just want to make sure before spending my cash. still trying to decide whether to go with a CAI or SRI since im in miami... A lot of rain...

 

Yes

 

Hey all
I know this thread is a bit old but I just wanted to ask a quick question if anyones on.
I am getting a tune tomorrow and just received the ebay pipe in the mail today. Now I heard it gets rid of early torque but gives high end. I like the early torque for round town but If i get the tune after installing it will they be able to cancel this out i.e still have early torque down low plus high end.?
Or do I not really need it now that i am getting the tune?
I also have a magnaflow cat back and k&n CAI.

Thanks.

 

just toss it in.... don't be scared.

 

Just installed this 10 min job took 50 because I didn't have channel locks!!! Lol but got it clamped with brute strength lol took it for a drive honestly only owned my car a week and I've installed a cold air intake and this I can't tell if performance has improved installing the cnt cat back exhaust next week

 

There is bolt caps? haha..

 

Like I said I didn't have channel locks to get the small hose clamp back over the hose my needle nose and vice grips were to small once I removed the clamp off the hose and released it like a dumb ass lol it stretched to big

 

once I removed the clamp off the hose and released it like a dumb ass lol it stretched to big

Twss

 

Hello all, I was wondering if the Tork pipe will work on my 2015 Kia Forte SX 1.6L turbo? Since the engines are brothers from another mother and all. :smile: I'd sure like to get some better throttle response out of my Forte too! Similar pipes are aluminum and I think that the stainless pipe would be superior!

 

Is the one from TurboSocks just as good as this one?

 

Ours is made out of stainless steel turbo socks is aluminum. They both cost about the same but we were the first to do it.

 

SS is stronger/Heavier
Al is lighter/Dents and dings easily

In charge pipes I prefer SS as you can really crank down on T-Bolt clamps and not deform the pipe. Doesn't much make a difference with the low boost pressures these cars see. But in high boost applications I'll take SS piping everytime

 

Stainless holds heat better. And costs more.

 

Sounds like stainless is the way to go then. Appreciate the info.

 

The stainless steel pipe from Tork / DamnfastDD is $23.45 shipped.