INTRO
This OP will contain a description and photos of my baby in her present state. The photos attached right now are a little old, but I'll take some new ones and put them together. Later posts will be in order of modifications. CURRENT LOOK chargin' mah lazer
MODIFICATION PHOTOS TINT, DECALS, & SPOILER tinnit windoz brand of the sacrifice
MIRRORS Blaaaaaaack.
BRACES & RIGID COLLARS Pierce Motorsports 4eva
OIL CATCH CAN
<insert photo here> Some silly caption goes here.
Modding day 1: Engine Mount Bushings and Strut Tower Brace!
My friends, Doug and Mike, helped me install my first mods! I looked up the torque specs, and did most of the wrenching, but they made sure I didn't screw up. Together, we installed my Pierce Motorsports Strut Tower Brace (red <3), and my REV Motorsports 75A Durometer Lower Engine Mount Bushings. Then we had pizza.
Mike and I, working on the engine mount. I'm on the left.
A couple of weeks later, Doug, Mike, and I went to a well-reviewed tint installation shop, and Hyuna came back with some tanned windows. I went with 43% 3M Ceramic on all sides.
My neighbor, Gil, saw me washing my car, and offered some compliments and advice. I told him about the subframe bushings I picked up from Shark Racing. He offered to let me use his tools and his driveway. 30 minutes later, I had firmed up my front end a bit, and made a new friend.
Modding day 4: Pierce makes the best braces, just look at the welds
A few months prior, I submitted an order for a 4-point tie bar brace from Pierce Motorsports. Then, I proposed a custom trunk brace with tie-down points, to replace the babyseat anchors. Jim Pierce put it all together and shipped it as a single package.
Unfinished trunk brace, test-fit
The trunk brace arrived unfinished, so I took some VHT flat black undercarriage paint and gave it four coats, then used some of my leftover VHT SP730 Gloss Clearcoat to finish it. After letting it dry overnight, I tossed the brace in my oven, and baked it at 200ºF for one hour. That allows the clearcoat to really set, smooths the finish, and makes it extremely resistant to damage (chemical or abrasive).
Finished trunk brace beside tie-bar brace Closeup of braces showing differences in finish
I removed the bolts from the babyseat anchors, and used a serrated knife to slit the carpeted trunk cover to allow the brace to sit against the metal below, yet the carpet to remain in place. I then bolted the brace in place using the original hardware, and torqued it down about as hard as I could using my small socket wrench.
finished trunk brace now installed, showing removed hardware and some tools used
Later, I showed the braces (one installed and one awaiting installation) to Gil, who said we could get the tie bar brace in immediately. We tried to install it without removing the subframe bushings we had installed previously, but the brace wouldn't fit. I reported it to Jim, but ultimately removed the bushings and went with just the brace.
I installed my replacement mirror glass. Here's what you need to know:
The Veloster has very poor rear visibility as a necessary part of the design. The KDM version of the vehicle resolves this issue by installing Convex glass in both the left and right side mirrors. The convex property of the passenger's side mirror appears stronger than the driver's side, and is much stronger than the standard convex mirror glass we commonly see in the USA.
The USDM version of the Veloster un-solves this problem by falling back to the usual flat glass on the driver's side, and slightly-convex on the passenger's side. You can improve rear visibility by using very aggressive mirror angles (some would call this 'proper mirror alignment', and I don't disagree, but it's more aggressive than most drivers use).
The KDM glass is available from exLEDshop, and costs $10 per piece (left or right), so $20 for both. It has the "objects in mirror may be closer than they appear" warning written in Korean, which is awesome :in love:. They are incredibly easy to install, but take a little driver-adaptation (unless you're used to driving semi-trucks or something). Since exLEDshop ships from Korea, it's cheapest to consolidate your orders into the smallest number, to maximize the number of items in each shipment.
A few days later, I managed to install replacement mirror caps too, and without breaking my original ones. I went with gloss black. They're $25 per pair, so cheap enough that you could swap them whenever you feel like it. However, the black really looks good with the glossy-black A-pillars. I think this is how all VTs should have shipped, honestly.
Just after installing, the purple hue is from dusk.
Nice wide shot, showing how the black caps improve the body lines.
Modding day 6: Vinyl and Tow Hook should be red too, damn it.
I applied a red vinyl decal to my now-tinted rear window, just under the spoiler. It's a symbol that holds some personal meaning to me.
Taken minutes after applying, just as it started to rain.
Taken months later, in the extremely bright morning light. Hasn't faded, but reflects light differently so looks a different color in photos. Very red in person.
Also, I decided that my tow hook was too obvious: since the tow hook is integrated into the chassis, and painted the body color, mine was glossy metallic white, against dark grey plastic, down in the shadows under the rear bumper. The contrast between the white and dark colors was so high than I found the hook hard to ignore. I decided to paint it the same red as my brake calipers, using the same paint. I cured the paint using a heat gun and an infrared thermal probe, heating the hook to 200ºF for about 1.5 hours.
Then I decided I need to go all JDM and put a drift charm on the hook, specifically because the head of my car club said I shouldn't. I ziptied a cute little plush panda to the hook, and have left him there to be slowly destroyed by the road.
Thanks! I'm glad you approve. The full wheel specs are listed in the OP, so if you want to get a set you should be able to find them. The summer wheels are even better because they're lighter and better made, but have a very similar look. They're also 18" as compared to the 17" winter setup.
Awesome! What are you thinking of painting? Brake calipers are a must, in my opinion. After that, you could plasti-dip some parts of the wheels, or maybe the hood. I really like the look of a tow hook in your accent color. For me, that's red, but make sure it compliments the color of your body panels.
Yesterday, I installed my upgraded brake rotors from Pierce Motorsports, with help from Doug and Gil. They arrived ahead of the pads and brake lines, so I figured I'd get them installed so I could break them in a bit in advance. New rotors feel funky! I hear they take about 100-300 miles to really break in. I'll be taking my driving very easy between now and then just to be safe.
Shiny new rear rotors!
Finished product!
After that, I pulled off my 4-point tie bar brace and egged out the rear holes to make them compatible with Turbosock's rigid collar kit. Two more mods off the list!
Upsidedown and covered in sweat, grease, and mosquitos...
Good job with the car, it's crazy how many members here have gone straight to plasti dipping since the vt looks amazing in any color scheme but not you, you just got right too all the expensive goodies that makes the car even more fun to drive.. Congrats and jealous, I wish I could afford to do all the braces and wheels
I swapped my stock wiper blade assemblies for some PIAA Forza Hybrid Silicone assemblies (26" and 18", FYI). They cost me about $70 total after shipping. Installation took about 5 seconds per side (opening the package took longer, hah). They seem a lot more aerodynamic, work completely silently, and do not suck like my 6-month-old original blades. I'll get some photos in the morning.
Did you install the mirror covers yourself? I've seen video tutorials on how to remove the originals and they hack at them to remove them..
I assume you found a better way?? Do share.
I did not damage my mirror covers during removal. I was extremely careful because the Elite White mirror covers are not easy to procure. I used a set of plastic trim removal tools, and a good bit of patience, but I could do it again in probably 10-15 minutes flat. The first one was scary. The second was easy.
Also, I completely love the look of the gloss black caps on any color of VT, ultimate or base. The sales staff and service staff at my dealership love my look. Every time I come in, they ask what I've been working on. I can't wait to show them the FMIC.
We hacked at them because we had no intention on keeping the originals (that was a coworker's mirror and he didn't want to ever go back to his original cover). If he wanted to, the guy taking them off probably would've been a bit "nicer" to them. *If you are talking about our video, since I've read many things about us destroying that mirror cover...
I'm not 100% sure who uploaded the video, but never-the-less, I would like to ascertain my original covers, mainly due to the fact that they are the originals.
My summer wheels finally arrived. One was damaged in shipping and had to be replaced. I have the replacement but I haven't had an opportunity to get the tire moved over, because...
Wheel damage closeup, sucks.
While I was in the parking lot of a tire shop, getting my winter wheels rebalanced, a kid in a Toyota Sienna introduced his passenger's side rear wheel well to my driver's side rear bumper, and wrecked the paint.
noooo you bastard...
So she's been in the shop getting her bumper repainted. It's unfortunate.
however, before I dropped her off, I managed to get my FMIC and CAI installed!
Kinky hose got disconnected after this, no more recirc until I can do it unkinked.
Modding day 12: the Synchronic DV goes PSSSSH
SHE'S BACK FROM PAINT! Bumper looks just great, woo. Also all the expenses were covered, which is precisely what I like to hear.
Yesterday, I got my Synchronic DV installed. I really love the build quality, and how well it mounts. I encountered a bit of trouble because the piston was too stiff, but with some help from Kyle@845Motorsports on the phone, I got it working.
VRRRM PSSSH
I'd like to get it recirculating, but I don't have the correct hose adapter (my hose adapter is 1.25", and my hose is 8/7", recirc port on the intake pipe is 8/7"). For anyone wondering how my setup works, it should be obvious from the photo above, but, Push-B configuration. I'd like to experiment with Pull-B and Pull-AB, but it doesn't really matter that much. Push-B is safe, quick, easy, and extremely satisfying.
Stealthy FMIC looks almost stock, amirite?
You can barely see the FMIC from behind the front bumper and I like it that way. I managed to get all the splashguards back on the car, which helps keep the bumper from vibrating as much. Unfortunately, they aren't mounted exactly as intended, as the FMIC blocks some of the holes intended to hold those screw-clips, but I managed to squeeze it in anyway.
The DV is hidden, but only just.
I'm extremely satisfied with how it looks, feels, and sounds. Still some vibrations to work out, but I bet adjusting my REV 75A lower engine mount bushings will help.
There was a bit of effort involved, but nothing too terrible The hardest things has been putting up with the extra vibration caused by the FMIC + REV engine mount bushings.
yes, i know. I ended up switching back to stock my 75A cause of it. I get no vibrations whatsoever now. I also insulated one the ac pipes that was making close contact w the hot pipe coming from the fmic. It seems to b working so far.
Could you get photos of the insulation you did? Maybe write a DIY? Get it added to the FMIC thread? That would be amazing.
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