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Discussion Starter #1
I've been searching for a while and can't quite find some answers I'm looking for.

Some ECU maps were posted in a different thread showing that even at reasonable IATs on a hot day the ECU will lower it's boost target by like 3+ psi and decrease timing advance. Not sure how much timing is pulled.

So based on some overly generalized standard timing and power per psi estimates, IATs of say 120*F could result in 25+ whp lost pretty easily. And a 90*F day could easily see 120*F+ IATs.

So IATs can be lowered a couple ways, an active method (water/methanol injection, intercooler sprayer) or a passive method (lowering radiant heat).

Some of the ways seem a bit gimmicky and other don't. There's no denying the results of water/meth injection or elimination the coolant lines from the throttle body.

What I'm curious about are what are some other methods of lowering IATs and what kind of decreases could be expected?

I've been thinking about wrapping either my cold pipe or my upper coolant hoses. It seems like there would be a lot of radiant heat in that area. I know others have done that but does anyone know if and how much it helps?

What about venting the pcv line to atmosphere? I've heard it can help but how much?

Any other ideas? It would be kind of nice to get a good list together of all the options. I know there's already a lot out there but even after days of wading through old threads I haven't really come up with too much.
 

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waits for @trdtoy to chime in, he's very knowledgeable on lowering IAT's :):)
 

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I find it hard to believe you looked for days on this forum and you have not come up with much on this.....

My gut tells me this is just a push for me to make a how to keep things cool thread to be stickied.....
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I find it hard to believe you looked for days on this forum and you have not come up with much on this.....

My gut tells me this is just a push for me to make a how to keep things cool thread to be stickied.....
Lol. I looked for days about a few particular things. Intercooler sprayers was a big one. Wrapping cold pipes and/or upper coolant hoses. And a few other things. Lots of speculation. Not much good info.

Intercooler sprayers I came to a conclusion on. Wrapping cold pipes or coolant hoses I didn't. Intake I have. Wmi I have.
I know there's more info out there.
Another interesting idea I saw on a forte forum was an intake manifold heat shield someone made.
The engine cover I've seen similar tests done both resulting in opposite findings.
 

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Insulate anything that gets warmer than ambient in the engine bay but nothing that handles air after the turbo. Priority is the items that get the hottest.

Vent the engine bay to let hot air out efficiently as well as feed the engine bay ambient air to aid in cooling.

Bypass coolant from the intake manifold and the throttle body.

Run colder thermostat with higher water content coolant with water wetter and a higher psi radiator cap.

Get air at the filter inlet as cool as possible. Insulate the intake to the turbo inlet and/or use materials that do not conduct heat easily.

Be sure the charge air side components are very efficient at cooling the air. This means thin wall highly heat conductive hot and cold pipes and efficient intercooler. This area is crucial to get the most iat drop.

From there you're looking at injectables such as water/meth, N2O, or CO2 to aid in cooling from inside/outside the air handling components.

Making the car as light as possible, aerodynamic as possible, using components that flow as good as possible, and cool as good as possible will also lower overall heat to deal with. Less work done = less heat created.

This is the readers digest version on the main things. I may or may not be able to provide further details if needed.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Insulate anything that gets warmer than ambient in the engine bay but nothing that handles air after the turbo. Priority is the items that get the hottest.
This part seems super logical. I feel a little silly for not realizing that. So heat wrapping the cold pipe wouldn't make that much sense I guess.

I really need to get an infrared thermometer and just check everything after some driving.
 

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Hood vents work great for releasing hot air from the engine bay.
I installed these on my car and there's a major change for the coolant system and some on the iat readings.
The differences was worth cutting holes in the hood with zero regrets. 👍
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Hood vents work great for releasing hot air from the engine bay.
I installed these on my car and there's a major change for the coolant system and some on the iat readings.
The differences was worth cutting holes in the hood with zero regrets. 👍
Nice!
If my car was a race car I might consider it.
 

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Water/meth example with OEM intercooler of heat soaking the car then iat dropping quickly when getting on the highway. Staying 30 below ambient at 60 mph is not bad either.
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Discussion Starter #12
Thats pretty impressive. Are you triggering your wmi at a certain boost level or by some other method?
 

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This is just rpm and boost/vacuum during the above trip for reference as it's harder to see what boost/vacuum is doing in the other screen shots. But yes, kit activated to start spray at 1 psi in the trip above.
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I dunno, I pull 17-18psi boost all day regardless of IAT and I am in FL. When I am sitting at a long signal light and the intake starts soaking up heat I take it easy for a minute while it cools back down though. I run higher ethanol though and that results in lower combustion temps overall though.
 

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Higher ECT and IAT will make the tune pull boost/load and timing. Boost does not equal power in these cars. How the tune respond to parameters can change things a good bit.
 

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I dunno, I pull 17-18psi boost all day regardless of IAT and I am in FL. When I am sitting at a long signal light and the intake starts soaking up heat I take it easy for a minute while it cools back down though. I run higher ethanol though and that results in lower combustion temps overall though.
Also in Florida. To parrot what Trdtoy said, the car does lose power with higher IATs. Running on E85 does help, but doing everything to get IATs down to ambient or below is crucial for reliable power.
 

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Also in Florida. To parrot what Trdtoy said, the car does lose power with higher IATs. Running on E85 does help, but doing everything to get IATs down to ambient or below is crucial for reliable power.
Well yeah, of course lower temps mean denser charge and more power. That’s true for all ICE. I was just pointing out that I do not see my boost level restricted just due to the IAT.
I am not on E85 btw.
 

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On a stock tune near sea level and high iats the boost drop will be minimal if datalog a car but power will be lower from air density and timing being pulled due to iat, ect, and knock sensor activity.

On a car with a tune things can get a little more dramatic based on how the tune is setup.
 
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