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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Took some pics of my M&S Mesh Grill install today so here's my write up.* I was doing it on the fly so I'm sure there are tools or areas I could have done better so please comment if you have something to add.

I got this grill from Socal Garage Works and it was about $100 cheaper than the other options.* Now, I can see a couple reasons why that might be but I'll get into that later.*

I'm also going to go over the Pierce Crash Bar install as well.

The tools I used:

10mm and 12mm socket/wrench
Philips head screw driver
Tin slips
Drill
3/8th drill bit
Philips head bit
Zip ties
Plastic weld

The grill comes with 3 pieces that are all primed black.* For my purposes I didn't need any of the shielding for the crash bar or the license plate mount... so I threw those in the trash.
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So to start, you remove the bumper.* There are other DIYs for this so I won't go into details but I will remind ya to disconnect the fog lights.
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Get comfortable with where you put the bumper and get ready to be there a while.* First thing that has to go is the foam padding... trash!
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Next, you'll be staring at a literal sea of Philips screws and clips.* All of the screws have to go.* I ended up using the drill and a Philips bit to get through them quickly.* These screws hold two layers of redundant support, for what I don't know, but you will only need the radiator shroud.* Follow the pics below for the order of pieces removed.* (NOTE:* you will only need a hand full of the screws you removed to install the new grill)
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Next you'll need to pop the stock grill out.* Flexing the bumper helps loosen the clips but you'll find you have to use some mild force to release all of the clips.
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You've come to the point of no return.* There is a chunk of plastic that spans the grill void.* The M&S grill will NOT fit if you don't cut this out (or at least I couldn't see how it would).** Doing some test fitting you do not need to preform a clean job removing this section of the bumper as the frame of the grill will completely cover it.* I used a pair of tin snips.* Now your ready to start installing the grill into the bumper.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
The mesh on the grill is not attached to the frame.* It uses metal tabs that fold up and grip the mesh.* Go ahead and remove the mesh as it will just get in the way.*
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The long plastic tabs on the frame will slide right into the slots that the original grill clipped into.* Here's where I had to get creative and feel there's plenty of room for improvement on my process.* There's no clips to hold the frame into the bumper so here's how I did it.
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Since the mesh can be removed I didn't see a need to ever have to remove the frame so I proceeded in a way that would permanently seat the frame.* First issue was getting the frame to seat fully onto the bumper and stay there.

To do this I reinstslled the mesh.* Be sure to install it level so it doesn't look off when finished.* With the mesh level fold the metal tabs back around the mesh.*
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To keep the grill in the bumper I ended up using the screw holes on the bumper and a few zip ties through the excess material on the mesh to hold the grill in place (don't over tighten the ties).*



With this done I still had gaps around the frame of the grill so I decided to reuse some of the extra screws (hind sight, bolts would work well and be easier to tighten).* Using one hand, push the frame into the bumper and with the other mark 4 spots (one at a time) on the grill frame tabs on the left and right side of the grill.* Dexterity it's tough so after marking the locations, push the grill forward and drill pilot holes in the tabs.
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From here, push the grill frame back in and use the screws to hold the frame flush in place.* Next I used plastic weld on the rest of the tabs to further seat the frame in the grill.
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The grill is installed in the bumper.... congrats, the hard part is over.
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Next you need to reinstall the radiator shroud.* As with the bumper, the tabs slide right in place on the shroud but alignment of the two screws on the outside is a little tough.* (NOTE: I wouldn't use the drill to reinstall the screws)
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With these back in, the whole top section of the grill felt flimsy so I got creative again.

Using the same drill bit as before and extra screws, I drilled holes through the tabs of the grill frame and the rad shroud.* Then I took a couple of the extra screws and screwed them into the new holes which added a lot of extra support for the bumper.* I only did 2 but you could easily do all 4.
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The bumper is now ready to go back on.* However, having completed this with the Peirce Crash Bar I'm not sure if the grill would fit over the stock crash bar... so good luck.

Next up is replacement of the crash bar.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
This is a quick, simple install.* You'll need you 12mm socket and a breaker bar helps but isn't necessary.* On each side of the crash bar there are four 12mm bolts and one 10mm nut.*

Loosen and remove these bolts, the 10mm nuts are there to help support and align the crash bar, further adding to the illusion that it weighs a ton.*
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Don't forget to remove the 10mm nuts holding on the horn and the lower brace before removing the 10mm nuts on the crash bar.* You can also ditch the IC shroud or modify it.* I ditched it since my new one will have a metal one.
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Install of the Pierce crash bar is the reverse of the removal, except the center support is gone and the the mount for the horn has moved a little.
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Discussion Starter #5
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With the crash bar in place the bumper is ready to go on.* Replace the bumper and all of its hardware (remember to hook up the foglights) and your done!
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So, issues...

1. No instructions... at all.
2. As you can see in the pic the mesh is pushing against the Pierce Crash Bar,* which, holds on the Pierce logo but may make it hard to fit an aftermarket FMIC or horns of they mount to the crash bar.* This is a result of how far the mesh sinks back into the grill.
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3. The design of the top of the grill, like the others, exasorbates the sagging bumper issue and is even worse if your headlight clips don't work.* It's not a deal breaker but noticeable for the owner.
4. Nothing securing the frame to the bumper except your creativity.
 

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Nice write up... I ordered that grill. That sag is going to drive my ocd off the chart. Will have to see if I can come up with a way to decrease that gap.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Nice write up... I ordered that grill. That sag is going to drive my ocd off the chart. Will have to see if I can come up with a way to decrease that gap.
It's due on mine mostly because of the bumper sag. All of my passenger headlight clips are busted and I've had to move over to full quick release to still be able to hang the bumper. The tire I hit o-so-long ago did way more damage than I could see. I was able to adjust the hood a little to lower and still had room to go.
 

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Good write-up @bigbird. Here is a picture just clarifying what needs to be cut and an alternative method of afixng the grill to the radiator shroud. Please note: these are not my photos, I managed to source these from the web earlier.

GrillSum.jpg
 
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always a pleasure reading your DIYs, bigbird. that grille looks nice!
 
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I snapped the tab off of the radiator shroud trying to do this install. $126 later I'm ready to try again tonight. Let's see if it goes better this time around. I have also noticed the fitment at the top with the new grill, the bumper, and the radiator shroud isn't great. I kept ending up with a gap on both sides of the shroud where you could see behind the grill frame before I snapped the screw tab on it.

One positive I do see with this kit is that you can swap your mesh out to anything you want which I like due to the way it just clips on with the metal tabs.

There are directions for install at: M&S Replacement Tuning Grille for Hyundai Veloster Turbo [PAINTED] just scroll to the bottom of the page.
 

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It's due on mine mostly because of the bumper sag. All of my passenger headlight clips are busted and I've had to move over to full quick release to still be able to hang the bumper. The tire I hit o-so-long ago did way more damage than I could see. I was able to adjust the hood a little to lower and still had room to go.
Here something that will help man those factory supports are weak
WP_20160909_001.jpg WP_20160909_002.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I snapped the tab off of the radiator shroud trying to do this install. $126 later I'm ready to try again tonight. Let's see if it goes better this time around. I have also noticed the fitment at the top with the new grill, the bumper, and the radiator shroud isn't great. I kept ending up with a gap on both sides of the shroud where you could see behind the grill frame before I snapped the screw tab on it.

One positive I do see with this kit is that you can swap your mesh out to anything you want which I like due to the way it just clips on with the metal tabs.

There are directions for install at: M&S Replacement Tuning Grille for Hyundai Veloster Turbo [PAINTED] just scroll to the bottom of the page.
Not sure if I'm thinking of the same thing but that's why screwed the grill frame to the radiator shroud using the tabs on the frame. No gaps... cept for the hood.

I may have to get/ make some brackets if thesee new headlights don't solve the problem.
 

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I busted the tab on the radiator shroud that screws into the bumper cover. New shroud came in and I got the grill installed. I used exploding rivots to attach the grill frame tabs to the radiator shroud. I have a 2013 so I don't know if there is subtle difference in the way the bumper curves, but I still have a small gap on the one side of the grill frame and radiator shroud. I built bumper supports to hold all my shit up nice and tight. No gap between hood and grill. Someday, I will get pictures of everything I've done up here on a build thread. It's only been 2.5 years since I joined the forum, haha!
 

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Oh my god that looks amazing. Also, Which front lip is that?
 

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Wrecked my brickless OEM grill... so went ahead and bought an M&S... This write up has been super helpful. Going to spend some time getting the fitment right this weekend.
 
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