I've seen Camaro guys and Mustang guys tune for this lumpy idle for that cammed sound. 🙄Lumpy idle, ie "ghost cam" as referred to by many, is mostly adjusting the tune so that the valve timing has more overlap. It will change emissions in that area of the tune but not sure what will change or by how much. It will pass inspection though.
I am Loving the info you're putting on here!!! Do you know of any reputable references in regards to A/F or Lambda values? Is there a good way to record/map out lambda in real time driving applications so someone may be able to adjust accordingly??Sufficient knock suppression
The ecu will adjust ignition timing +/- and thus power output +/- by itself based on the amount of knock the engine has at any given time. Higher ignition timing equals more power, lower ignition timing equals less power.
High octane fuel
Higher octane fuel resists knock thus allows the engine to run higher ignition timing without knock than lower octane fuel will allow. This is one reason why 93 octane fuel will make more power than 87 octane fuel.
Proper air fuel ratio
The VT ecu operates on lambda instead of air fuel ratio. 1 lambda is 14.7 air fuel ratio on pure gas with 0 ethanol added. Most pump gas now has 10% ethanol which lowers the air fuel ratio at 1 lambda to 14.1. For simplicity let's stick to the pure gas scale.
The range of the air fuel ratio to not cause knock or suppress knock will be in a small range. This air fuel ratio range will usually be from the 10's to 12's. Below somewhere in the 10's will actually cause something called rich knock. Being too rich(below 10's) in general will kill power and knock kills it further. Being too lean(12's and higher) in general will kill power and at some point will cause knock that will kill power further.
Lets say a tuned VT makes 250 whp with 11.5 air fuel ratio and does not pull any timing. Car is leaned out to 12, makes 255 whp, and does not pull timing. Lean it out to 12.5, makes 250 whp, but pulls timing. Now it's not safe as the ecu is now pulling timing from insufficient air fuel ratio. The safe afr would be the point just below where the ecu will pull timing due to knock in a given scenario/conditions.
Now the same VT is richened up to 11 air fuel ratio, makes 245 whp, and does not pull any timing. Richen up to 10.5 air fuel ratio, makes 240 whp, but now pulls timing. Not only is more fuel to make less power inefficient, but richening to the point to cause knock is dangerous just like being too lean.
The oem tune has the air fuel ratio in an efficient area to make power safely in a very small area. Most areas and conditions it will have fueling too lean and at other times too rich. Some aftermarket tunes widen this area of making safe efficient power and some do not do as well.
This adds air density and mass air flow at a given air flow from intake air cooling, which can be referred to earlier, and knock suppression through in cylinder cooling from the water, or the same plus added octane from methanol. Methanol cools better than water and has more benefits of the added octane which is why higher methanol content will make more power. Water on the other hand will cool things better inside and after the cylinder. Meaning it will also help lower the temperature of the turbo and exhaust gasses so things live longer.
Colder/more efficient engine coolant
The colder and more efficient the coolant the more timing and power the car will make due to less knock. Stock engine coolant tends to run in the 180°F area. Better thermostat and coolant will lower those by roughly 20°F. Doing this along with a more efficient coolant will allow in the area of 1°-1.5° more timing and usually nets 3-5 whp more.
Colder heat range plugs
The VT first came out with a heat range 6 plug which is a hot plug. In the 14 MY they went to a colder heat range 7 plug to help resolve misfires/knock. In the 16 MY they went to a colder heat range 8 plug to further resolve issues with misfires/knock.
The colder the plug the more efficient the plug is at staying cool. The cooler the plug the less chance of the plug being a hot spot in the cylinder to cause misfires/knock and thus power loss. The con is if you run the plug too cold it can get build up and also cause a loss of performance over time. So best to match the plug to what will work best for the car.
Yes a tune is capable enough to drive the car the way you want it. That's the tuners job to know what they're doing and make it a beast on the streets on Mexico or go to get your groceries.Is a tune capable of 380whp reliable enough to daily? Does babying the car become more a concern for the driver? Is the car less likely to fail if you're rarely reaching max effort due to changed driving habits? And if that's the case then is it better to have a tune you can go flat out in that's "safer"? Things like that are my concern for this power range.
What takes the most brunt of the load with an engine with that much power it wasn't designed for are the con bearings, rings, and pistons. Higher boost levels will take its toll on those components.Lol trust me, I'd be working with him if he was actively working on my unique situation.
Yeah I have head studs and gasket. I'm just unsure of the piston, rods, and bearings part.