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You know when that XE catch can dual/single will be ready, really looking to get one in this summer.
 

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Do you have pics somewhere of your dual catch can setup? Im new here, still figuring out this forum format, lots and lots of info to search thru but I need the info now �� as time for searching is leading me nowhere real fast... also, I have the 2016. Manual tech package, bought in Oct. Last year, brand new and already have 12000 miles, and its fully stock. Could you tell me what I need in way of upgrades to protect and maintain the turbo and engine ? I dont race, but i do put 500 miles on the interstate commuting weekly and drive at speeds 80 to 90mph... im always running late. I also drive those speeds in 6th gear and now i learn of lspi.... tell me im not damaging my engine please??
This is an old picture but most is the same. The small filter on the right (breather) OCC has been replaced with a fuel hose going down under the car so the vapor blow out under the car and don't smell up the engine bay and in turn the passenger cabin.

VT%20engine.jpg
 
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So I got my sensor this weekend, drove it around a bit. I've only put probably 30 miles on it so far. I still cannot build revs smoothly from 800-1500, it still jumps straight there but I have noticed the "low speed lift shudder" is gone. When cruising in a neighborhood in 3rd around 30mph and I let off the gas, it'll hesitate and shudder, but now that's gone. i'll give it more time to see if the car gets better. Like someone said earlier, maybe the car needs to "learn" it. Might pull the battery when I do my oil change here in a few days to help it along. It also used to hesitate a bit in 2nd around 5k while doing a WOT pull, that's smoothed out as well.
 

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I pulled my factory sensor and it was really clean (I'm at 19xxx miles). So I just used some cleaner and put it back on. I did not notice any difference. I did not have OCC until very recently too.
 

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I pulled my factory sensor and it was really clean (I'm at 19xxx miles). So I just used some cleaner and put it back on. I did not notice any difference. I did not have OCC until very recently too.
I don't think it was a question of the sensor being dirty. The new updated sensor is calibrated differently or increments differently thus smoothing out the responsiveness noticeably.
 

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I don't think it was a question of the sensor being dirty. The new updated sensor is calibrated differently or increments differently thus smoothing out the responsiveness noticeably.
Makes sense! Perhaps I will order a new one on a rainy day.
 

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Makes sense! Perhaps I will order a new one on a rainy day.
It's a known fact that products ordered on rainy days are of lesser quality :crazy:

Just as a comparison. I have 30k miles and my sensor was spotless as well. Probably due to having good catch cans from day one but even though it was clean I still noticed the difference. It's probably why the newer VT's are using that sensor now.
 

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I ordered the one from China... or was it South Korea? I wasn't paying attention when ordering. It was 15 bucks and it actually smoothed out the power delivery. Maybe not completely but the car does indeed deliver power like a normal.

So thanks to the OP and everyone who discovered this and tested this out for us! It's cool the we lesser 2013s can enjoy better drivability with as little as $15 (and some trust).
 

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I bought one of the $20 Chinese sensors a while back and after 12k or so I just had an 02 sensor go bad. It was replaced under warranty and the car seems to be running fine but I'm concerned there may be some connection there. I've put the original sensor back on my car but I might order a genuine sensor through my dealership if I can confirm that the part number has changed. Looking at the online parts suppliers it would seem as if it was in fact replaced at some point even for 2014's.
 

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Faulty map sensors can cause O2 sensor failures.

Still baffles me why people change sensors without any proof or diagnosis of said sensor being bad. Then when they do replace the sensor, faulty or not, they do so with a knock off variant.
 

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If the car was running so rich as to foul the o2 sensor, you'd probably notice. My other questions still apply, but damn, no one ever answers any questions around here. This board is dead lol.
 

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If the car was running so rich as to foul the o2 sensor, you'd probably notice. My other questions still apply, but damn, no one ever answers any questions around here. This board is dead lol.
I answered what I could.....
 

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One measures the IAC temps and the second measures pressure in the manifold. The old number was hesitant on the manifold on my 2016.
Regarding the map sensors:

Both are capable of measuring iat and pressure if in the manifold position, but will only measure pressure in the charge side pre TB. Also the chances are high if you do not have the updated sensor in the manifold that the one in the charge side pre TB is the updated sensor. So swapping them is the cheap/easy test/fix if you think you're having issues.
 

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So, are people still replacing this MAP sensors with the part # for the boost sensor? I looked up the parts online from one of those Hyundia online parts places... they are still listing 39300-84400 as the boost sensor and for the map there listing 39300-2g100, and it cost 10.00 more then the boost sensor... now the map on my car is 393-2g000, so looks like they change it from 2g000 to 2g100.

strange thought if you search for 393-2g000 it's brings up the 39300-84400 and says it replace the 2g000....but if you look at the parts finch, it's just shows the new 2g100 part. well guess I will have to get one now... looking on ebay, I so a bunch for under 15.00 but look like knock off's, the ones that are in the oem box and ship from korea are going for $38.xx now...
 

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Hi guys, I have the 2017 Kia Pro-cee'd with the same 1.6t-gdi engine Kia have not updated the sensor on their version of the motor. I have done this map sensor update(manifold) and it has smoothed out the flat spots which brings me to the reason for joining the forum, earlier in this thread somebody talked about the RCV control solenoid upgrade does anybody have any info on this as the car seems to be running slightly low boost (14psi) I am told this is normal boost for this motor which I think is a little on the low side I would expect 17-20psi but this is from past experience a long time ago with a 1.6 Lancia delta turbo and old Ford 1.6 turbo's. any other tweeks for a bit of extra boost that you veloster turbo guys know of would be greatly appreciated a couple of extra psi never hurt anyone.
 
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