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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
Up to you if $ for upgraded shocks will be worth it or not.

I'd keep the oem pump and line until you have issues or need them. Unless going to run higher E fuel then I'd upgrade both the pump and the line. I say this with some hesitancy as I'm not sure if the DCT will slip before the fuel demand of E85 will overcome the need of a pump and line or not. So I only say this to be better safe than sorry.
I can confirm on my current tune by X i was putting in 4.6gal of e85 & the rest shell or chevron of 91 gas. Every fill up I also put in 25mL of AR600 Archoil. Never had a slip on my DCT. It was just a hassle to do these 3 things when filling up sometimes.

This time around i wanna avoid such hassle & from what your saying that simply utilizing 91 only will be best for safe power?
 
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Option 1 91 only: No fuel system changes. Will make good power in cooler ambient but will dimish quickly with iat rise.

Option 2 91 + water/meth: No fuel system changes. Will make good power in any ambient conditions. Very little power reduction with rising iat.

Option 3 Higher E fuel: Require fuel line and fuel pump change. Good power in any ambient with some reduction due to iat rise.

Option 4 Higher E fuel + water/meth: Require fuel pump and fuel line. Good power in any conditions with little reduction in power due to iat rise.

On a 16 DCT VT I'd suggest option 2 as being the best for your situation. Will have roughly same $ involved as having to run higher E fuel but will make more power on any given day and less hassle involved overall (just fill gas tank and water/meth tank). Tune can be setup to be safe on 91 but then add power with water/meth active. Or can be tuned for running water/meth all the time that will make more power. Or have a tune for both. I do not charge much like other companies do for addendum tunes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
Thank you @trdtoy for the detailed information. That helps me understand alot more.

I understand the benefits of water/methanol, but need to know if I can source "the juice" in my area (Santa Barbara/Ventura) Ca. I would daily drive the vehicle & kind of don't want to worry if I always have water/meth always in the tank before or after work. My drive round trip is about 90 miles & I do take long trips north and south in Cali. A 50/50 mix would be ideal, but really have no knowledge on consumption &/or if I ever run out of the mix.

Just to confirm, you do have a way for a full e85 tune? I read your concerns doing so regarding the DCT & of course swapping out lines and pump as well.

I guess since I'm at such high mileage I should consider how long the car is going to last as well and may just go the 91 only route to deter from maintenance of a meth tune.
 
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No need to run methanol for DD. That can be reserved for track, racing, or dyno. Water only will work well enough. Also when using a mix do not buy a mix. Buy VP M1 from a race shop that orders fuel so you do not get stuck with a delivery and hazmat fee. Then mix with water as needed. Otherwise run 100% distilled water which is cheap and easy to source. Any of this can be carried with you as well if needed. Consumption will be up to around 20% that of fuel used depending on how agressive you set it up. Filling the tank of the water/meth kit, checking for periodic leaks, and checking/cleaning the kit periodically is the only maintenance.

I do not have the maps needed for full E85 tuning on the DCT cars without throwing a CEL. The auto and manual cars I can do any fuel no problem.
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
Look's like I'll be going with Option 2. Thank you @trdtoy for being so thorough in your explanation of outlets.

I've already DM'd you for price & setup. But want to know if it's a better idea to have a reservoir/tank mounted in the truck. I believe I saw a picture of someone's VT with a tank right in the middle of where you open the trunk towards the bumper?
 

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In the trunk area is an easy place for a tank to be. I mounted them in various locations before. All up to the user and where they want it based on function and looks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
I'm saving up for the meth kit, & almost done with everything else other than shocks.

I contacted KYB regarding the shocks they have for the VT because I am going to be putting on the GodSpeed Lowering springs.

I asked if Inches Lowered: Front: 1.4" Rear: 1.3" would suffice.

& the response was: "This would be over the 1” recommendation. We have not tested in this setup to confirm if it will work and cannot recommend it.

Suspension travel refers to the total travel in the shock (in other words the difference between the extended length and compressed length of the shock). 554384 has 4.72” total travel. When the car is sitting at rest in your driveway or garage, it should sit right in the middle of the total shock travel. From that point, you would want your vehicle to have about 2” of upward travel and 2” of downward travel. Lowering your car by as much as you said would take away a lot of downward travel, which is why we cannot recommend it."

Can anybody chime in & provide feedback on this or should I just get another set of OEM shocks & call it a day.

I also purchased a Whiteline rear sway bar & front endlinks.
 

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Why not yellows?
 

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·

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OEM to save $
If you plan to spend $ get a coilover setup which can be had for a similar cost as koni and springs anyway and end up with better results.
 

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im limited to yellows, if i wasn't running stock classes i'd move back to ksports.
 

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I've thought about pulling my rear koni yellows off and selling them. I still have stock fronts. I put them on my car in the spring and have driven less than 3k miles on them since I switched to working from home. Only thing is konis are significantly more expensive than kybs. $120 vs $350 just for the rears. So even at a big discount they would be more than new kybs.
 

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Listen guys, I am a 64 year old retired professional mechanic. I have ridden and raced dirt bikes, ridden and raced road bikes, competed in auto cross and time attack, owned, flown and built aircraft. Bottom line is that every driver and every car is different. You need to be VERY specific about what you are looking for. My Mazda 3 is modified, it is almost surreal how well it handles, yet it has very little power, therefore for most Americans it is a failure. We live in the land of HP, very few care about balance and handling. Then we have the group that is only interested in stance and appearance regardless of how the vehicle performs. You need to be painfully specific on what you are looking for. With autos the adage of you get what you pay for is stunningly true. Do you want pretty or do you want performance? You need to be brutally honest with yourself and make the decision early on. Godspeed is cheap and from any reviews I have read that is exactly what you get. The Koni yellows on my Mazda 3 made an amazing difference.
 

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Listen guys, I am a 64 year old retired professional mechanic. I have ridden and raced dirt bikes, ridden and raced road bikes, competed in auto cross and time attack, owned, flown and built aircraft. Bottom line is that every driver and every car is different. You need to be VERY specific about what you are looking for. My Mazda 3 is modified, it is almost surreal how well it handles, yet it has very little power, therefore for most Americans it is a failure. We live in the land of HP, very few care about balance and handling. Then we have the group that is only interested in stance and appearance regardless of how the vehicle performs. You need to be painfully specific on what you are looking for. With autos the adage of you get what you pay for is stunningly true. Do you want pretty or do you want performance? You need to be brutally honest with yourself and make the decision early on. Godspeed is cheap and from any reviews I have read that is exactly what you get. The Koni yellows on my Mazda 3 made an amazing difference.
My goal is typically to make my car more go-kart like in all ways. So basically, as responsive and agile as possible. Maybe I should crank my koni's up from full soft.
 

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there is a difference!!! in my car, the back is set at 1/2 stiff and the front is set at a quarter turn from soft. when i turn the fronts all the way up its like a roller skate lol
 

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You really feel the bumps vs full soft which soaks them a little. I have rspec springs.
 
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Discussion Starter · #38 ·
Thanks for all the feedback everyone.

Ok next mod question:

NST pulley?

Is it worth it?
 

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High $/hp mod. Should be done after the lower $/hp mods are done.

I have both pulleys no issues but little gains in these. If they offer different size pulleys it would have been a little better investment with better results.
 
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