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Discussion Starter · #61 ·
KYB Excel- G front struts have been purchased
 

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Discussion Starter · #62 ·
the overhaul continues...question:

should I consider control arms & inner and outer tie rods since I'm at 120k miles?

oh & wheel bearings since they are so inexpensive?
 

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2015 RB Accent-not so stock 🤫
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the overhaul continues...question:

should I consider control arms & inner and outer tie rods since I'm at 120k miles?

oh & wheel bearings since they are so inexpensive?
Inner tie rods rarely wear out. 🤷🏼‍♂️
Check the inner tie rod boots to see their condition and if they're in great shape then just replace the outer tie rods.
If they're bad you can replace the boots with a boot kit without having to replace the entire inner set. If a boot is broken then replace the inners otherwise they last the life of the car with good boots.
Id suggest you also replace the lower ball joint as well while you're in there.

Control arms are a yes but don't cheap out with low priced knock offs.
If you're replacing bearings get the Timken or Moog bearings with the Timken being the first choice. They're the best in the industry and one of my go to's for anything bearing related.
👍
 

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yeah, stuff like that you really have to get under disconnect and grab them ... even on my o1 rio crapcan the front end wiggle i had wasnt the innter tierods... it was the stupid rack. and then the remanufactured rack had the same problem. stupid ford parts!!!


fwiw i'm still running original tie rods and swaybar links, control arms and bearings :cool: when i put the konis on everything still looked fine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #65 ·
detailed after a whole year and 4 months
 

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Discussion Starter · #67 ·
UPDATE: Sold the GodSpeed lowering springs after receiving feedback that they are junk, so I'm gonna purchase some H&R's.

Finally got my Meth Inj. kit. Reached out @trdtoy for the more robust lines & fittings to make it more robust and reliable.

All that's left is a pair of spacers (might jus get 20mm in the rear since @SkyShadex isn't having any issues) & the Technafit braided steel brake lines.


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WAY TOO MUCH BOOST JUICE! Make your own to save $ if you plan to run a mix. VP M1 and distilled water.
 

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2016 Veloster Turbo DCT Ultimate
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I think he said he can't source any methanol nearby. Lol I mentioned it!

Yeah 20mm stock wheels? No problem ez fit!
 

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Discussion Starter · #70 ·
WAY TOO MUCH BOOST JUICE! Make your own to save $ if you plan to run a mix. VP M1 and distilled water.
can never have too much when it's complimentary & as @SkyShadex stated, source is 2 hrs away.

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Source 2 hr away is no biggie if you buy in bulk. Will be cheaper than buying boost juice! Cost ~$5/gallon to make 50% mix. How much is boost juice? Math class is in session..... :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #72 ·
Source 2 hr away is no biggie if you buy in bulk. Will be cheaper than buying boost juice! Cost ~$5/gallon to make 50% mix. How much is boost juice? Math class is in session..... :)
yes indeed! I got the boost juice for free, but when I do need to get more I will purchase in bulk :D

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Discussion Starter · #73 ·
Got some Stainless steel brake lines from a mom & pop shop out in Indiana called TechnaFit.



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Discussion Starter · #74 ·
Update:

I sold the GodSpeed lowering springs after hearing everyone's dismay. thanks to everyone for that.

I purchased some H&R lowering springs & H&R spacers 15mm front / 18mm back

I am pretty much set for my mechanic to install all my parts:
-Whiteline 18mm rear sway bar
-Whiteline Adjustable Front Sway Bar End Links
-AEM V3 Water/Methanol Injection Kit
-TurboSmart Kompact VR02 BOV
-RI Concepts Black eLine Series Drilled & Slotted Rotors
-RI Concepts Ceramic Brake Pads
-H&R lowering springs
-H&R spacers
-KYB Excel G Front Struts
-KYB Front Strut Mounts
-NonStopTuning Lightweight Crank Pulley & Water Pulley
-Rear OEM shocks
-BorgWarner K03 Turbo install
-Wheel alignment & balance
-Brake Fluid change
-Brake Line replacement



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Is the lightweight pulley a lightweight balancer or just a machined pully? I would like to find a lightweight balancer, I know many people use, and get away with the non balancer pully but I just do not want to risk a failed crankshaft.
 

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Is the lightweight pulley a lightweight balancer or just a machined pully? I would like to find a lightweight balancer, I know many people use, and get away with the non balancer pully but I just do not want to risk a failed crankshaft.
It is a machined pulley. I will be making pulley with damper in it like the oem after I get a few other projects out of the way.
 

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I would be very interested in that, please advise when available. At 64 years old I have been in this performance game for a long time. Sadly I believe many see the vibration damper as a device to make the passengers more comfortable and do not understand that it exists to dampen the cyclic crank loads.
 

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I would be very interested in that, please advise when available. At 64 years old I have been in this performance game for a long time. Sadly I believe many see the vibration damper as a device to make the passengers more comfortable and do not understand that it exists to dampen the cyclic crank loads.
I believe the true enthusiast that's building the car will know the purpose of the dampener and it's benefits. 😉👍
Having a lightened dampener is icing on the cake. 🎂👍
 

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Sounds like a class bump to me. Ugh I almost hate stock class!
 
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