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Discussion Starter #1
Has anyone other than me used the Lucas Sythetic Oil Stabilizer in their vehicles?
I used it in my 97 F-150 for 10 yrs., and sold it with 260k miles on it and never used a drop of oil, and never even had to go inside the inside to fix anything. so I know Lucas is good!
I am just curious if say a high grade Valvoline Syn-MAx oil w/ Lucas is just as good or better than the top of the line oils like Amsoil or Royal Purple?
 

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Has anyone other than me used the Lucas Sythetic Oil Stabilizer in their vehicles?
I used it in my 97 F-150 for 10 yrs., and sold it with 260k miles on it and never used a drop of oil, and never even had to go inside the inside to fix anything. so I know Lucas is good!
I am just curious if say a high grade Valvoline Syn-MAx oil w/ Lucas is just as good or better than the top of the line oils like Amsoil or Royal Purple?
-X- really has done a ton of research into this subject. What I have found in my short time here is that the 1.6L turbo Gas Direct Injected (GDI) engine in this car presents a very different set of rules when it comes to oils than anything else I have experienced up until this point.

I don't know what year VT you have, but read that link -X- posted on Low Speed Pre Ignition (LSPI) Risk Minimization. Oil selection plays a pretty significant part in contributing to LSPI.
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
First of all, thanks for all the replies!

I just used Mobil 1 Syn. Extended Performance and the Mobil 1 extended performance filter that filters 99%.
I do not know nearly enough about all of these numbers to know what exactly i should be looking for in a motor oil for this 2014 Veloster Turbo, so please let me know if I am making a major screw up by using this oil w/ Lucas Synthetic Stabilzer added in place of 3/4 qt. of the 4.8 qts of oil?

here are the Technical details on the Mobil 1 oil and then a link to the LUCAS, if you need to see them.

http://lucasoil.com/pdf/TDS_Pure-Synthetic-Oil-Stabilizer.pdf

MOBIL 1
SAE Grade 5W-30
Viscosity @ 100 ºC, cSt (ASTM D445) 10.6
Viscosity, @ 40 ºC, cSt (ASTM D445) 59.8
Viscosity Index 169
Sulfated Ash, wt% (ASTM D874) 0.8
HTHS Viscosity, mPa•s @ 150 ºC (ASTM D4683) 3.0
Pour Point, ºC (ASTM D97) -40
Flash Point, ºC (ASTM D92) 230
Density @ 15.6 ºC g/ml (ASTM D4052) 0.851
 

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right now I have Mobil 1 0w-40 in my '15 Turbo... but thinking of going AMSOIL, which 5w-40 would be the right one to get? I see 2, one says mid saps and the other full saps?
 

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or would the

Signature Series 5W-30 Synthetic Motor Oil be better? I see it meets the ; ILSAC GF-5, GF-4…; ACEA A5/B5, A1/B1 ect.... where the other dosen't only thing it is 5w-30 and now 5w-40... kinda feel better with the 40 for the turbo...
 

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I'm running PUP 0w-40 for a while now. Seems to be working well for me. Oil analysis in the last change says it's doing it's job.
 

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or or or... how about the ow-40?
Some engines can be damaged by running an oil that is too thin for cold start and warm-up running, especially with cold piston to bore clearances. For example there will be excessive piston and bore wear in the engine in my wife's Opel if anything less than a 10W30 or 10W40 is run in that engine, and similarly with my Triumph motorcycle which must run 10W40. There may be a reason why Hyundai specified 5W40, and often the 5W is more important than the 40.

I don't know why so many want to ad-lib with their cars. Hyundai is a big company which has built millions of cars and they aren't stupid. If the VT will run 0w30 or 0w40 or 5w30 or 5w40; don't you think they would put that in the handbook?

But it's your engine and not mine. Go ahead and run what your heart's desire.
 

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Well I'm going to go with the Amsoil signature 5w-30 or the 5w-40... I would rather the 40 but that's not in the signature series, and it also comes in a mid or high sap, I know X said between those 2 the mid sap, but is sap even good? or would the 30 be better?
 

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Some engines can be damaged by running an oil that is too thin for cold start and warm-up running, especially with cold piston to bore clearances. For example there will be excessive piston and bore wear in the engine in my wife's Opel if anything less than a 10W30 or 10W40 is run in that engine, and similarly with my Triumph motorcycle which must run 10W40. There may be a reason why Hyundai specified 5W40, and often the 5W is more important than the 40.

I don't know why so many want to ad-lib with their cars. Hyundai is a big company which has built millions of cars and they aren't stupid. If the VT will run 0w30 or 0w40 or 5w30 or 5w40; don't you think they would put that in the handbook?

But it's your engine and not mine. Go ahead and run what your heart's desire.
Where do you see that 5W40 is recommended? This image was snapped from the Hyundai manual page:

Screen Shot 2015-09-05 at 11.18.50 AM.png
 

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There is a TSB around here somewhere that Hyundai recommends to use 5w-40 in the car instead of 5w-30. If I remember right they went up to thicker because the 30 breaks down to be about a 5w-20 or so.
 

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There is a TSB around here somewhere that Hyundai recommends to use 5w-40 in the car instead of 5w-30. If I remember right they went up to thicker because the 30 breaks down to be about a 5w-20 or so.
I'm by no means an oil guy, but I'm not sure what the issue is with 5W-30 breaking down to the viscosity of 5W-20 if you're operating within the temps of the chart I linked in my last post. Furthermore, I tried to find the TSB you are referencing and (for the 2015 VTs) I could only find TSBs relating to the fuel line, range switch (not sure what that is) and an ECM software update. Is the TSB you mentioned only for the 13s? Can you find the TSB by chance?
 

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That's the nav not the Turbo:
So it is, good catch! Looks like they don't make PUP in 5W-40... bummer. Still, based on the research -X- has done, I don't feel worried about putting PUP in my VT. Thanks again for pointing out my error!
 

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I am switching today to the PUP 5w-30. I was running the Rotella but after what -X- said about if foaming I am swapping asap! I also got a filter and crush washer from the dealer. $6 including tax! I was paying over $8 for a WIX filter so I will be running OEM filters for now on.
 

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There is a TSB around here somewhere that Hyundai recommends to use 5w-40 in the car instead of 5w-30. If I remember right they went up to thicker because the 30 breaks down to be about a 5w-20 or so.
I went to the parts department of my closest Hyundai dealer to buy a filter and washer and they told me about the change in oil specification in Australia. In service 5W30 would break down 5W20 but the parts man said that there had been problems with excessive bearing wear in some engines. I told him I had been running 5W40 since the first service because I thought that a hot-running turbocharged engine would need the extra protection. You can't damage and engine with 40-weight but you can damage an engine with 30-weight.
 

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I am switching today to the PUP 5w-30. I was running the Rotella but after what -X- said about if foaming I am swapping asap! I also got a filter and crush washer from the dealer. $6 including tax! I was paying over $8 for a WIX filter so I will be running OEM filters for now on.
I bought a 12 pack of filters and washers from a Hyundai dealer on ebay.... at 15K I am almost half way through them...
 
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