[gsrdude]

And then Ill head out to kick the shit out of Betsy in the back yard. You will not have an issue running M1 in the car. UOA's to confirm a proper OCI

If you do not want to run a boutique oil (Meaning go to the store and buy your oil)
PUP, Rotella T6, M1 EP, HM, and TDT all have great additive packages

After that you're looking at your Gibbs, Motul, Amsoil, Brad Penn etc...

If I were to run any boutique oil on this platform it would be AMSOIL Euro Formulation 5w-40 Mid SAPS



Do yourself a "REAL" favor and head over to the BITOG forums and read countless VOA's and UOA's of the oils you are interested in and make an informed decision from there

 

[gsrdude]

Std M1 is junk and may very well sludge up after a long OCI agreed, however, their EP, HM and TDT as I stated do have very good packages.

My VT will never see a POA/Ester oil and like you said 0FG. If the engine lets go because of it (not going to happen) or the turbo (not going to happen). Hyundai can come pick it up and give me a loaner until my new engine is in and/or turbo is replaced.


Ive pulled motors apart, seen turbos, that have run STD M1 their entire lives and there was no sludge, no scoring, no nothing. As it is a factory fill oil on many performance cars of the early to mid 2000's. I will not use it after they took so much ZDDP out of it. The others though are fine though and always perform well even in dedicated racing engines


As I said you want info on an oil choice head over to BITOG forums and find countless VOA/UOA's on about any oil and platfor you can think of. Bound to be a lot of UOA's from GDI-T motors by now

 

[gsrdude]

I can agree with what you said here X. Def applaud you for your continuing research on VT specific dos/dont's, and from a guy that hasnt had his car together in quite some time no less.

Ok lets move along, nothing left to see here :wink:

 

[gsrdude]

I did a lot of research on which oil was what when I bought my Veloster turbo, because turbocharged engines will run hotter when running on boost, and therefore will cause more oxidation (thickening and sludge) in anything other than a genuine synthetic oil. I absolutely, 100% guarantee that way back in the dark ages, Mobil 1 was a Group IV synthetic oil, but when the Castrol case went through and it was possible to label mineral oil as synthetic, then Mobil 1 became mineral oil (Group III synthetic). It is mineral oil-based today. I found three genuine synthetic oils: Motul when it's labelled synthetic (rather than techno-synthesis), Amsoil Signature Series which is not readily available in Australia, and Australian-made Penrite Racing.

The main area where synthetic oils are significantly better is oxidation resistance, or the thickening of the oil and it turning to sludge. Even in modestly-powered, normally aspirated engines there is an advantage in running Group IV synthetic in order to minimise oxidation. The other advantage for all engines is better flow when cold which reduces engine wear. In Australia once you sort out the facts of oil base stocks, running Group IV synthetic is a non-decision. Mobil 1 can't be had in the required viscosity of 5W40 so we can rule that out. An equivalent would be Castrol Edge Group III synthetic, 5W40 5 litres costs $59.99. Motul X-cess 5W40 Group IV synthetic costs $75 for 5 litres, sot the cost differential between fake and real is small.

Couple things wrong here in bold.

1. I've pulled apart many many high HP Big boost (think 3-4X what your lil VT puts to it's wheels) Subie boxer, 4G63's, Boosted B-Series, etc... engines that have run 100k plus on M1, Shell Rotella, Castrol Syntec, Quaker State, etc... All the group 3 Hydrocraked oils you are mentioning here and Turbocharger/Engines had NO/ZERO/NADA sludge or nasty oil pan build up to speak of.

2. M1 has a 5w-40 oil Turbo Diesel Truck they call it. Works fine in gas applications as well API SM rating. Many subbie guys run this if the don't have access to Rotella T6.

LSPI aside (because that is not what you are discussing here), my point is those cars put oil through much more heat and stress than ANY VT ever has or ever will PERIOD

 

[gsrdude]

There's a difference between oxidated (thickened) oil circulating in the engine, and sludge forming on components in the engine. ALL oil oxidates, even PAO and ester, and the resulting thickened particles of oil continue to circulate through the engine while degrading lubrication. This can sometimes be felt after an oil change when an engine has marginally better performance: the oxidated and thickened oil has been drained and there is less drag on the oil pump. If this thickened oil is left long enough (that is if oil change intervals are disregarded), this thickened oil can settle on parts like oil pans.

The most we can do in terms of oxidation is to minimise the percentage that forms. A good used oil analysis that measures oxidation is essential to determine if the oil is up to the task and how often it should be changed. I have noticed that most used oil analysis in the USA don't include an oxidation value which makes those UOAs useless. My Motul UOA shows 13% oxidation after about 8,000km which is excellent.

Only European-standard ACEA A3 oils can be run in Veloster turbos and API ratings don't count. As we know Rotella oil (which isn't available in Australia) suffers from foaming at high revs, and I cannot understand why anyone would run any diesel engine oil designed for low-revving diesel engines in high-revving petrol engines. Even more moronic are some who run Rotella in motorcycle engines, some of which will do 18,000rpm. My motorcycle is relatively slow-revving but it still cruises at 4,000 to 5,000rpm with a redline of 8,000rpm, and some morons would attempt to run Rotella diesel oil in this engine.

Anyone can run the wrong oil for a period of time and cause no obvious damage, but when the engine prematurely loses compression or begins to burn oil then the damage has been done. Fred runs Mobil 1 and swears by it, but if you have a turbo engine with excessive wear after 150,00km then it's too late.

Complete utter absolute BS PERIOD.

The more you post it is blatantly obvious you do a lot of "reading" and just that "reading" you have no real world exp with High HP Turbo applications. Never have and no nothing about what keeps an engine together. Hint: Your engine is not going to magically last longer than someone else running a different oil. If you think this there is no hope for you. Sell your car and get a bicycle

Keep on reading all your useless theories while the people in the know keep making power

 

[gsrdude]

I just switched over to redline 10w40

I'd personally run a 5w-40 in the winter time then go to the 10w-40 in the warmer months. Assuming you're in MD winter still gets pretty damn cold. Though to be honest with you man you'll be long out of the car and moved on by the time you'd see any issues from the cold start wear

 

[gsrdude]

I have an oil pressure gauge and in warm weather, cold start, fast idle with 5W40 the oil pressure is 70psi, running 110psi at 2,500rpm, and even higher pressure at higher rpms. With 10W40 these oil pressures would be half as high again or even more, and the engine will almost surely be damaged. Do you not read your owners handbook? Do you not check specifications before doing things? If you don't know what you're doing then take the car to a mechanic who does.

Most new and re-designed engines over the past decade have small diameter oil galleries and require thinner oils.

Please just stop the nonsense, it's getting old

 

[gsrdude]

5w-40 is the correct weight for your Veloster Turbo. The Hyundai Bulletin stating so has been posted on here many times

 

[gsrdude]

Shell Helix is factory fill in most Ferrari's, go figure most owners switch that out for an M1 variant 10w-40, 0w-40, 15w-50. Local Ferrari shop who run Ferrari Challenge their race team all run M1 15w-50 on the track and in their F-40 street car, M1 10w-40 in their other street cars.