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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Has anyone other than me used the Lucas Sythetic Oil Stabilizer in their vehicles?
I used it in my 97 F-150 for 10 yrs., and sold it with 260k miles on it and never used a drop of oil, and never even had to go inside the inside to fix anything. so I know Lucas is good!
I am just curious if say a high grade Valvoline Syn-MAx oil w/ Lucas is just as good or better than the top of the line oils like Amsoil or Royal Purple?

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19 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
First of all, thanks for all the replies!

I just used Mobil 1 Syn. Extended Performance and the Mobil 1 extended performance filter that filters 99%.
I do not know nearly enough about all of these numbers to know what exactly i should be looking for in a motor oil for this 2014 Veloster Turbo, so please let me know if I am making a major screw up by using this oil w/ Lucas Synthetic Stabilzer added in place of 3/4 qt. of the 4.8 qts of oil?

here are the Technical details on the Mobil 1 oil and then a link to the LUCAS, if you need to see them.

SAE Grade 5W-30
Viscosity @ 100 ºC, cSt (ASTM D445) 10.6
Viscosity, @ 40 ºC, cSt (ASTM D445) 59.8
Viscosity Index 169
Sulfated Ash, wt% (ASTM D874) 0.8
HTHS Viscosity, mPa•s @ 150 ºC (ASTM D4683) 3.0
Pour Point, ºC (ASTM D97) -40
Flash Point, ºC (ASTM D92) 230
Density @ 15.6 ºC g/ml (ASTM D4052) 0.851

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
Some engines can be damaged by running an oil that is too thin for cold start and warm-up running, especially with cold piston to bore clearances. For example there will be excessive piston and bore wear in the engine in my wife's Opel if anything less than a 10W30 or 10W40 is run in that engine, and similarly with my Triumph motorcycle which must run 10W40. There may be a reason why Hyundai specified 5W40, and often the 5W is more important than the 40.

I don't know why so many want to ad-lib with their cars. Hyundai is a big company which has built millions of cars and they aren't stupid. If the VT will run 0w30 or 0w40 or 5w30 or 5w40; don't you think they would put that in the handbook?

But it's your engine and not mine. Go ahead and run what your heart's desire.

"Some engines can be damaged by running an oil that is too thin for cold start and warm-up running, especially with cold piston to bore clearances. "------------
-----------I am no mechanic by far but that's exactly why i have replaced 1 qt. of oil with 1 qt of Lucas every oil change on every vehicle i have had for the last 20 yrs or so. I know these cars are totally different than a Ford F-150, but one of my stand out stories is my truck started burning oil and i started using Lucas, and sold the truck with over 300k on it, and the guy is still loving the truck and continues using Lucas. I never have had to go into any engine i have ever owned , and i credit the Lucas for it! --------oh well, for what it's worth, that's my, "want 2 be" mechanic opinion anyway?

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
Mobil1 is a group III mineral-based oil and has been shown to cause sludge in this engine, especially if you go past 3000 miles.

The only group III oil I recommend is Pennzoil Ultra Platinum, as it is designed to protect against LSPI.

Ideally you want a group IV (PAO-based) or group V (ester-based) oil with the highest flashpoint possible.

I understand if you are a Mobil1 head from years past. I used to run it in non-GDI vehicles with no issues. However, it just isn't a good oil for this T-GDI engine.

I was just roaming around, because i finally got back to the "what type of oil to use next oil change," and come across this----
-------------"Mobil 1 is a good example of a high-end Group IV."----- (does group IV = PAO-based?)

So Are you 100% sure it's group lll ?
I also called and spoke to a mobil 1 rep about running it in my son's 2014 VT, and they pointed me to the extended performance syn., because it met Hyundai's requirements. Then told me how to do things to stay under their lifetime limited engine guarantee which includes using their ext. filter. and instead of 15k mile changes, i will change at 7,500.
(also in case your wondering, my son does not drive it very hard. He has to pay for his own gas now, so he is more worried about mpg than anything else! haha! XD)

As for the flash point, Mobil1 looks to be about as good as everything on the chart you provided above, other than the racing oil at the top.

Anyway, with me using the qt of Lucas with the mobil 1, are you still suggesting i should use that racing oil or eq. w/ higher flash point?
(i never hear anyone speak of Lucas additives on these forums? Idk why not? Lucas has proven it's products to me over the past 20 yrs or so!) I also never have had injector/carb problems at all by using their fuel treatments.
Anyway Other than the flash point, what else is the most important characteristic to look for in an oil? Viscosity,? density,? ect....?

Please know i do not want to come across as knowing what i am talking about, because i definitely don't! lol! All i can do is tell you what i read.
Thanks for reading!

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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
Just figured someone other than me may find this helpful?

I'm looking to set the record straight on that old chestnut: synthetic oil. It's a confusing topic, and there's a lot of rhetoric, largely because some manufacturers and peddlers of synthetics have made a lot of inaccurate and self-serving claims over the years. Some, actually a lot, of this rhetoric is pretty strident and opinionated.

Briefly, there are two types of "synthetic" oils on the market. Group IV oils consist of molecules that are synthesized from simpler chemical compounds. This lets the chemical engineers "tune" the characteristics of a lubricant to exact specifications. These oils flow more freely at extreme low temperatures and don't break down at very high temperatures. As a side benefit, they generally can be specified one or two grades lighter than a mineral oil, which consumes less energy as friction inside the engine and saves fuel. These are superior products, and command a premium price. Mobil 1 is a good example of a high-end Group IV. Group III lubricants are made from reprocessed petroleum products normally left over after making crude oil into gasoline, diesel fuel, heating oil and other products. They're more modestly priced, and have many of the desirable characteristics of the higher-priced spread. In much of the world outside the USA, Group III-based lubricants are not permitted to be marketed as "synthetic." Castrol Syntec is a good example of this type.

Want to use a synthetic--but experiencing sticker shock? You have two options: Hunt for sales and buy a case at a time, or use one of the synthetic "blends." With a substantial proportion of mineral oil in the mix, these are priced more affordably. They also provide only a proportion of the desirable characteristics of full synthetics.

Conventional mineral oils are simply one of the fractional distillation products from a barrel of crude, occasionally cracked from more viscous products in the refining process.

So, should you use synthetic oil? Depends. Some high-performance and high-end cars come factory filled with synthetic, and you should stick with it. If you live where it gets really frigid in the winter, you might be better off with a synthetic for its superior cold-weather starting. If you tow a trailer and your oil temperature is consistently above 200 F, you should use a synthetic oil and install an auxiliary oil cooler. I use mineral oils in my wife's car, but the race car and the motorcycles use synthetics. It's even more complicated than that--the race car gets a race-specific lubricant, with an additive package not intended for more than a few hundred miles between changes and not for very many cold starts. My Ducati, with its carbon-fiber-based dry clutch, uses an automotive-grade synthetic, while my wet-clutch Triumph uses a motorcycle-specific oil without friction modifiers. Wet-clutch bikes share the engine oil sump with the gearbox and clutch, so the friction modifiers used in auto-type oils might make the organic materials on the clutch plates too slippery and prevent good clutch lockup. If your driving cycle or your vehicle is more average, you probably can drive your car well past 200,000 miles without needing major engine work by using the proper grade of conventional mineral oil and appropriate change intervals.

But don't assume that if a synthetic is so good (read: very expensive) that you don't need to change it as often. The base lubricant may well be better, but the additive package, which can be as much as 25 percent of the volume of product in the bottle, can still become exhausted. And unburned fuel, partially burned hydrocarbons, atmospheric dirt, metal wear particles and blowby carbon particles will build up just as fast in a synthetic-lubricated engine as in one laved in petroleum-based oil. The only way to remove this stuff is to drain and replace the oil. I've always recommended 3000-mile oil changes, but I'm rethinking that. The air cleaners, the compression and oil-control rings and positive crankcase ventilation (PCV) in modern engines are better than ever. The air cleaners admit less abrasive atmospheric dirt, and closely fitted rings keep blowby and particulates above the piston and out of the oil. Sophisticated PCV systems are better at purging water vapor and partial hydrocarbons from the crankcase and burning them off in the engine, so I'm leaning more toward 5000 miles for most people with cars newer than about 1990 or so. As always, your mileage may vary.

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Discussion Starter · #62 ·
Reference URL?

From a glance that article seems outdated. Group III oils can indeed be marketed as full synthetic, even if they're not true synthetic (PAO/ester). cbrmale will be along shortly to tell you all about how Mobil1 full synthetics are Group III hydrocracked mineral oils.
As you can tell by my entry times, i don't get a chance to reply here that much, but wanted to let you know that i have paid close attention and taken heed to all that you have informed me of on this topic!
I really appreciate it and entirely believe you know whats up on the oils for this car!

With that said,before i buy some Amsoil i just noticed you had the CERMA STM3 logo.

I just watched a video that demostrated it's lubricity under somekind of weighted barren test, and the test against Lucas blew my mind!

So what you think about Cerma oil and the other Cerma products?

After watching the videos, i am scratching my head as to why every oil guru is not raving about it?
Seems to me to be even better that the Amsoil oil?---- or any other oil in the world after seeing that test!
What do you think?

PS: I am definitely kicking Mobil 1 to the curb on the next oil change!

Thanks for all the valuable info you have provided us all with, and sorry if i came across as not believing you.
I guess i have just been told soooo many different things about oils in my life, and can't seem to hide the fact that i have become a huge skeptic.
For instance, wth does the dealership use Hyundai SEMI-SYNTHETIC 5W-30 when they were changing the oil?(is there a good reason why?)---I ask them WHY? And they just said, "well that's just the way we have always done it!" I said, "oh ok thanks, see ya!" lol!:)

>>>>>>Oh one other quick question on the way out!>>>>What do you know about, "Liqui Moly 2037 Pro-Line Engine Flush?"
I am coming up on the next oil change and if there is any sludge in this engine i want it gone!

Thanks again man!

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Discussion Starter · #142 ·

I notice a CERMA ad at the bottom on here, and have looked into that oil and it sounds like even a better oil than the Amsoil. Actually to an ametuer like me, it sounded like the best oil out there!

So with that said, would you PLEASE let me know if I should go with CERMA for this VT?----(you probably already said what you use but i can't remember at the time, so what kind and wieght do you use?)-------Matter of fact, would you recommend it for any/all my vehicles, including my daughters 2010 VW Beetle, that they swear has to have a specific 502 oil? ------oF COURSE CERMA SAID IT WOULD MEET VW'S STANDARDS, BUT IT'S JUST HARD TO TRUST ANY COMPANY THESE DAYS! FOR INSTANCE CALL MOBIL ONE AND THEY WILL TELL YOU THEIR OIL IS THE BEST THING THAT EVER HAPPENED, AND WE KNOW THAT'S BS!

I will greatly appreciate it if you can help me figure this oil business out once and for all, because i am sick of being undecided about what is the best OIL?
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