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I just purchased a 2013 VT with 102K. I am going to be doing an oil change for the first time. Can anyone tell me if Pennzoil Platinum is a good synth to use and if so which one as there is Pennzoil Platinum, Pennzoil Platinum Euro, and Pennzoil Platinum Ultra. All three are currently on sale for $32cdn or less at my local Canadian Tire.
ultra!!!!
 

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Just so you know, Warren oil is the cheap shit the local gas stations carry.

Their MAG1 offerings all have NOACK readings of 12-13%. That's bad.

Flashpoint is 226-227° C. Average.

Calcium weight is .135% and judging by the percentage of the other elements seems to be comparatively high.
Their literature makes no mention of GF-5 Plus, nor GF-6 nor LSPI.

No mention of PAO (Group IV) or ester (Group V) base stocks.

I'd avoid it unless I was cutting it with CERMA oil and it would likely have to be like a buck a quart.
Any research done what the "AmazonBasics" 100% 5-30 synthetic is like ?
 

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Project Farm on YouTube tested a bunch of oils earlier this year. Warren makes AmazonBasics and Walmart SuperTech, which are practically identical.

Both are SN+, meaning they are anti-LSPI. Both tested surprisingly well.

AmazonBasics:

SuperTech:

Another AmazonBasics opinion:

Since they are both SN+, I would have no issues running either if I was needing to save some coin. Even less worry if you have treated the engine with CERMA for excellent anti-wear performance.
 

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We’ve also talked about Quaker State Ultimate Durability in the past. That product is now rated as SN+, so another anti-LSPI oil to consider.
 

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Already had Cerma treatment done last year. This time I decided to dump in some Amazonbasics oil since I had some amazon credits. Also not sure if this is a red flag, but I bought a K&N oil filter for $4.00. Kinda strange, being cheaper than any other brand.
 

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To briefly explain why it’s so clean... Traditional oils use dispersant additives to keep the burnt hydrocarbons in solution, which is why they turn dark quickly.

Cerma does not use dispersant additives; the burnt hydrocarbon particles coagulate into larger clumps so the oil filter actually does its job and catches them.

It also forms a microlayer of silicon carbide on the metal components it contacts (bearings, rings and cam lobes most crucially, etc.), which reduces friction and protects against wear.

 

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I'm surprised nobody hear has heard of the Microlon engine treatment, tranny, and fuel treatment.

I put this in the engine oil and fuel after my 5000 break in miles, did the required 100 mile break in process and have been happy with the product ever since.

Similar to Cerma in many ways by description, it's made the engine idle smoother, better highway roll on speed and got better gas mileage as well. 52mpg on a tank of gas was my best after the Microlon treatment and was running 40-45 mpg consistently in every gas tank prior to the treatment.
All this was prior to modding the car so mileage is now high 30's.

I did a lot of reading here on these forums about the Cerma product but I'd already used the Microlon few years earlier to hearing about the Cerma.

My main reason for the treatment was for dry start ups. I drive a over the road truck and gone for a month at a time so on initial start up when I got home I wanted some protection from dry start up.

I do plan on going with an Accusump 1 quart pre-oil setup soon anyway to alleviate any dry starts and maintain the longevity of the engine. This will also be most helpful when I'm turbo swapped too.

I've been running the Royal Purple HPS formula oil with good results so far.
I know the high zinc formula is no good for the catalytic converter but that too will be gone soon so no worries there.
Secondary cat is gone and main cat/ manifold will be soon too.
Any opinions on the Royal Purple? I've done tons of research on oils and honestly it's pretty confusing to say the least. 😂😉
 

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RP used to be good, now it’s just marginal and not true full synthetic. Funny thing is RP tried to buy out CERMA, which was originally created for trucking fleets.

I’m actually trying out some Rislone Nano Prime, which supposedly works in a similar fashion using tungsten & molybdenum compounds. It was tested by the ASTM with decent improvement for key metrics.


For $20, why not? Just adding a little bit at a time over the course of a couple thousand miles.
 

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My Hyundai dealer said they use Penzoil full synthetic for the 2019 and 2020 VT R-Spec. I'm not sure which grade Penzoil though, so I'll be calling back.
Should I let them do my oil change?
 

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I've let my dealership change my oil since new. I swiftly changed to PUP & used until 115k miles. Great oil, but have found some better oils out there such as Amsoil & Cerma.
 

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Just called them again, they use Pennzoil Platinum Euro LX 0w-30. I'm looking at my owner manual right now and nowhere does it say 0w is acceptable.
Edit: I live in northern Alabama, temps range from below freezing (rarely) in the winter to over 100 in the summer (on the reg).
 

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I called another dealership about an hour away, they use Quaker State 03-30. No idea what my local dealership is doing with that 0w-30 but that's why I'm not doing oil changes at the dealer.
 

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Some engines can be damaged by running an oil that is too thin for cold start and warm-up running, especially with cold piston to bore clearances. For example there will be excessive piston and bore wear in the engine in my wife's Opel if anything less than a 10W30 or 10W40 is run in that engine, and similarly with my Triumph motorcycle which must run 10W40. There may be a reason why Hyundai specified 5W40, and often the 5W is more important than the 40.

I don't know why so many want to ad-lib with their cars. Hyundai is a big company which has built millions of cars and they aren't stupid. If the VT will run 0w30 or 0w40 or 5w30 or 5w40; don't you think they would put that in the handbook?

But it's your engine and not mine. Go ahead and run what your heart's desire.
So what do you recommend using? My car is up for its first oil change and I want to use the best. Thanks
 
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