Motor oil recommendations?

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Reference URL?

From a glance that article seems outdated. Group III oils can indeed be marketed as full synthetic, even if they're not true synthetic (PAO/ester). cbrmale will be along shortly to tell you all about how Mobil1 full synthetics are Group III hydrocracked mineral oils.

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Pheonix-----
As you can tell by my entry times, i don't get a chance to reply here that much, but wanted to let you know that i have paid close attention and taken heed to all that you have informed me of on this topic!
I really appreciate it and entirely believe you know whats up on the oils for this car!

With that said,before i buy some Amsoil i just noticed you had the CERMA STM3 logo.

I just watched a video that demostrated it's lubricity under somekind of weighted barren test, and the test against Lucas blew my mind!

So what you think about Cerma oil and the other Cerma products?

After watching the videos, i am scratching my head as to why every oil guru is not raving about it?
Seems to me to be even better that the Amsoil oil?---- or any other oil in the world after seeing that test!
What do you think?

PS: I am definitely kicking Mobil 1 to the curb on the next oil change!

Thanks for all the valuable info you have provided us all with, and sorry if i came across as not believing you.
I guess i have just been told soooo many different things about oils in my life, and can't seem to hide the fact that i have become a huge skeptic.
For instance, wth does the dealership use Hyundai SEMI-SYNTHETIC 5W-30 when they were changing the oil?(is there a good reason why?)---I ask them WHY? And they just said, "well that's just the way we have always done it!" I said, "oh ok thanks, see ya!" lol!

>>>>>>Oh one other quick question on the way out!>>>>What do you know about, "Liqui Moly 2037 Pro-Line Engine Flush?"
I am coming up on the next oil change and if there is any sludge in this engine i want it gone!

Thanks again man!

Not sure if I posted this elsewhere, but I may have found a very good oil for our cars. Liqimolly Leichtlauf High Tech
Napa seems to be the place to get it, its a special order item and in my case I had to order a box (4 containers) of it.
5W40/5L AIC LM2332 | NAPA Auto Parts

It's a German oil and here is a quote from their webpage on it. "Ideally suited for modern petrol and diesel engines with multivalve technology, turbocharger and with or without charge air cooling. Especially suitable where there are long intervals between changes and heavy duty engine requirements."

The spec sheet reads exceptionally well. It has a better NOACK rating than everything on X's list except the Red line series of race oils. It also has an extremely good viscosity rating, which as I understand it means it will stay being a 5w40 longer and resist thinning out.
https://pim.liqui-moly.de/pidoc/P000330/3863-LeichtlaufHighTech5W-40-11.0-en.pdf

Thoughts? I like the stuff, I'm at 3000 miles on it now and will likely send out for a UOA soon to see how far I can take it next time.

Hey everyone,

I have been collecting some information that presents a different viewpoint about Amsoil than what has been presented here and in other threads.

Many people trust and use Amsoil signature series 5w-30. I myself was one of those people, but I am beginning to think very differently about this oil, and will probably not use it again.

First, I'm NOT saying that this is a bad oil and that you should stop using it immediately. But the data I am finding is suggesting that Amsoil signature series PAO oil 5w-30 is probably NOT the best oil for GDI motor applications, actually, it has a couple very negative characteristics when used in a GDI motor.

CALCIUM content in oil :
The currently available literature, white papers, and industry leading research projects have definitely noticed the high failure rate of GDI engines and looked into possible causes. There was found a positive correlation between the amount of calcium in the oil the frequency and duration of LSPI, knocking, detonating, and super knocking events. More calcium, more knocking. The research concluded that you should avoid oils with high calcium content.

On both my used oil analysis and virgin oil analysis of Amsoil signature series 5w-30, they report about 3200-3500 parts per million. The very popular Pennzoil platinum oil is around 1800-2200 PPM. So why would we want to use Amsoil oil that has almost twice the calcium content in it and that could stimulate LSPI and engine knocking??

ENGINE KNOCK AND PING :
My first tune was a BTRcc canned tuned and it worked. I was running Amsoil 5w30 and the tune was pinging/detonating while accelerating. On a hunch we changed the oil over to Penzsoil and immediately the pings went away.

FUEL DILUTION :
I send my oil to Blackstone and we've established that my car regularly sees about 4% fuel dilution in the oil. Consulting with Hyundai tech line and my dealership they said this is normal for GDI motors, and to get used to it. My issue is that with that much fuel in the oil, Blackstone is reporting that the viscosity of the Amsoil has dropped to a 5w20 viscosity oil after only 3500 miles of usage.

My Pennzoil used oil analysis reports did show fuel dilution but the viscosity was still stable, and had not dropped below 5w30... Why is the Amsoil so susceptible to fuel dilution, don't we want to avoid this characteristic of and oil in GDI motors?

My concern here is that with the lower viscosity you have a thinner oil film and less film strength to hold up again high sheer and high direct pressures, thus less engine protection.

LOW COMPRESSION :
When we got the last oil report back we decided it might be a good idea to check all four of my cylinders compression.. We did and they read at 155-160 psi compression, which is low. That day we swapped out the 3500 mile old Amsoil and dropped in fresh 5w-30 penzsoil... All 4 cylinders came back up to 174r-178 PSI.

EXHAUST / PAINT CONTAMINATION:
Every time I ran the Amsoil the back hatch of the Veloster, windows, paint, and exhaust would be covered in a yellow nicotine colored oil-like residue that would not wipe off. I had to use a degreaser / detergent at 100% strength to get the exhaust oil residue off.. It didn't matter if I was driving aggressively or slow there was still a residue afterwards. When I switched to Penzsoil, the only residue was little black soot dots that rubbed right off.

All these observations add up to one seemingly obvious conclusion. That with the high calcium, easily diluted by fuel viscosity, and other mentioned drawbacks, that Amsoil is exactly the type of oil we should be avoiding? Even though it is a PAO oil, that doesn't offset the other disadvantages...

Update: Penzsoil for 3 weeks now and my catch can's are not nearly as full as they usually are, and my pinging knocking noise is still gone...

Vince