Veloster Turbo Forum banner
101 - 120 of 240 Posts

· Registered
Joined
·
341 Posts
Cerma evo redline mix master race

Sent from my Galaxy Note 4
 
  • Like
Reactions: -X-

· Registered
Joined
·
615 Posts
Either of you running a catless downpipe?
 

· Registered
Joined
·
469 Posts
I'm running a catless
 

· Registered
Joined
·
615 Posts
Ok me too, just wondering if that could be a cause, guess not
 

· Registered
Joined
·
55 Posts
Well I truly don't know IF this is the correct Forum- but here goes - I have owned a 2015 Veloster R-Spec since July 2015 - traded in my 2012 Civic Si for it. The one I bought was a Hyundai Exec's car with 4400 miles on it - NOT a Dealer Demo but an Exec's car - as such it was slightly modified but the Dealer could not tell me HOW - had an "S" on the deck lip after the R-Spec emblem and a Tape Stripe on the front Left fender. In my opinion it is a really great car - absolutely equal in performance to the Si and much better in many respects - including the fact that it has NO "Rev-Hang" between shifts that the Si had and I was unable to completely fix. As far as Motor Oil - and I know this is a GDI/Turbo Engine - I have always used Royal Purple 5W-30 HPS Oil - and it worked the same in here as in many other HP cars over the years both Turbo and NA. My experienced mechanic always told me - "use good oil, use good gas (I use Shell Nitro Plus Premium), change the oil every 3000 miles no matter what, and when you have the chance always give it an 'Italian Tune-Up' " - over 10,000 on it now - never burns a drop of oil and never has ANY "Turbo Wave" issues………….really a NICE HP Car!!!
 

· Registered
Joined
·
511 Posts
Royal purple is not a good oil for these cars, or any really since they changed their formulation due to EPA regulations a few years back. Use Pennzoil Platinum 5w30 if you want to stick with common brands or step up to something like Motul 5w40 or Redline. Shell makes damn fine gas, good choice there.
 
  • Like
Reactions: swordfish

· Registered
Joined
·
55 Posts
Royal purple is not a good oil for these cars, or any really since they changed their formulation due to EPA regulations a few years back. Use Pennzoil Platinum 5w30 if you want to stick with common brands or step up to something like Motul 5w40 or Redline. Shell makes damn fine gas, good choice there.
HPS is the OLD Formulation not the newer EPA-conforming product and I've used it in my 1993 RX-7 R1 with very good results for the 10 years I had it after changing over from Mobil 1
 

· Registered
Joined
·
615 Posts
Comparison of catch can contents after 3500 miles...

Pennzoil bottle is much thicker and looks like "oil", with a viscosity somewhere between the original oil and water.

Amsoil bottle has what looks like foamy emulsified detergent and an "oil like" layer, but has the viscosity of straight up water with brown food coloring in it...

Oh and holy crap look how much more blowby and vapor was produced and captured with the Amsoil vs. The Pennzoil...

Really shocked to see this and glad I saved the contents of the catch cans for comparison....

Just an FYI, no axe to grind against any oil in particular.

 

· Registered
Joined
·
615 Posts
This is why more people should do their own testing.

Good stuff, V!
Yeah, I was really just blown away by the results of the test.... The motor in both my VT and my NA both ran great and felt solid/smooth on the Pennzoil before I had catch cans... This could be why
 

· Registered
Joined
·
895 Posts
After 20k miles, (catch cans around 6-8k miles in) I am making the shift from factory oil to Pennzoil Platinum which i will be applying CERMA engine and turbo treatments to, and then shifting to PUP or a group 4 or 5 oil (Or CERMA) and continue 3000-3500 intervals. Given my recent modding spree, this will support the life, stability and efficiency of the engine especially since i am planning on a tune this summer.

Pre tune list
- better oil (group 4 or 5)
- better plugs,HKS 40/45s depending on the tune
- better fluids - treat the ATF with CERMA AT treatment, flush and fill with CERMA ATF OR AMSOIL ATF
- flush and fill engine coolant/antifreeze with AMSOIL heavy duty coolant


X, I will be making purchases via your coupon codes. CERMA Jon S (not John the CEO) mentioned that even with the VT, with treatments and CERMAX oil, we should be able to do extended changes (not to exceed 15k). He said this even when i mentioned fuel dilution, blow by, and carbon deposits. I still would not feel safe exceeding 3-4k even with CERMA.. especially with a tune

Thanks to everyone who provides feedback on this forum, it is a gold mine of information. In particular, a big thanks to X for his contributions of knowledge and custom parts!
 
  • Like
Reactions: -X-

· Registered
Joined
·
55 Posts
A rotary engine is nothing like a T-GDI engine. Group III oils with low flashpoints are not recommended, but at least you're not going over 3K miles per change. Hope you are using high filtration catch cans.
I'm well aware of the differences between Rotary and GDI engines - and I continue to go by my personal observations as to usage
 

· Registered
Joined
·
235 Posts
I just switched to Cerma Evo oil. On first change to this oil so no results yet. I'll check the catch can and post again after some mileage. Something to note on the spark plugs is that the 2016 models come with a heat range 8 spark plug. The NGK 1422's are also a heat range 8 so switching to those is a waste of money and also detrimental because the reach is much shorter than the stock plugs and the resistance is 10 ohms vs 5 ohms in the stock plug. I found this out the hard way when after installing the NGK 1422's after about 500 miles I got a CEL for a misfire and removed the plugs and found that they were fouling . I went back to the stock plugs and all was well. NGK doesn't currently have a colder plug for the 2016 model.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
1,155 Posts
I just switched to Cerma Evo oil. On first change to this oil so no results yet. I'll check the catch can and post again after some mileage. Something to note on the spark plugs is that the 2016 models come with a heat range 8 spark plug. The NGK 1422's are also a heat range 8 so switching to those is a waste of money and also detrimental because the reach is much shorter than the stock plugs and the resistance is 10 ohms vs 5 ohms in the stock plug. I found this out the hard way when after installing the NGK 1422's after about 500 miles I got a CEL for a misfire and removed the plugs and found that they were fouling . I went back to the stock plugs and all was well. NGK doesn't currently have a colder plug for the 2016 model.
Would this still be the case on a tuned engine since they recommend the 1422's?
 

· Registered
Joined
·
895 Posts
The problem is that nobody has done oil testing on CERMA (besides Gaijiin who is not here anymore) oils to confirm whether they suffers from fuel dilution or not over normal intervals and extended intervals.

CERMA oils are great, but IMO there is no way it can prevent blow-by and fuel dilution since it is due to the factory top ring design, which is gapped. It is a physical limitation that oil cannot overcome.

This is why I chose gapless top rings for my rebuild, in order to reduce blow-by and fuel dilution to a minimum, so I'll be able to run longer OCIs. I'll be testing oil at each change, using a lab that is not BlackStone. Will be focusing on Ca content, fuel dilution, flashpoint temperature, TAN/TBNs.
Makes sense! Thanks for this info. Perhaps I will do some testing during my changes if anyone has not done PP yet. (I'll have to dig around and do more research).
 

· Registered
Joined
·
1,155 Posts
I just switched to Cerma Evo oil. On first change to this oil so no results yet. I'll check the catch can and post again after some mileage. Something to note on the spark plugs is that the 2016 models come with a heat range 8 spark plug. The NGK 1422's are also a heat range 8 so switching to those is a waste of money and also detrimental because the reach is much shorter than the stock plugs and the resistance is 10 ohms vs 5 ohms in the stock plug. I found this out the hard way when after installing the NGK 1422's after about 500 miles I got a CEL for a misfire and removed the plugs and found that they were fouling . I went back to the stock plugs and all was well. NGK doesn't currently have a colder plug for the 2016 model.
Bump... Is this for 2016's only? What about a tuned VT and 2015 or below?
 

· Registered
Joined
·
615 Posts
I run the HKS m45xl and have zero issues. I am tuned also. Have heard of the 1422s popping but a lot of it has to do with tune and fuel as well...

Regardless the HKS plugs have a center electrode and insulator that are much better protected by the metal shell of the plug body whereas the ngk plug really hangs it all out there and doesn't protect that fragile porcelin insulator.

Ok I digress... Going back to topic
 
  • Like
Reactions: Velostaaman and -X-

· Registered
Joined
·
1,155 Posts
I run the HKS m45xl and have zero issues. I am tuned also. Have heard of the 1422s popping but a lot of it has to do with tune and fuel as well...

Regardless the HKS plugs have a center electrode and insulator that are much better protected by the metal shell of the plug body whereas the ngk plug really hangs it all out there and doesn't protect that fragile porcelin insulator.

Ok I digress... Going back to topic
So much conflicting information out there... I guess I'll have to see how my 1422's workout with my tune and cross that bridge if I come to it.
 
101 - 120 of 240 Posts
Top