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Car is doing really well on the Evo/Redline mix. Just seems really happy in general.

Less blow-by but it smells stronger. Not sure what that could signify...
 

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Discussion Starter · #142 ·
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I notice a CERMA ad at the bottom on here, and have looked into that oil and it sounds like even a better oil than the Amsoil. Actually to an ametuer like me, it sounded like the best oil out there!

So with that said, would you PLEASE let me know if I should go with CERMA for this VT?----(you probably already said what you use but i can't remember at the time, so what kind and wieght do you use?)-------Matter of fact, would you recommend it for any/all my vehicles, including my daughters 2010 VW Beetle, that they swear has to have a specific 502 oil? ------oF COURSE CERMA SAID IT WOULD MEET VW'S STANDARDS, BUT IT'S JUST HARD TO TRUST ANY COMPANY THESE DAYS! FOR INSTANCE CALL MOBIL ONE AND THEY WILL TELL YOU THEIR OIL IS THE BEST THING THAT EVER HAPPENED, AND WE KNOW THAT'S BS!

I will greatly appreciate it if you can help me figure this oil business out once and for all, because i am sick of being undecided about what is the best OIL?
 

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I run the PUP and love it, plus my local pep boys carried it so it's extremely convenient to get and not a hassle, I've no personal experience with cerma but have heard stories that don't exactly make me want to switch over, my next change though I'd like to try it and then a asmoil interval after that, so long as the oil is "approved" to help prevent lspi or the such it's really personal preference and what fits your driving styles.
 

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Hi PumpkinKing - Noticed you were looking into motor oil brands for your Hyundai Veloster. Did you decide on a specific brand yet? We wanted to offer you the opportunity to participate in the Pennzoil Used Oil Analysis program. Through the program, you'll receive a kit with a sample of Pennzoil Synthetics and UOA testing supplies. We're working with independent lab, Blackstone, to provide participants with lab results as well. If you're interested, please send us a private message, so we can fill you in on additional details. - The Pennzoil Team
huh?
 

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Nigerian Prince confirmed
 
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Since were just bs'ing about earl, i always use the Pennzoil Platinum goodness w a Wix XP Filter. Now ive got this Moly Tec, i think - they make all the good additives but its was for my VW TDI days so therefore, diesel. What do you guys think of pushing this 5w-40 through a GDI - just curious?
 

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Since were just bs'ing about earl, i always use the Pennzoil Platinum goodness w a Wix XP Filter. Now ive got this Moly Tec, i think - they make all the good additives but its was for my VW TDI days so therefore, diesel. What do you guys think of pushing this 5w-40 through a GDI - just curious?
5w40 is the best for a large range of ambient temperatures. Here since the temperature is high we have to use 5w30 or higher, since 5w20 cannot protect the engine at our temp.
 

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So no go on the 5W-40? At4k mi I Liqui Moly 2037 pro-line flushed (10min run then drain) then added the 250ml
Liqui Moly 2009 Anti-Friction Oil Treatment topped off w 5W-30 PUP. Plugs are HKS blah 45XL Whatever everyones talking about. Should i just give away the 5W-40? Im in bham Al if that matters as far as temp.
 

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^^^ What he said... I use Rotella T-6 5w-40, good synthetic, good price.
 

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Thanks for all the great information guys! I just bought a used 2013 VT (still under warranty!) and I love it! After searching here quickly I had some PUP 5W-30 put in it then went on to read about this whole -40 fiasco. I'm sure it will be fine for these winter months but I guess I should be looking to switch over to 5W-40 come spring. Anyone notice a difference with the -40 over the -30? I'm up in Southern Ontario, Canada so I'm equally concerned with cold starts. Should I just throw in some -40 for spring/summer and switch to -30 for the colder months or will I be good with -40 year round?
 

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40 vs. 30 has nothing to do with startup viscosity; that number is the viscosity at operating temperature.

5W is the cold startup viscosity. You should use a 0W or if you don't want to risk voiding the warranty, use a 5W PAO oil that has a very low pour point value.
 

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Lspi..bahhh.. We never had LSPI issues on this car.. We had shit internals from Hyundai. If im not mistaken Lspi was a marketing pitch for a leading brand of oil...
Tell that to the people who ejected pistons and rods out of their block. That doesn't happen from simple spark knock nor basic pre-ignition directly, but either can trigger LSPI events. Catastrophic failure (block windowing) happens due to super/mega knocking which is caused by LSPI events. Do some research. Several auto manufacturers, oil/fuel companies, universities and research organizations have published many, many LSPI articles on SAE. It doesn't matter how strong your pistons and rods are. If it happens, the weakest components will break first.

The main reason why incidents dropped in '14-'16s is because Hyundai changed their tune to reduce boost pressure and offset it with timing. This is why everyone with newer VTs complained about lower boost PSI. Higher PSI and boost spikes cause high enough BMEP values to induce LSPI events. Couple that with calcium content, fuel content, non-synthetic oil, high intake temperature, low coolant temperature (from not being at operating temperature) and carbon deposits in combustion chambers and you have a nice LSPI breeding ground.

I'd also like to think that incidents reduced in part (at least the ones reported here) because smart people read my anti-LSPI tips and followed the protocol as much as feasible for them.
 

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40 vs. 30 has nothing to do with startup viscosity; that number is the viscosity at operating temperature.

5W is the cold startup viscosity. You should use a 0W or if you don't want to risk voiding the warranty, use a 5W PAO oil that has a very low pour point value.
Right, thanks it's been a while since I've had a car nice enough to warrant remembering that! I was more curious how much the climate would affect the heat sheering of the oil down to a thinner viscosity as I think that was the reason for the TSB switch to 5w-40. I assume there's going to be some sheering even in a moderate/cool climate, so the interval of changes is in the end probably more important than 30 vs. 40 (I'm pretty sure I read that on this or some other thread about oil already, but it is common sense). Still I guess it would be better to err on the side of caution with the 40, not like it's really going to lubricate any/that much worse right? And yes any tips to avoid LSPI are always appreciated, I just joined the forums and in the last week have read many of your previous comments on this subject and a few others. Thanks again for the info and welcome back!
 
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