Welcome back X. I read the same article you did the last 3 years.. Im well aware of what they are saying. However im not going sweep what issues Hyundai had with this car Under the LSPI rug. Nor am I going to start talking about which oils will reduce LSPI like the OIl articles do. Ive seen motors blow with all brands including Cerma which was suppose to prevent LSPI according to a few here.
Motor oil recommendations?
Has anyone other than me used the Lucas Sythetic Oil Stabilizer in their vehicles?
I used it in my 97 F-150 for 10 yrs., and sold it with 260k miles on it and never used a drop of oil, and never even had to go inside the inside to fix anything. so I know Lucas is good!
I am just curious if say a high grade Valvoline Syn-MAx oil w/ Lucas is just as good or better than the top of the line oils like Amsoil or Royal Purple?
I used it in my 97 F-150 for 10 yrs., and sold it with 260k miles on it and never used a drop of oil, and never even had to go inside the inside to fix anything. so I know Lucas is good!
I am just curious if say a high grade Valvoline Syn-MAx oil w/ Lucas is just as good or better than the top of the line oils like Amsoil or Royal Purple?
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Which specific article are you referring to? I've read more than just one.
We've only known about LSPI for just over two years ago, not three.
No oil can single-handedly "prevent" LSPI but certain chemistry can help to reduce the likelihood.
I for one never claimed CERMA can wholly prevent LSPI, since there are many factors involved, most of which I described in my last post.
We've only known about LSPI for just over two years ago, not three.
No oil can single-handedly "prevent" LSPI but certain chemistry can help to reduce the likelihood.
I for one never claimed CERMA can wholly prevent LSPI, since there are many factors involved, most of which I described in my last post.
Oil Catch Can is probably going to be the best thing to run to stop the engine induction system from having to swallow any greasy watery muck the from that comes from the crankcase ventilation system that way you are not adding to the LSPI with crank case contamination in the combustion chamber.Which specific article are you referring to? I've read more than just one.
We've only known about LSPI for just over two years ago, not three.
No oil can single-handedly "prevent" LSPI but certain chemistry can help to reduce the likelihood.
I for one never claimed CERMA can wholly prevent LSPI, since there are many factors involved, most of which I described in my last post.
Zapp
Right I've got to look into getting/making one, that would certainly add some piece of mind as well. Are there any designs that work better than others? I see people also put them in series, I'm assuming to add to effectiveness. I'm guessing that you could improve the effectiveness of a single unit to perform the same as having two conventional ones in series to save some space. Essentially you're allowing the gasses to cool and giving them something to form droplets/condense on. Anyone ever think of finding a way of cooling the air more so that condensation would happen easier? Air conditioned OCC? :crazy:
Something else for everyone to look at.
I have run only Mobil 1 in my cars for years and no engine issues at all. But this test is interesting. goin to run Royal Purple in the Turbo and see how it does. since it will be my daily driver in will be seeing way more miles then any of my other cars.
http://www.animegame.com/cars/Oil Tests.pdf
I have run only Mobil 1 in my cars for years and no engine issues at all. But this test is interesting. goin to run Royal Purple in the Turbo and see how it does. since it will be my daily driver in will be seeing way more miles then any of my other cars.
http://www.animegame.com/cars/Oil Tests.pdf
We've been touting the importance of catch cans here well before LSPI became known to us.Oil Catch Can is probably going to be the best thing to run to stop the engine induction system from having to swallow any greasy watery muck the from that comes from the crankcase ventilation system that way you are not adding to the LSPI with crank case contamination in the combustion chamber.
Zapp
I'm putting a single can VT-specific kit together but can't provide specifics here. Do a search for #velosterturbo on Instagram and look for a recent pic of dirty valves.Right I've got to look into getting/making one, that would certainly add some piece of mind as well. Are there any designs that work better than others? I see people also put them in series, I'm assuming to add to effectiveness. I'm guessing that you could improve the effectiveness of a single unit to perform the same as having two conventional ones in series to save some space. Essentially you're allowing the gasses to cool and giving them something to form droplets/condense on. Anyone ever think of finding a way of cooling the air more so that condensation would happen easier? Air conditioned OCC? :crazy:
This test is nearly 10 years old. Oil chemistry has come a long way since then and Royal Purple isn't what it used to be, since they were forced to change their formula. Stick with a PAO (or ester) oil; alternatively, Pennzoil Ultra Platinum or Pennzoil Platinum would be the only group III oils to consider, since they are created from natural gas.Something else for everyone to look at.
I have run only Mobil 1 in my cars for years and no engine issues at all. But this test is interesting. goin to run Royal Purple in the Turbo and see how it does. since it will be my daily driver in will be seeing way more miles then any of my other cars.
http://www.animegame.com/cars/Oil Tests.pdf
I cant recall which specific article, ive read many and watched a few videos that came about, and read many many threads on Bobtheoilguy, also worked some stuff with Motul.. LSPI has been talked about for a few years but your right about 2 years ago i guess is when this forum started to talk about it.. When Cerma John came about is when the topic really took off here.. I didnt say you stated Cerma would single handedly prevent LSPI, but there were a few here who did..Which specific article are you referring to? I've read more than just one.
We've only known about LSPI for just over two years ago, not three.
No oil can single-handedly "prevent" LSPI but certain chemistry can help to reduce the likelihood.
I for one never claimed CERMA can wholly prevent LSPI, since there are many factors involved, most of which I described in my last post.
I found it, eww . . . that is nasty.I'm putting a single can VT-specific kit together but can't provide specifics here. Do a search for #velosterturbo on Instagram and look for a recent pic of dirty valves.
NO HaHa from me! I'm truly askin', "WHAT is this?" TKSWhats that? haha...
3TBS... 3 port throttle body spacer. allows 3 ports for the evap line, boost and meth injection...
I've been testing Quaker State ultimate durability and so far it seems smoother than Pennzoil Platinum.... It does have 5x the moly in it and also rat 540 says 120,000 psi film strength.... Worth a look guys...
Plus Hyundai says they partnered with Shell oil (who owns Quaker state now) so I think the product quality of the QSUD has gone way up this year...
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Plus Hyundai says they partnered with Shell oil (who owns Quaker state now) so I think the product quality of the QSUD has gone way up this year...
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Some dealers use a shell motor oil made specifically for hyundai called shell helix. Too lazy to look it up but I know that I was unable to obtain any. May be worth looking at it to see if any specs are obtainable.
Shell Helix is factory fill in most Ferrari's, go figure most owners switch that out for an M1 variant 10w-40, 0w-40, 15w-50. Local Ferrari shop who run Ferrari Challenge their race team all run M1 15w-50 on the track and in their F-40 street car, M1 10w-40 in their other street cars.
I looked up the Shell Helix products a few weeks ago and they are all made using PurePlus tech, same as PUP & PP. They're definitely not made exclusively for Hyundai.
You can buy it off of Amazon or eBay but since it ships from the UK, it turns out to be much more expensive.
You can buy it off of Amazon or eBay but since it ships from the UK, it turns out to be much more expensive.
They have a hyundai specific blend of shell helix.....I looked up the Shell Helix products a few weeks ago and they are all made using PurePlus tech, same as PUP & PP. They're definitely not made exclusively for Hyundai.
You can buy it off of Amazon or eBay but since it ships from the UK, it turns out to be much more expensive.
Is it the "diet coke" of Shell Helix?They have a hyundai specific blend of shell helix.....
So, did you guys see the results WhiteBoy got from running Motul 8100 X-cess 5W-40?
- 70K hard miles
- 75.K Change intervals
- No wear and all parts in spec.
They do have an oil that is Hyundai-recommended according to this chart:They have a hyundai specific blend of shell helix.....
http://shell.jungent.com/marketing/specifications.pdf
https://prodepc.blob.core.windows.n...ix_Ultra_Professional_AH-L_5W-30_(en)_TDS.pdf
Go to the Shell Helix site, enter UK location and select the Kia Procee'd GT (Closest thing to a VT; G4FJ) and it recommends SH Ultra Pro AF 5W-30 (not AH-L).
http://www.shell.com/motorist/oils-.../shell-helix-ultra-professional-af-5w-30.html
No mention of Hyundai there.
Now look up SH Ultra Pro AH-L and there you'll see the blah-blah about Hyundai but their own site doesn't recommend it for the same engine as the VT. Nowhere does it say it's made exclusively or specifically for Hyundai engines.
Until they start supporting US vehicles and offer it here, there's no need to pay through the nose for it when PUP/PP is just fine for the masses.
Look up any year USDM VT there and it doesn't bring up any SH variant but FormulaShell Synthetic SAE 5W-30. Last time I checked (a month ago) it pointed to PUP/PP...
So you put in QSUD 0W-20, 5W-20 or 5W-30?I've been testing Quaker State ultimate durability and so far it seems smoother than Pennzoil Platinum.... It does have 5x the moly in it and also rat 540 says 120,000 psi film strength.... Worth a look guys...
Plus Hyundai says they partnered with Shell oil (who owns Quaker state now) so I think the product quality of the QSUD has gone way up this year...
Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk
Shell has owned both Pennzoil and Quaker State for about 15 years now...
QSUD 5w-30, I liked rat 540s 120k psi rating on it and it uses a different type of moly molecule at 5x more than PP or PUP.
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Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk
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