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Ah ok. Decent FMIC.
 

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I was looking at the cylinder head photos. Your engine builder may have different opinion but I would at least discuss with him removing the sharp edges near the spark plug holes. Sharp edges anywhere in the combustion chamber tend to get very hot and act like glow plugs.
 

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I was looking at the cylinder head photos. Your engine builder may have different opinion but I would at least discuss with him removing the sharp edges near the spark plug holes. Sharp edges anywhere in the combustion chamber tend to get very hot and act like glow plugs.
This is true. Sharper the edge/corner in the combustion chamber the hotter it will be and can be the source of a hot spot that may cause knock.
 

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Sharp edges around the spark plug holes no pics needed for that. You can see the jagged edges around the plug hole in the picture you posted.
 

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Those plug holes do seem a bit irregular in shape. By design not because of a flaw. Not sure what could be done about that though. Almost seems like adding material would be better than removing it and I probably wouldn't go that route.
I wonder why they were designed that way.
 

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They just need to be chamfered is all then run a plug back into the head before install.
 

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Discussion Starter #49
It's no longer a sharp edge when the spark plug is sitting in place, it's up against the spark plug thread.
 

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It's no longer a sharp edge when the spark plug is sitting in place, it's up against the spark plug thread.
This makes sense.
I'd looked at the picture yesterday and noticed the way/ design of the head is that there's not much that can be done to the hole to keep those intrusions out. It's the design of the head and once the spark plug is in that hole there's no issue.
If the head is still off of the block I'd install all of the plugs and make sure there's no protrusions that can't be remedied while the head is off.
Good call @Meaker . (y)
 

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I think some of you are missing the point. I am going to guess that well meaning as you are, you are not experienced engine builders. I am not suggesting any change of configuration, but if you look at the photos there appears to be some small sharp protrusions. I suspect this was caused by the boring/tapping operation. Those small pieces of protruding metal are likely to reach extreme temps. Think of sticking a knife in a fire, the point glows first. Your engine, your money, but after all the effort and dollars spent there is no way I would assemble that engine without addressing the issue. Certainly I do not expect you to take my word for it, do the research. Those of us here with direct experience have no monetary stake in our advice, only trying to help fellow enthusiast and head off the disappointment of an expensive rebuild that fails. Understand that as hp goes up the window of tolerance for anything less than perfect diminishes. A stock engine which may tolerate a flaw of mass production might very well fail with the same flaw at elevated cylinder pressure and rpm.
 

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Nice work, I do have a question for you. Is your ECS switch by your steering wheel or on the passenger side, also how do you like the head unit?
 

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Discussion Starter #53
I've pass your concerns to the engine builder @Mazda3 and see what he thinks.

@Nihil1 I love the head unit, it almost integrates perfectly except for showing the temperature value for the AC. Now it's using the inbuilt antenna for GPS it's really accurate too.

The ECS button is the mirror image too so on the right of the steering wheel.
 

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The sharp edges around the plugs are in the combustion chamber.
Maybe he does not want oil to be on those sharp edges when the engine let's go due to the sharp edges.....JK lol!
 

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So the ESC button is on the passenger side, now if I could get the part numbers for both the passenger airbag and ESC button I could mod my interior. Also glad to here about the radio since I been wanting to replace the head unit.
 

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Going faster than the 13 VT big power build I'm doing right now
 
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