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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I’m having some oil consumption issues after I (my mechanic) installed a new “stuffed” turbo. I’m also getting blue/white smoke out the exhaust. Not a ton but definitely visible. Using Motul Xcess 5w40 per KDM tuners suggestion with the new turbo. Currently going through about a quart every 150-200 miles. Had the car for a year before the new turbo and never had oil or smoke issues. It’s a 2016 Turbo (obviously).

When the turbo was installed, the head was removed and sent to a machine shop for cleaning. They checked valve clearances and installed new valve seals. They said everything looked pretty good. They also installed new ARP head studs at the same time. All new gaskets installed as well.

I’ve had a compression and leak down test done a few days ago to rule out anything like piston rings or sticky valves. Both tests came back with acceptable results.

My mechanic is telling me it must be something with the turbo causing the consumption and the oil burning. He also suggests maybe something wrong with CCV/PCV system could be causing issues too.

I run a dual catch can setup and after doing some research I’m going to add some better ventilation to the CCV side and see what that does for me. I’m going to vent the catch can side instead of returning to intake and I’m going to install a vent for the oil filler cap as well.

If the CCV venting isn’t the issue I’m a little lost. I’ve read a few things about maybe the oil return line off the turbo isn’t working 100% efficiently and that can cause a little bit of a backup and push oil past the turbo piston rings. The shop that installed it clocked the new turbo properly when they installed it so I really don’t think that’s the issue.

Beyond that I guess I could have just been unlucky and the “stuffed” turbo has defects from day one.

Any other things I should check or am missing?
 

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2016 Veloster Turbo DCT Ultimate
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I've had mine replaced twice for issues.

I would quadruple check for boost leaks. Boost leaks are silent killers for turbos. Depending on your tune, the turbo maybe allowed to spin faster than it should.
With a boost leak, the turbo would spin faster and faster until it can reach it's target. It'll wear out the bearings and shaft really quickly.

On the other side, make sure the tune isn't asking the turbo to do more than it can. Same result as the boost leak. Turbo is spinning too fast trying to reach a target it can't. Premature wear, shortened lifespan.

You could have a kink in your turbo oil lines. The top one is a thin bendy metal tube that's easy to kink. The bottom one is much bigger and harder to kink but it could something to look at.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I've had mine replaced twice for issues.

I would quadruple check for boost leaks. Boost leaks are silent killers for turbos. Depending on your tune, the turbo maybe allowed to spin faster than it should.
With a boost leak, the turbo would spin faster and faster until it can reach it's target. It'll wear out the bearings and shaft really quickly.

On the other side, make sure the tune isn't asking the turbo to do more than it can. Same result as the boost leak. Turbo is spinning too fast trying to reach a target it can't. Premature wear, shortened lifespan.

You could have a kink in your turbo oil lines. The top one is a thin bendy metal tube that's easy to kink. The bottom one is much bigger and harder to kink but it could something to look at.
I did have my shop do a boost leak test too. They said the BOV was leaking at 10 PSI. I replaced that and triple checked all couplets and I'm confident now there are no boost leaks. We've been going very conservative on the tunes but I will run what you said by my tuner to see what he thinks.

I had the new turbo installed at the end of May and maybe have but 600 miles on it since then. It doesn't get driven a lot.
 

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I'd run dual Drescher hoses off the valve cover. This will eliminate chance of any oil going back through the engine or the turbo inlet.

Remove intake before the turbo and clean thoroughly.

Remove DP and clean thoroughly.

Be sure no boost leaks and take it past the boost you'll be running.

Then run the car until you see some oil loss. Then remove the DP to see if oil is in there. If so it is the turbo seals. This can be from inadequate intake, inadequate oil drain, over adequate oil feed, or bad seals. If none there then it will be piston ring or head related.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
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This is the only external oil I've noticed doing visual inspections over the last couple weeks. I've been inspecting a couple times a week. That's where the intake side meets the turbo. intake pipe is clean. No oil.
 

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You may have external and internal oil leak then based on what you're saying.

I know a common mistake when swapping turbos is reusing the oil feed/drain lines gaskets. Also not tq to spec. Many may leak in general or under pressure as the oil psi gets higher with rpm so may not have a leak at idle when oil psi is much lower.

Oil leak internally may not be as bad as the external if losing oil at that rate and there is not much smoke. But not sure what amount of smoke you're talking either.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
You may have external and internal oil leak then based on what you're saying.

I know a common mistake when swapping turbos is reusing the oil feed/drain lines gaskets. Also not tq to spec. Many may leak in general or under pressure as the oil psi gets higher with rpm so may not have a leak at idle when oil psi is much lower.

Oil leak internally may not be as bad as the external if losing oil at that rate and there is not much smoke. But not sure what amount of smoke you're talking either.
Other than that small spec of oil I found in the previous picture one time like two weeks ago, visually I don't see a sign of external leaking on the return line or anywhere else. Nothing on the ground in parking spot and undercarriage seems dry and clean. I noticed a small little dent on the return line that shouldn't cause issues but you never know. I was considering buying new feed and return lines just to be safe. Gaskets as well. What is the tq spec on those? New lines would be like $50-60 so not too bad to at least eliminate that as an issue.

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I'm going to throw a go pro on the bumper so I can get a better idea of level of smoke. To me it's only barely noticeable occasionally when stop and go or letting off throttle and then getting back on it. I don't feel like its constantly smoking but my mechanic's notes from Friday were " Technician noted on test drive that vehicle has blue smoke coming out tail pipe. Suspects oil burning. Blue smoke does not plume, always present. Even at take off from start at low rpm".

I do get a bit of a wet splatter out the exhaust on the pavement when starting from cold. here is link to a video of start up. this was a couple days ago.

 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
got a better mount for my camera and did a little 8 minute drive around town to try to demonstrate the smoking I'm getting from the exhaust. Let me know what ya'll think. It's really not bad and I think the best examples are maybe at 4:00 and 5:44. It's really hard to notice IMO.

 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
yeah, conversation seems to have dried up. My next steps are getting a replacement turbo from KDM and also getting new oil feed and return lines just to be safe. Supply chain sucks for that though so no clue when I'll actually have the parts to install. KDM is going to have check the old/bad turbo too and see what the issue might have been. Just hoping to get this resolved sooner than later. I'll keep you all posted.

Oh, I also did one of those oil lab tests just for the hell of it. It was like $40. Zengine. Came back to day as a perfect 10 so that, plus acceptable compression and leakdown makes it seem like all things are pointing to turbo as the issue.

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Nice! I’ve been using blackstone. Cost is about the same.
 

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Furthermore, some oil in the turbine side of the turbo is normal (according to PureTurbos). Check the side-to-side and back n forth play of the turbo shaft; very little play is acceptable.
Double check your BOV for leaks, and that it’s seated properly, check vacuum lines for kinks (and cuts) and log and monitor your vacuum/boost pressure PIDs and verify you’re not over shooting your tune’s boost target.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Thanks for the heads up on PureTurbos. KDMTuners seems to be very busy. I can only get a response like once a week via email with them. It's frustrating.

I've checked for boost leaks multiple times and replaced a BOV that my shop said was leaking at like 10 PSI. I see boost peak at 21 PSI on my boost gauge that's coming off my throttle body spacer so I don't think we're over boosting based on the tune she has now.
 

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T
Thanks for the heads up on PureTurbos. KDMTuners seems to be very busy. I can only get a response like once a week via email with them. It's frustrating.

I've checked for boost leaks multiple times and replaced a BOV that my shop said was leaking at like 10 PSI. I see boost peak at 21 PSI on my boost gauge that's coming off my throttle body spacer so I don't think we're over boosting based on the tune she has now.
Turn the car on without starting it to test BOV. Let me know if that helps.
 

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How does that test the BOV?
My GFB blows off early if the car is not on and when I turn the car on it doesn't blow off early. I can get 30 psi with no early BOV event. When it blew off early, I am like oh crap what's going on here. First thing I thought of was, get the car closest to "running state", so I turned the ignition on and all is well. The 10 psi event has to be just the return spring setting. With solenoid valve closed, by being activated, it stops the pressure push back of the BOV. This is repeatable.

At least this how it works on my 2018 Kona 1.6T AWD as it was the first Hyundai car to get the 2019 and plus style ECU/wastegate electronics setup like the 2019 and beyond Veloster has.
 
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