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Thanks for the heads up on PureTurbos. KDMTuners seems to be very busy. I can only get a response like once a week via email with them. It's frustrating.

I've checked for boost leaks multiple times and replaced a BOV that my shop said was leaking at like 10 PSI. I see boost peak at 21 PSI on my boost gauge that's coming off my throttle body spacer so I don't think we're over boosting based on the tune she has now.
Turn the car on without starting it to test BOV. Let me know if that helps.
 

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How does that test the BOV?
My GFB blows off early if the car is not on and when I turn the car on it doesn't blow off early. I can get 30 psi with no early BOV event. When it blew off early, I am like oh crap what's going on here. First thing I thought of was, get the car closest to "running state", so I turned the ignition on and all is well. The 10 psi event has to be just the return spring setting. With solenoid valve closed, by being activated, it stops the pressure push back of the BOV. This is repeatable.

At least this how it works on my 2018 Kona 1.6T AWD as it was the first Hyundai car to get the 2019 and plus style ECU/wastegate electronics setup like the 2019 and beyond Veloster has.
 

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I assume you mean when doing a boost leak test? So make sure the car is on but not engine running when performing a boost leak test to be sure the BOV is operating properly? Pretty sure the shop didn't have the ignition on which might explain the 10 psi leak they found.

Yes, doing a boost leak test.

I was going to get a stuffed turbo this winter, now I am a bit leery on going with a pure turbo with all the issue they seem to be having. My car is a daily so the last thing I want to do is pull the dam thing 2-3 times.
 

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Yeah. I don’t have a proper garage so I’m having a shop uninstall and install the turbo so each time I have to do this is like $1000 in labor and new gaskets. If this new turbo doesn’t fix it I’m going to get rid of the car. Keep an eye out for lots of parts for sale. Haha.
I have a bunch of questions.

What is Pure Turbo's "excuse" for the problems?

And does SkyShadex have the same issues, from what I have read he has had 2 replacements so far?

Is he getting same excuses from Pure Turbo?

Are they using the wrong seals? Is the the Hyundai turbo body too small for the new ball bearing and seals and large turbines?

What is the repeating issue, just seals or out of spec end play?

Has anyone nailed it down to a key item or part that is failing?

Maybe going with the same style bearing and seal setup as OEM, would that help fix it?

Are the new turbines TOO big, as I see there are stage 1 and stage 2 wheel sizes. I assume you both have the largest?
 

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Yeah, she's coming out tonight and I'll send it back to PureTurbos for diagnostics. Everything started when it was installed and I've had compression and leak down tests done that came back acceptable (I posted those results earlier in the thread as well). No CEL's or anything either.

When the shop installed it they did the ARP head stud upgrade as well and sent the head out to be cleaned and checked. Also came back as "good". At this point I'm hoping it's the turbo and I can have a definite reason/answer for what is happening and get it fixed.
Can you please ask them the max PSI they approve is safe for boost leak testing. Your guys could have gone over and pushed a seal out.
 

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pretty sure they didn't go over 20 psi. They said the BOV was leaking air at 10 PSI but I don't think they turned on the ignition so the solenoid could do it's thing (someone told me you have to do that with the Veloster's to get a proper boost leak test otherwise the BOV will always open around 10 psi, not sure if that's true but it would explain why they though my fairly new sxth BOV was leaking).

Also, I was having all the same issues before the boost leak test so I don't think that had any effect.
That was me😆
 

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The shop that installed it, are they a high performance shop, or just an everyday ordinary repair shop?

Before mounting the turbo. I would use a large syringe to inject some good oil into the center bearings. Then when installed, pull the fuel pump relay and crank over the motor for two 5 seconds starts to prime the turbo. Then when it starts wait 5 seconds before blipping the throttle.

Did you happen to find out what Pure Turbo sets as the max PSI they want you to check boost leaks at?

Good luck this time around,
 

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fram ultra? only oem for us...
I am not much into the Hyundai/Kia OEM filters. Weight of a filter doesn't sway me, filtering media flow with GOOD filtering does. Hyundai use to post their oil filtering specs and they were pretty bad. They don't post it anymore since it was not very good. Fram Ultra/Titanium has one of the the top 2. Or at least it did till Fram changed the media last year, from a full synthetic layer to a synthetic blend multi layer. One engineer type guy says 4 layers that he has counted. Hyundai's are just plain paper. They say it filters even better, but until we see testing, I say a tad less out of they are bias. When I bought my Kona new I drove it home and pulled the OEM filter off and added a Titanium right away where GOOD filtering matters on a brand new motor. A lot of

We had a filter test company's owner do some free testing for us over at Bob's the oil guy. He going to do more testing, but got bad covid and backed out and never kept going sadly.


 

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Hyundai filters are good and also the only filter that is approved by Hyundai for warranty claims. Issue with some filters is actual filtering and some is bypass spring pressure. I would like to see a filter shootout and comparison though for these engines as there are many that will work but how well is the question.
I respectfully disagree with your warranty comment. Not in the USA, I had a Fram Ultra on my wife's 2013 Elantra GT that the piston skirts galled up at 14,000 miles and they said the words because you have an aftermarket filter on you "probably" won't get this fixed. 5 milliseconds after his last uneducated word came out of his mouth. I said "Not in the USA" I said I am protected by the Magnusen-Moss Warranty Act. I have a legal right to use ANY name brand oil filter that the filter manufacture has speced for use on this car, and the number on this car is for a Hyundai. Case closed. You can take me to court, but I will win. And by the way this Fram Ultra flows better then the Hyundai filter and filters dirt and contaminants far better then the OEM filter. It is a better filter by far. ( knowing I can get Fram's internal data that backed it up as per the Rep.), plus at the time Hyundai still had their sub par filtering data on line vs Fram's data. I also said in fact 3-4 years ago, Fram did a full redesign of the oil filters to follow the specs of the Hyundai motor as Hyundai increased oil pressure and Fram had a couple blown cans and Fram increased the can gauge after they documented the issue. As for the by-pass spring issue it is within the design spec of the Hyundai motors. I had many discussion with the R&D/marketing rep when this guy was at Fram. I never heard a word about a warranty denial after that.

The order writer said, we will have to put an OEM filter back on to test the car as the sign of this issue is "The Hyundai Tick of Death" as some of the piston skirt slurry was all clogged up in the oil pathways of the hydraulic lifters. I then told him when I go home, I will be taking off the OEM filter and putting on a new Fram Ultra. They called me 3 hours later to pick up my car on my voice mail and it was 10 minutes to closing time for them and they said "this ticking is normal". Oh, so you actually think this is normal? yes that was what the mechanic has writen here. I had no choice to but to go home with it as I had no other car and my wife was out of town. As I had a 50-60 client hobby Audi repair shop and was a car club engine builder with 10 race/street motors built, I had a clue what was going on. One week later I dropped the car off at Hyundai and said I don't want it back till you fix it. I diagnosed lifters and did not know about Hyundai's engine issue problems yet. 3 hours later they called me and said the motor is toast and I would be getting a short block. 2 days later I talked with the service manager that I would not except a short block as there is no way they will get all the aluminum slurry out of the heads oil passages and he agreed on a long block.

I have been at Hyundai dealers and Honda dealers where this so called "warranty exception" for non OEM parts came up and I would step right in between the customer and the dealers clueless order writer and called BS. I even confronted a service manager on his BSing a customer. Way too much FUD on the warranty scare tactics by the USA dealers where they would NEVER win in court. Hyundai Canada uses it far more as they don't have the laws to keep them in semi check.
 

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Well here is the update and it’s very frustrating:

I put the repaired turbo back on today and immediately it’s doing the exact same thing. I’ve driven for 10 miles and it started smoking just like before within the first 1/2 mile or less.

I replaced the oil feed and return lines with brand new lines. I replaced the oil pan to make sure any contamination was removed. I put fresh oil and filter in before starting and then let it run for about 25 min only at idle. Dumped that oil and changed the oil and filter again. Oil looked very clean no metal on the drain plug.

Smoke seems to occur most when I give it a light/medium load then let off the throttle for a few seconds and then get back on the throttle. That’s when I notice the white smoke. Also if I’m stop and go around town. Stop at a stop light or sign then lightly get back on throttle. Kind of puffs out for a second or two then is not noticeable until i repeat that scenario. No noticeable smoke at idle or cruising.

Not really sure where to go from here. I followed all the priming instructions very carefully. No CELs and all the temp and pressure numbers look good. Drives fine other than the embarrassing smoke issue. Turbo boost is good too.
I feel for you on this one. I was hoping all would be well. "It" happening again, makes me wonder if the shop that first installed the hybrid turbo did not add the oil pressure restrictor for ball bearing turbos. Did you check for this or know if it was installed? It matches your scenario of smoke after unrestricted high oil pressure would hit the turbo seals on a ball bearing turbo a 1/2 mile into full oil pressure.

 

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This is what they list as "upgrades". It doesn't mention ball bearing vs journal, just "360 degree bearing kit" but I'm pretty sure it's still journal bearings. I feel like they would have mentioned that and the possible need for a restrictor at some point in this whole process but I will definitely ask them. I have another email into them about the most recent developments so we'll see what they say but I'm sure I won't hear anything until Tuesday because of the holiday.

I think my next steps will be to swap in a brand new stock turbo and see if the issue happens again and then I think I can safely rule out the turbo and probably have to look at replacing/rebuilding the whole engine. I picked up this one about a month ago just in case so it's sitting in my storage right now. Just need to get some more crush washers and I can swap it in and see what happens.

New Factory Turbo Charger

Stage 2 Includes:

  • 49mm 9 blade Compressor wheel
  • 45.5 mm 9 blade lightweight turbine
  • 360 degree bearing kit
  • Larger surface thrust collars
  • Precision assembly balanced
  • Custom Bullet nuts
Yep, If it was a ball bearing that would of been their first question if the restrictor or pressure regulator was in.

Where is your original turbo? You posted you need to buy a new stock one??
 

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Now I am going back and forth on a hybrid, since my car is a daily. Two of you here had multi installs and major downtime. I can't do that as I don't have a spare car. There is a company out of Florida that does these hybrids, but I would like to see their customer list on reliability. Ha ha.

Do we know the other guy has a Pure turbo too? If so what a horrible track record.
 
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