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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
My GFB blows off early if the car is not on and when I turn the car on it doesn't blow off early. I can get 30 psi with no early BOV event. When it blew off early, I am like oh crap what's going on here. First thing I thought of was, get the car closest to "running state", so I turned the ignition on and all is well. The 10 psi event has to be just the return spring setting. With solenoid valve closed, by being activated, it stops the pressure push back of the BOV. This is repeatable.

At least this how it works on my 2018 Kona 1.6T AWD as it was the first Hyundai car to get the 2019 and plus style ECU/wastegate electronics setup like the 2019 and beyond Veloster has.
I assume you mean when doing a boost leak test? So make sure the car is on but not engine running when performing a boost leak test to be sure the BOV is operating properly? Pretty sure the shop didn't have the ignition on which might explain the 10 psi leak they found.
 

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I assume you mean when doing a boost leak test? So make sure the car is on but not engine running when performing a boost leak test to be sure the BOV is operating properly? Pretty sure the shop didn't have the ignition on which might explain the 10 psi leak they found.

Yes, doing a boost leak test.

I was going to get a stuffed turbo this winter, now I am a bit leery on going with a pure turbo with all the issue they seem to be having. My car is a daily so the last thing I want to do is pull the dam thing 2-3 times.
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
Yes, doing a boost leak test.

I was going to get a stuffed turbo this winter, now I am a bit leery on going with a pure turbo with all the issue they seem to be having. My car is a daily so the last thing I want to do is pull the dam thing 2-3 times.
Yeah. I don’t have a proper garage so I’m having a shop uninstall and install the turbo so each time I have to do this is like $1000 in labor and new gaskets. If this new turbo doesn’t fix it I’m going to get rid of the car. Keep an eye out for lots of parts for sale. Haha.
 

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Yeah. I don’t have a proper garage so I’m having a shop uninstall and install the turbo so each time I have to do this is like $1000 in labor and new gaskets. If this new turbo doesn’t fix it I’m going to get rid of the car. Keep an eye out for lots of parts for sale. Haha.
I have a bunch of questions.

What is Pure Turbo's "excuse" for the problems?

And does SkyShadex have the same issues, from what I have read he has had 2 replacements so far?

Is he getting same excuses from Pure Turbo?

Are they using the wrong seals? Is the the Hyundai turbo body too small for the new ball bearing and seals and large turbines?

What is the repeating issue, just seals or out of spec end play?

Has anyone nailed it down to a key item or part that is failing?

Maybe going with the same style bearing and seal setup as OEM, would that help fix it?

Are the new turbines TOO big, as I see there are stage 1 and stage 2 wheel sizes. I assume you both have the largest?
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
I have a bunch of questions.

What is Pure Turbo's "excuse" for the problems?

And does SkyShadex have the same issues, from what I have read he has had 2 replacements so far?

Is he getting same excuses from Pure Turbo?

Are they using the wrong seals? Is the the Hyundai turbo body too small for the new ball bearing and seals and large turbines?

What is the repeating issue, just seals or out of spec end play?

Has anyone nailed it down to a key item or part that is failing?

Maybe going with the same style bearing and seal setup as OEM, would that help fix it?

Are the new turbines TOO big, as I see there are stage 1 and stage 2 wheel sizes. I assume you both have the largest?
I also have all the same question. I ordered stage 2 as it was the only option from KDM Tuners at the time.

I'm very curious what Pure has to say once they examine it. Hope to get it taken off and sent down to them next week if all goes well. Then we'll see what they say.

I'd say if anyone is thinking about this wait until we see what's going on with the few folks on this thread that are experiencing issues.
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
ok also, took a better pic of how I have my catch can and breathers setup to try to optimize crankcase ventalation in case that is also an issue with the oil consumption.

Love to hear some feedback on this setup. I know there is a lot of back and forth on what to VTA and what to close loop. This setup was based on the video from KDM Tuners but obviously there is some debate here. Also, please let me know if I have something obviously wrong or backwards. I don't run any check valves currently other than that stock PCV valve.

1 - inlet of can to PCV valve
2 - outlet of can to manifold
3 - inlet of can to CCV Valve (outlet on can is a breather)
4 - Oil fill cap to oil separator with breather (pretty sure I have the direction of oils separator correct??)


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ok also, took a better pic of how I have my catch can and breathers setup to try to optimize crankcase ventalation in case that is also an issue with the oil consumption.

Love to hear some feedback on this setup. I know there is a lot of back and forth on what to VTA and what to close loop. This setup was based on the video from KDM Tuners but obviously there is some debate here. Also, please let me know if I have something obviously wrong or backwards. I don't run any check valves currently other than that stock PCV valve.

1 - inlet of can to PCV valve
2 - outlet of can to manifold
3 - inlet of can to CCV Valve (outlet on can is a breather)
4 - Oil fill cap to oil separator with breather (pretty sure I have the direction of oils separator correct??)


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Looks neat but you’re doing too much. Just vent PCV, breather, and oil cap lines to atmosphere.

The line with the K-motor baffle filter and breather is completely unnecessary lol. Why do you feel the need to filter out the air (gases) that’s being vented to atmosphere?! Are the fumes that strong 😂
 

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I have a bunch of questions.

What is Pure Turbo's "excuse" for the problems?

And does SkyShadex have the same issues, from what I have read he has had 2 replacements so far?

Is he getting same excuses from Pure Turbo?

Are they using the wrong seals? Is the the Hyundai turbo body too small for the new ball bearing and seals and large turbines?

What is the repeating issue, just seals or out of spec end play?

Has anyone nailed it down to a key item or part that is failing?

Maybe going with the same style bearing and seal setup as OEM, would that help fix it?

Are the new turbines TOO big, as I see there are stage 1 and stage 2 wheel sizes. I assume you both have the largest?
The first time I had mine sent in for warranty work was after the turbo seal blew, compressor fins were rolled, and shaft developed excessive play; the turbo over spun due to too much preload on the 20psi WG spring and HKS SSQIV BOV was leaking. The second time was due to CAI filter silicone piece tearing off, getting sucked into the compressor and rolling one of the fins. Sum my issues to user error.

With these turbos being designed the way they are (literally placing a larger K04 CHRA cartridge inside a K03 housing), they are more susceptible to failure if the appropriate configurations aren’t met, i.e, improper WG preload and or WG spring, boost leaks, exhaust manifold leaks, low oil pressure, poor cooling etc.

Oddly enough, my OE turbo is still alive and kicking (sitting on the sidelines) at 74k miles and experienced overs-pinning and boost leaks scenarios; had the same HKS SSQV BOV and FMIC kit setup I had on the stuffed turbo. The only variables I can think of would be the tunes I ran with the respective turbo setups and WG preload and spring setup were much less than on the stuffed.

Other than SkyShadeX, I personally haven’t heard off any non-user error related issues with Pure’s stuffed turbos on these engines.
 

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
Looks neat but you’re doing too much. Just vent PCV, breather, and oil cap lines to atmosphere.

The line with the K-motor baffle filter and breather is completely unnecessary lol. Why do you feel the need to filter out the air (gases) that’s being vented to atmosphere?! Are the fumes that strong 😂
I put the K-Motor filter on there so oil doesn't go everywhere like I've heard can happen. Not sure it's completely unnecessary. Just wanted it to be a clean but efficient setup.
 

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Alright I emailed Jimmy and he said I need to check the compression and do a leak down test then I will for sure know it's the turbo. It has to be the turbo... This started when I just put it on.
 

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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
Alright I emailed Jimmy and he said I need to check the compression and do a leak down test then I will for sure know it's the turbo. It has to be the turbo... This started when I just put it on.
Curious what your compression and leak down numbers look like. If you don't mind sharing once you get those tests done.

mine were:

Compression

1 FB: 50 final 190
2 FB 105 final 190
3 FB110 final 180
4 FB 115 final 180

**oil noted on spark plug threads

Leak down:
1 15%
2 14%
3 17%
4 12%

My engine has 105k miles so my mechanic said pretty much anything under 20% was "acceptable". Obviously I'd love to see those all under 10% but they're not abnormal according to my shop.
 

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Curious what your compression and leak down numbers look like. If you don't mind sharing once you get those tests done.

mine were:

Compression

1 FB: 50 final 190
2 FB 105 final 190
3 FB110 final 180
4 FB 115 final 180

**oil noted on spark plug threads

Leak down:
1 15%
2 14%
3 17%
4 12%

My engine has 105k miles so my mechanic said pretty much anything under 20% was "acceptable". Obviously I'd love to see those all under 10% but they're not abnormal according to my shop.
There was oil on your threads?
 

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Discussion Starter · #34 ·
So my shop is a bit backed up and in the middle of moving locations so they can't get my car in for a few weeks or maybe even a month. How involved is the removal of the turbo so I can at least get it out and shipped back for inspection. I've watched the KDM Tuner video a few times and seems like its a pain but not impossible. Valve cover, fuel pump and associated wiring needs to come off but other than that should be able to pull out from the top. My only option where it is now is jack stands so I can't really remove the sub frame and do it from the bottom. I can use jack stands to get to some of the stubborn bolts like downpipe and intake inlet.

What else would need to be done for just removal. Do I need to drain all the oil and coolant first?
 

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well considering it has been out recently you shouldn't be needing to deal with any busted bolts...
 

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So my shop is a bit backed up and in the middle of moving locations so they can't get my car in for a few weeks or maybe even a month. How involved is the removal of the turbo so I can at least get it out and shipped back for inspection. I've watched the KDM Tuner video a few times and seems like its a pain but not impossible. Valve cover, fuel pump and associated wiring needs to come off but other than that should be able to pull out from the top. My only option where it is now is jack stands so I can't really remove the sub frame and do it from the bottom. I can use jack stands to get to some of the stubborn bolts like downpipe and intake inlet.

What else would need to be done for just removal. Do I need to drain all the oil and coolant first?
Putting in the turbo took some time with me there is always something that takes time when installing something... Taking out the turbo is easier than putting it in in my opinion.
 

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Discussion Starter · #37 ·
Putting in the turbo took some time with me there is always something that takes time when installing something... Taking out the turbo is easier than putting it in in my opinion.
Yeah, my plan was to try to get it out to save some time and $$ and then have it towed over to the shop for install once I get the turbo back from inspection/repair. I might give it a go this weekend. I'm not really driving it anyway so if I can't figure it out I have an appointment with my shop for 8/8 so they can take it out.

What about any prep for removing like draining fluids/oil? Or can I just unbolt and pull it out (easier said than done I'm sure, especially with my big dumb gorilla hands.)
 

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Yeah, my plan was to try to get it out to save some time and $$ and then have it towed over to the shop for install once I get the turbo back from inspection/repair. I might give it a go this weekend. I'm not really driving it anyway so if I can't figure it out I have an appointment with my shop for 8/8 so they can take it out.

What about any prep for removing like draining fluids/oil? Or can I just unbolt and pull it out (easier said than done I'm sure, especially with my big dumb gorilla hands.)
I didn't drain the fluids when I took it off it wasn't to big of a mess.
 
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