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Ok, so I got a new BOV (TurboXS) today and while I have already decided to change the factory valve regardless of its condition, just look. First I didn't even notice until I pushed the rubber valve in and put a bright light on it.
I'm sure this isn't how it supposed to be, right? (click on the image to see the full size)







 

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I took some of your images and cleaned them up in some closeups.







This is exactly what I have been talking about in various recent threads involving goose or howling noises. Sometimes it can be something else, but much more often than not, the diaphragm has failed as seen here.

The stock recirculation valve is straight garbage. If these images don’t make anyone still running the stock recirculation valve to immediately replace it, nothing will. IMO, this is one of the first performance mods that should be done (after doing the foundational mods, of course).

An aftermarket replacement recirculation valve is not going to void your warranty. Any US dealer who tells you that, just mention the Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act of 1975.
 

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Ok, so I got a new BOV (TurboXS) today and while I have already decided to change the factory valve regardless of its condition, just look. First I didn't even notice until I pushed the rubber valve in and put a bright light on it.
Please lemme know what you think of your new BOV. its the Turboxs SML hybrid one you bought right? I ordered mine yesterday, wont be shipped till like 2 weeks lol so i'd love to hear what you think about it :)

my BPV is making the same goosey noise (EEEEEEEEEEEEERRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr) lol and the dealership told me thats normal and there's no leaks showing or anything.

Cant wait to put the new BOV on.
 

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Looks like a small tear. We see this all the time, but not with only 41k miles on the car. Hmm, may be something that we start checking on cars before they hit the dyno. Thanks for sharing!
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Looks like a small tear. We see this all the time, but not with only 41k miles on the car. Hmm, may be something that we start checking on cars before they hit the dyno. Thanks for sharing!
There are 3 tears on it and if you look at the edge where the seal is it looks kinda like it was blow by or leak, not sure maybe just I smudged it with dirty hands. I’m gonna dig it out from my parts box I have already put it away and look at it again.


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i guess if you're hard on cash and dont wanna spend money on a new BOV, could you try maybe applying some shoe goo or some sort of flexible epoxy to the tears?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Xtimx - not sure about the rubber goo, the car is still fine driving with those small tears, it’s just you won’t get the same boost levels so depending how big the tears are , mine are tiny , the car is gonna work just not performing top. That’s crazy that you gotta wait 2 weeks for theb BOV. I bought it on eBay and it arrived like in 3 days.
I can find the eBay merchant who sells them, they are definitely brand new and nicely packaged.


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i guess if you're hard on cash and dont wanna spend money on a new BOV, could you try maybe applying some shoe goo or some sort of flexible epoxy to the tears?
I think I would stay away from that option. Wouldn't want a small part breaking off and running through the turbo, or into the inlet of the throttle body. If you are ATM dump, and put the goo on the ATM side, then it wouldn't be an issue.
 

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Please lemme know what you think of your new BOV. its the Turboxs SML hybrid one you bought right? I ordered mine yesterday, wont be shipped till like 2 weeks lol so i'd love to hear what you think about it :)

my BPV is making the same goosey noise (EEEEEEEEEEEEERRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr) lol and the dealership told me thats normal and there's no leaks showing or anything.

Cant wait to put the new BOV on.
I think we have them in stock, in case anyone is wanting to order one.

damnfastdd.com
 

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Discussion Starter #10
So yeah I just test drove it for a few miles, the car definitely holds the pressure longer. And yeah maybe ask [email protected] to get your BOV if they can ship it faster than 2 weeks, I would no way wait that long.

Also, how do I test the PCV valve? Just take it off and shake it?


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So yeah I just test drove it for a few miles, the car definitely holds the pressure longer. And yeah maybe ask [email protected] to get your BOV if they can ship it faster than 2 weeks, I would no way wait that long.

Also, how do I test the PCV valve? Just take it off and shake it?


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You can just shake it, or throw a vacuum on the valve with a vacuum tester to see if its holding pressure/vacuum.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
You can just shake it, or throw a vacuum on the valve with a vacuum tester to see if its holding pressure/vacuum.
I don't have a gauge (yet).
It feels loose, almost kinda too loose when I'm shaking it.
I'm guessing it's good, but looks like it was never changed so for $7.00 and 3 min work, I'm just gonna replace it tomorrow. Rather waste $7 than blow my oil seals or worse.
 

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@tork

What PCV do you recommend on a car with a bad one? What vac/pressure do you test them at and what would be considered good?

Reason I ask is because I bought a few different brands, and multiple of each to test, and all of them leaked, some just worse than others. Oem was the best I found but really no better than the bad one that was cleaned up good.
 

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Discussion Starter #16 (Edited)
Ok, so extended drive with the car, here are my results:

1. Following were changed:

1. NGK (OEM HR6) to Denso ZXU20HCR8 (gapped .028)

2. Nasty Oil (brand unknown) to Penzoil ultra plantinum

3. Ripped OEM BPV to Turboxs XML

4. OEM PCV valve to whatever brand from Autozone

............................
Problem...The car feels stronger, but also jerkier behavior.
It's hard to describe what I mean jerkier, but the gas pedal is a bit jumpier. For example, in stop/go traffic I had a much more difficult time to keep at a constant slow speed. Not hard, just unusual.
There are no problems at higher speeds, the car pulls ok.
Once, moving it goes, but It's harder to drive slowly, the car either wants to take off or stop. I'm thinking about vacuum leak, but there is no strange sound or hissing or anything, no CELS nothing.
I also want to blame the Turbo SX BOV or the spark plugs or some strange combination. Or, just I'm not used to it, I was driving it for 2 months with a faulty BPV.
Anyone? Maybe reset the ECU? Leave it alone?
 

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I'd use a good plug of heat range 8 or 9, not the ones you have now.

Be sure the solenoid is hooked up properly and correct spring used in the BOV.

Use an oem PCV.

Always reset the ecu after mods.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Thanks!
I did an ECU reset (pulled negative cable, but then I also pulled the ECU harness) and the car feels a lot better.
Colder plugs have to wait, they are quite pricey, but i'll consider it sometime later.
 
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