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Discussion Starter #1
Hello everyone
I would like to start a general discussion about the quirks and challenges of the 1.6 engine and its maintenance requirements but I have also some questions regarding the health of my car. I should mention that a good portion of my information can be found in the engine developmental analysis pinned to the forum.

Firstly i drive a since new 2016 VT, 47xxx kms, it has a K&N cold air intake, custom 3" high flow, mild steel exhuast, and a quality tune done by a performance specialist in sydney, NSW. It sounds great, has lots of low end torque and the dyno shows a really nice, consistent boost level. Nothing crazy but its got some personality. It gets fresh 5w30 every 3000~km and drinks BP98 exclusively.

So the veloster has oil/fuel dilution problem. Usually nothing serious with regular oil changes but the incomplete combustion/cylinder sleeve wash creates carbon buildup which is more of a nuisance in the long run. How do you circumvent this in your veloster if at all? Does anyone have one of these engines at +200,000 ks yet?

Especially since modifying mine i notice a strong smell of fuel in my oil and i know a decent amount's getting in. I have decided im going to install a catch can to help combat this. I know this is a popular topic so apologies if this is old news. I was thinking a good local brand Aeroflow but i have some queries.

1. Type of catch can. Theres lots and im not sure what fits this engine dynamic the most;
Breather can with air filter?
Or closed system can with check valves to evacuate crankcase pressure?
2. Mounting position. Im not sure where to put it. I know i should probably have it below the pcv breather as to not fight gravity, so below the intake? or on the firewall somewhere?

The next thing i wanted to talk about was carbon cleaning. Ive seen what those intakes look like opened up and it was akin to the lid of my bbq.
Ive heard of people using regular injector cleaners like seafoam or fuel additives
Ive also heard people say its better to wait until it becomes noticable and crack out the walnut blaster/replace the part
Which do you think is better?
If theres anything else about this engine you think is worth mentioning here please do.

Thanks for taking the time to read.
 

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2015 auto VT, 2013 manual VT × 2
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Welcome to the forum.

Let's see that dyno!

How the car is tuned will play a role on things but you'll have the dilution regardless.

3k mile max for OCI with OEM filter only and proper oil is key. Many have gone over 100k miles and some over 200k miles. Most I've seen on one in person was 170k+ miles.

VTA breather and PCV sides is better and cheaper than catch cans.

Walnut blast the head/valves.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Hi trdtoy, nice to finally chat, I will get a print out next time im in the shop sure! In the mean time heres a photo, since then i have debadged it and blacked out the rear reflectors.

Can you explain what you mean by VTA breather a little more? are you referring to just a valve cover breather on the oil cap or a breather tank setup in the pcv line?
I assume the excessive oil change periods is logical to limit fuel dilution. Speaking of which, Im always skeptical about oil and ive tried a few brands. I find it difficult to determine what is actually a full synthetic grade iv/v and whats just fancy orgo chem functional group mumbojumbo. Which brand is your preffered?
So far i like Nulons fully synth 5w30 the most, its also easy to get in aus. Ive tried valvoline and it was fine, penrite it didnt really like. seemed to lose power under partial throttle.

I dont know much about tuning but uses a HP tuner program, and had several different setups
before we finally settled on a reasonably balanced map.
 

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Hi trdtoy, nice to finally chat, I will get a print out next time im in the shop sure! In the mean time heres a photo, since then i have debadged it and blacked out the rear reflectors.

Can you explain what you mean by VTA breather a little more? are you referring to just a valve cover breather on the oil cap or a breather tank setup in the pcv line?
I assume the excessive oil change periods is logical to limit fuel dilution. Speaking of which, Im always skeptical about oil and ive tried a few brands. I find it difficult to determine what is actually a full synthetic grade iv/v and whats just fancy orgo chem functional group mumbojumbo. Which brand is your preffered?
So far i like Nulons fully synth 5w30 the most, its also easy to get in aus. Ive tried valvoline and it was fine, penrite it didnt really like. seemed to lose power under partial throttle.

I dont know much about tuning but uses a HP tuner program, and had several different setups
before we finally settled on a reasonably balanced map.
Get the dyno when you go to the shop or have them email it to you.

Vent to atmosphere the breather and PCV lines from the valve cover. This requires more than just running lines though. Still super easy and cheap to do. If you run this way you want to keep OCI to 3k miles max which you should be doing anyway. Feel free to convert that to Km.

I'm not sure the oils you have available so I can't easily make a recommendation. And shipping oil there would not be logical either.

Feel free to send me the HP Tuners tune in the car and I'll look at it to see if anything can be improved upon.
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Im taking it in on Thursday will get everything hopefully.

Going to just do a carbon clean as i wont have time to open the engine up and walnut blast everything until mid october.

Back to the vent to atmosphere system. I have one major concern, wont venting to atmosphere the pcv lines affect the mass air pressure sensor governing the entire combustion process?

Its not a check engine light but there was a high cylinder pressure warning in the program. I was thinking cylinder pressure is escaping into the crankcase.

If i do the vent to atmosphere, it is therefore likely i will have to get the car retuned?
 

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Walnut blast can be done by just removing the intake manifold. The intake valves and runners is all that should need done.

VTA the breather and PCV sides from the valve cover properly will no change any of that. Cylinder pressure does make it to the crankcase, which is called blowby. Lowering this pressure is one of the reasons for doing this as well as keeping the blowby from going back through the engine. No retune will be needed.
 

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2015 RB Accent-not so stock 🤫
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VTA the breather and PCV sides from the valve cover properly will no change any of that. Cylinder pressure does make it to the crankcase, which is called blowby. Lowering this pressure is one of the reasons for doing this as well as keeping the blowby from going back through the engine. No retune will be needed.
I'll add to this as @trdtoy is correct on the vent to air or vta of the pcv and clean air ports on the valve cover.

You can use a catch can on both the pcv and clean air but use a filter on the outlet side of the catch can so all the mist and crankcase residue is captured and you're not expelling it all over the ground etc.

I took the information from these forums on the vta subject and went with a good compromise to capture the blow by and just empty the cans every 1500 miles. Pcv side had a third full of goop while the clean air can may have had a few drops.

It's just a suggestion and from emptying my cans I realized they do work great and keep the intake tract nice and clean.
Good luck. 👍
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