[ttwotees]

Got my Pierce Motorsports Brakes (Veloster Turbo Forum Vendor/Supporter) mounted today - Very simple - Remove wheels, remove calipers (2 bolts), remove old discs (2 philips screwes) and mount new discs in reverse order. Torque wheels at
80 ft. lbs.

ttwotees :cool2:

 

[velociraptor]

So you have upper a lower stiffening in the front. Did you do both at the same time and how significant is the stiffening? Nice looking brakes, btw.

 

[Boots Ylectric]

Oh man I can't wait to scrape together some cash and get some pierce parts.

 

[velociraptor]

Oh man I can't wait to scrape together some cash and get some pierce parts.

My issue with that type of upgrade is that I do not have the tools/space to do the work.

 

[MA1tR!X]

Are the front rotors the same diameter as the OEM's (11.8 inches)?

 

[Piercemotorsports]

Those look great Truman! I'm curious to see how that emblem holds up in the engine bay---I'll send you out another for the rear of the car if you like.

Velociraptor, the strutbrace installs in about 10 minutes with a couple of sockets---no need to cut anything and it's super simple if you can borrow a 14mm socket and ratchet-I can talk you through it over the phone. The rotor's require a bit more, a jack and jack stands---but still I'd say at a pretty basic skill level, you can handle it! The 4 point is considerably more work---we can do them here at the shop on the lift in about 10 minutes or so (we've done a few now!!), but on my back on the ground I'd bet it would be 45 minutes or better.

 

[Piercemotorsports]

Are the front rotors the same diameter as the OEM's (11.8 inches)?

Yes sir---direct replacement---I can do them crossdrilled/slotted/or dimpled.

 

[ttwotees]

Nice Brakes for sure

So you have upper a lower stiffening in the front. Did you do both at the same time and how significant is the stiffening? Nice looking brakes, btw.

No, I got the tie rod brace first and then the strut brace because he had not finished the strut braces yet. Next will be either the coilovers Pierce sells or the rear sway bar if he finishes it soon.
With both braces, the front end is significantly stiffer, but still fine for a daily driver. I'm racing Autocross with the Texas Spokes Autocross club (SCCA affiliate)


:cool2: ttwotees

 

[Boots Ylectric]

Yes sir---direct replacement---I can do them crossdrilled/slotted/or dimpled.

Are those cryo treated? Or how are they treated that they look black? Have you been using these on the street and track?

 

[ttwotees]

Those look great Truman! I'm curious to see how that emblem holds up in the engine bay---I'll send you out another for the rear of the car if you like.

Velociraptor, the strutbrace installs in about 10 minutes with a couple of sockets---no need to cut anything and it's super simple if you can borrow a 14mm socket and ratchet-I can talk you through it over the phone. The rotor's require a bit more, a jack and jack stands---but still I'd say at a pretty basic skill level, you can handle it! The 4 point is considerably more work---we can do them here at the shop on the lift in about 10 minutes or so (we've done a few now!!), but on my back on the ground I'd bet it would be 45 minutes or better. View attachment 2940

I'd be happy to put one of your emblems on the sway bar when it's ready, but I want to keep the back of the car simple with only my ARMY & POWMIA decals. Don't want it too busy; I'm sure you understand. I wish the decals I put on the tie rod
brace had been on a white background; with the clear, it doesn't show up as well, but a nice touch (You notice I took off the Innovate Motorsports decal )

ttwotees :cool2:

 

[Piercemotorsports]

Totally understand---yeah the bottom stickers work well/better on lighter colors for sure.

The rotor's are not cryoed---they're zinc coated and can be black or silver---we went with black to match the car.

 

[importmonkey]

just curious...how much weight does all that bracing add to the car?

p.s. that picture makes me really miss my jeep!

 

[Piercemotorsports]

Well it's all chromoly alloy---super rigid, and I can use a pretty thin wall to get the strength needed---the upper brace is right around 6-7lbs and the lower 4 point brace is in the 4-5lb range. Driveability---priceless!!

 

[Boots Ylectric]

Totally understand---yeah the bottom stickers work well/better on lighter colors for sure.

The rotor's are not cryoed---they're zinc coated and can be black or silver---we went with black to match the car.

Would it be worth it to get them Cryoed? I know some shops by me do it, or so I've heard, and I heard if you do it once the rotors realistically should outlast the car.

 

[Piercemotorsports]

Would it be worth it to get them Cryoed? I know some shops by me do it, or so I've heard, and I heard if you do it once the rotors realistically should outlast the car.

If you were doing endurance racing with the car---where stress cracks are an issue then absolutely. For a street car no---the wear is increased a bit, and the resistance to warping a bit more, but your not going to get the crazy heat cycles in them so it's not cost effective. Besides they're warrantied for life anyways!

 

[lagonwagon]

I'm love'n it Jim!

 

[1V4N]

wow awesome, damn I've only gotten the original 4-point chassis brace...now want the front strut tower (and if working on a rear, I may as well wait?)

 

[rx4pain]

I see you also have a 6 point brace. The reality of my driving is daily, not racing. And I live in the Pacific Northwest where the roads are often wet. I have the strut brace and Eibach Pro Kit springs so right now with the stock tires (soon to be replaced with 1" wider rims and Toyo tires) I feel the front in "loaded" and pushing/sliding in tight corners with little steering control. Would a lower front brace make this even worse? Would it be overkill for how I drive my car, which is on the street within somewhat normal limits but spirited driving and taking roundabouts as fast as possible?

 

[Piercemotorsports]

I think the 6 point is over the top for any street driven car, and a requires you to be mindful when driving. The 2 point/4 point would be a better solution---as far as getting rid of the push/understeer, the brace wont effect it either way (it may increase grip at that end a bit/maybe slightly better, but you'd have to be on the track to notice), but would increase your sensitivity/responsiveness on the wheel---overall more confidence inspiring/consistency in the wheel. Adding rear spring rate/more roll stiffness in the back would help bring the balance back towards neutral, at least in off throttle/maintenance throttle (part throttle) corners. The braces also may add grip in harder throttle applications/corner exit keeping things in line.

 

[MyDianaZ06]

in your opinion, would there be much difference between the 4 point and the 6 point bottom front braces? can you tell a big difference between the two on the streets? I'm all about go big or go home and want the 6 Point but I get a little scared when you say you have to be mindful with the 6 point brace. do you mean you have be careful when lowering the vt with the 6 point? and if I went with the 4 point do I still have to worry about lowering with it?

thanks jim