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Pierce Motorsports Brakes - Nice

15967 Views 53 Replies 22 Participants Last post by  Velosynter
Got my Pierce Motorsports Brakes (Veloster Turbo Forum Vendor/Supporter) mounted today - Very simple - Remove wheels, remove calipers (2 bolts), remove old discs (2 philips screwes) and mount new discs in reverse order. Torque wheels at
80 ft. lbs.

ttwotees :cool2:

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Those look great Truman! I'm curious to see how that emblem holds up in the engine bay---I'll send you out another for the rear of the car if you like.

Velociraptor, the strutbrace installs in about 10 minutes with a couple of sockets---no need to cut anything and it's super simple if you can borrow a 14mm socket and ratchet-I can talk you through it over the phone. The rotor's require a bit more, a jack and jack stands---but still I'd say at a pretty basic skill level, you can handle it! The 4 point is considerably more work---we can do them here at the shop on the lift in about 10 minutes or so (we've done a few now!!), but on my back on the ground I'd bet it would be 45 minutes or better. Land vehicle Vehicle Car Hyundai veloster Automotive design
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Are the front rotors the same diameter as the OEM's (11.8 inches)?
Yes sir---direct replacement---I can do them crossdrilled/slotted/or dimpled.
Totally understand---yeah the bottom stickers work well/better on lighter colors for sure.

The rotor's are not cryoed---they're zinc coated and can be black or silver---we went with black to match the car.
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Well it's all chromoly alloy---super rigid, and I can use a pretty thin wall to get the strength needed---the upper brace is right around 6-7lbs and the lower 4 point brace is in the 4-5lb range. Driveability---priceless!!
Would it be worth it to get them Cryoed? I know some shops by me do it, or so I've heard, and I heard if you do it once the rotors realistically should outlast the car.
If you were doing endurance racing with the car---where stress cracks are an issue then absolutely. For a street car no---the wear is increased a bit, and the resistance to warping a bit more, but your not going to get the crazy heat cycles in them so it's not cost effective. Besides they're warrantied for life anyways!
I think the 6 point is over the top for any street driven car, and a requires you to be mindful when driving. The 2 point/4 point would be a better solution---as far as getting rid of the push/understeer, the brace wont effect it either way (it may increase grip at that end a bit/maybe slightly better, but you'd have to be on the track to notice), but would increase your sensitivity/responsiveness on the wheel---overall more confidence inspiring/consistency in the wheel. Adding rear spring rate/more roll stiffness in the back would help bring the balance back towards neutral, at least in off throttle/maintenance throttle (part throttle) corners. The braces also may add grip in harder throttle applications/corner exit keeping things in line.
You know it's your call ultimately---yes there's a difference---if your going all out then that's what the 6 point is about---all out performance. The 4 point has no issues with ground clearance at all---the six reduces the ground clearance by 1.5" at the center of the X---we're 2" lower than stock with our coilovers and another 1/2" lower than stock with out wheel/tire package---so 2.5" lower than stock---and I'm able to get over the tallest speed bumps in our lot if I slow down for them---think of it as if your having to protect the front lip on a lowered car...
Increasing the firmness all the way around would be ideal and getting more rate in the back or more roll resistance---the 2 point will definitely make a difference---we used it at out last event (the 4/6 point will bump me into the next class as I've maxed out the mods/points!) with great success!
They're a metallic pad---I get about 3 track days out of a set of the oem pads with some daily driving in between---I should get a year out of the race pads depending on the track...
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Pierce, how do you considere the performance of you disk and your pad compare to the expensive BREMBO one? I won't put you in a hole, but BREMBO have a NAME* i won't say you have one! but i was just wondering is there a big performance difference? I know there's a cost one though! XD Thanks you Pierce, i do not own your part for the moment but thanks you for what you offer us!
No worries---the two products are in completely different categories---I can tell you that if your an autocrosser/street guy your liable to be quicker on my stuff/smaller stuff because it's much lighter and has better feel with the oem calibrated MC---at the track however the Brembo will outlast the stock size rotor by a LONG ways...The stopping distances would be very similar for a few minutes of hard braking and then the stock size discs/pads will start to fall off a bit while the brembo's should go all day and night. I don't care for the pad compound they use---the performance friction/raybestos race compound/Porterfield R4---even a Hawk blue probably has a better feel to it than what brembo uses. But to be fair, the brake upgrades are in completely different categories---
Ordered! This should be a great improvement in braking along with some unsprung weight loss! Should be about 2 lbs. lighter per corner, per my discussion with Jim.
Got it thanks!
I think you should probably weigh the front rotors again, sounds like you've more than doubled the actual weight-the shipping weight for a pair of fronts is around 50lbs...
You had me nervous so I just checked the shipping weight on Kaishi's fronts and they're 40.2lbs for the the pair and 18lbs for the rear pair...phew!!!
I just checked the shipping info and it was 40.5 lbs. for both. Guessing 19 lbs. each actual which makes sense. Again, sorry, I'll edit my post above and correct it.
No worries-that sounds about right as the boxes they use are pretty thick because of the weight. I don't have one to weigh here, but we weighed a stock one and it was either just under or over 20lbs. The pads break in more like street pads than race pads so they'll get better more responsive in time---they'll start to really show their stuff under repetitive stops/hard use.
We did brake rotors today on a car with our stainless braided lines/our performance track Auto part Disc brake Vehicle brake Wheel Tire
pads---these were of the slotted/drilled variety. I took rotor temps before we swapped them on our little test loop just for kicks---we'll break them in and then run it again and see what we've accomplished/learned.
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Is that still an option ? (The black coating) I didn't see it on the website ... Thanx !
It is an option---you can leave a note with paypal requesting it or just give me a pm here with your address and I'll send you an invoice through paypal directly-thanks
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