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Discussion Starter #1
Ever since taking our Veloser turbo to the track, we've been working on ways to improve the handling, increase grip and overall improve the driving experience behind the wheel. After identifying some of the issues, we've started working on various idea's to help improve the platform. Currently we've got both coilovers and bushings in the works, and as of today we've finished developing/testing a couple of our different options for the lower front chassis braces.

We've built a 2 point tiebar and a 4 point lower subframe brace to help minimize the deflection in the stock crossmember/a-arm mounts and stiffen up the crossmember overall. The 2 point brace bolts to the front of the a-arm bolts and keeps the control arm mounts from flexing which reduces the toe change in both braking and acceleration. The 4 point brace does the same and adds additional strength throughout the crossmember/front chassis by attaching to the rear subframe bolts as well. I can say that the 2 point brace on a daily driven streetcar has a slight improvement on steering feel while the 4 point brace is much more noticeable. When I really noticed the difference was both yesterday and today when I had removed the 4 point brace to paint and take pics (after having them on for nearly two weeks). Steering feel was way more vague, and my daily drive home over the crest/off camber hill was not as confidence inspiring at the same speed. I guess you never know what you've got until it's gone!!!

We made our bars out of chromoly for both the strength and weight savings---never understood why companies would build bars out of ERW/1020 seamed mild steel to save a couple of dollars a foot and a bit of wear and tear on equipment/consumables...Both bars require removing the front a-arm bolts while the 4 point requires the rear subframe bolts to be removed as well. We installed the 2 point brace, took pics, removed it and installed the 4 point brace and took pics in less than 30 minutes. The install is very easy, and could be done by an average guy with a couple of sockets and a floorjack/jackstands.

The two point brace-



The four point brace-

 

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cant wait to recive the 6 point and let you know how it is also count me in for the bushings and anything else that will help this car out
 

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I already purchased the 4 point brace and don't really care about this; but thought it would be worth noting that it appears that the braces will impede the drop down trans mount in the event of a severe front end collision.
 

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After grueling hours of waiting for FedEx to show up, I give you Pierce Motorsports Veloster 6-point Chassis Brace Prototype #001! This will be going on tomorrow.

The origami package


10 minutes of unboxing and de-bubble wrapping later...
 

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Normally I have no interest in aftermarket parts like this for a car like the VT.

But after ogling these parts, dang if I didn't notice that when I go down the steep first ramp in my parking garage the VT doesn't make a creaking sound around the rear hatch.
 

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Very nice Hellhunter. Looks like a very impressive piece.
Looks do not deceive either. I put it on this morning at my friend's shop. The car drives so much better. Flatter, sharper and overall handling is so impressive now. I took a couple photos. I'll post them in a while.
 

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Glad it got there safely---how was the install? We've done it so many times now we kind of take it for granted...How long did it take?
It didn't take very long, but we had a lift and two people which made it easier. Probably maybe 15 minutes tops. I'll've going back tomorrow or Friday to check the torque on the bolts. I got the torque numbers from the Hyundai service site.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Ok good---I was thinking it would be an hour for someone without a lift/on thier back. If you don't mine sharing the torque numbers I'd certainly appreciate it and pass it along to the guys----Thanks!!!
 

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Ok good---I was thinking it would be an hour for someone without a lift/on thier back. If you don't mine sharing the torque numbers I'd certainly appreciate it and pass it along to the guys----Thanks!!!
I know, planning on doing that. Had to get ont he computer to do all of this...I've been doing most of my posting on the Tapatalk app now that it is up. One thing I will note is that I did have to push on one of the 6-point mounts to get the holes to line up properly while he bolted it in. The other side lined up fine then. But yeah, I'm glad I chose to do it there instead of jacking it up and trying to do everything solo on a crawler...even with all my air tools. The extra set of hands made it easier to hold in place while getting it bolted to the lower arms.

Here is a shot of one side going front to back, showing the lower arm connection of the 2-point and the subframe mounting bolt for 4-point, the 6-point is in the back.


Another shot from the side showing the 4 and 6-point bolt locations. I was also surprised (and somewhat impressed) to see a stock flex coupler on the exhaust. a first for a stock car that I've seen.


The torque ratings are as follows for the 2-point and 4-poitn bolts. The 6-point bolts I couldn't find anything for, but being smaller bolts, probably not very high torque. I am under the assumption that the sub frame torque is the "Sub frame stay mounting bolt" as the other one says "bolt & nut" and the 4-point locations do not have nuts.

Sub frame mounting bolt & nut
156.9 ~ 176.5N.m(16.0 ~ 18.0kgf.m, 115.7 ~ 130.2lb-ft)
Sub frame stay mounting bolt
44.1 ~ 53.9N.m(4.5 ~ 5.5kgf.m, 32.5 ~ 39.8lb-ft)
Lower Arm Front
98.1 ~ 117.7N.m(10.0 ~ 12.0kgf.m, 72.3 ~ 86.8lb-ft)

This is the pic form the service site that goes with it.
 

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Nice!!!!!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Ok---finally got everything together/heard from the laser cutter and steel house/got all the ducks in a row. I've been really looking at trying to keep the cost of the bar under $300 without sacrificing strength and quality and still making it what I'd originally envisioned. I'm not really one for compromise so strength and functionallity came first. We're able to offer a 4130 Chromoly, super rigid/strong and very lightweight double tube strutbar with dimpled stengthening plate for $250 plus shipping through the end of the year. After January 1ST it'll likely go up to $295 which is still an incredible value for a one-piece chromoly bar with this much work in it. However for those of you who have already purchased products from me, or for multiple orders we'll waive the shipping and it'll end up being $250 SHIPPED TO YOUR DOOR! I really appreciate everyone's input/support and encouragement---it's motivating to get the idea's/feedback, I'm really enjoying the car and the development---we actually had the car back at the track again on Monday and had a blast! Here's a couple of redundant pics and some more description for those who may have missed it in the thread earlier.

"Ok so finally have the "basic" idea of the strut flange---the actual strut tower is not flat and I now understand why the bars have been built the way they've been. We're going to be up on a pedestal/3 cups---we've got the locating plate centered and lowered as much as possible instead of at the top (and increased the wall thickness to .120 chromoly) to add some stength. We're also adding ribs between the cups/central plate to really stiffen things up/reduce flex/torsional twisting. We've captured/enclosed the cups completely with the central plate to lock everything down/together to maximize the strength/design. We've angled the flanges (and will probably angle the cups) and rear cup to save a few ounces, and will also have the laser cutter add lightening holes in the ribs---probably 3 holes in each plate. The bar will mount without having to remove/trim the plastic wiper piece (allthough it'll have to be lifted to get a socket on the inside/rear strut bolt). You'll just be able to get the brake fluid cap off and we'll make sure it can be filled without removing the brace (with a funnel!). The photo's show the flange mounted to the chassis---keep in mind that the ribs will have lightening holes in them. The photo of the two flanges illustrate the angled cup idea, and then we've layed a brace across the engine so that people can have an idea what it'll look like. The whole brace will be out of 4130 Chromoly for strength/rigidity/weight savings and will really make a difference in the upper tower area.








I'll read back through the thread and PM those that were interested this weekend, or go ahead and give me a PM and I'll get you payment information and take the order. The laser cutter is actually working through the holiday so we'll be able to get the pieces made and start production on them. Thanks again for the support!
 
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