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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hello everybody, My name is Matt and I am new to this forum. I am having some sort of intermittent issue I can not seem to figure out. My car is modified with:

845 FMIC
Typhoon Intake
Hks-M45XL plugs
BTRcc Tune
Deatchworks DW65c fuel pump
Braided fuel line
Mac BOV solenoid
165 thermostat
more non-engine related suspensions upgrades

I am running AMSOIL coolant, MOTUL X-cess 5w-40 oil, and am in CA so I run 91 octane.

I have attached a log file of two pulls, 1-2-3 up to red line. As you can see in both pulls there is timing being pulled. Occasionally I will get what seems to be LSPI at higher RPM'S (sounds like alight popping but there is no bucking or what seems to be a reduction in power - this makes me think it is spark related?) In one of my earlier logs, which I no longer have, it seemed like the fuel pressure was not matching changes in RPM, but I'm not sure if this log is showing the same as I am not pro enough to read logs in an all encompassing way.

I have a new ignition condenser, (just in case) and some 6 gauge wire on order to run it to the battery chassis ground to help with function (which I read in a thread here), as well as a set of coils on order (mainly just to have even if these are fine since they tend to go out). Is there anything I can or should look at based on this log - other than anything spark related?

Thank you guys for taking the time to read and help out!

 

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Post the log
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
My bad! Sorry about that, I had one hell of a day yesterday.


That is the log I mentioned. Maybe I should also note that I am running with my breather VTA, and my PCV running through an OCC (but I think im just gonna vent it and close of the manifold based on what I have read on this forum about the subject).
 

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Need to log only the proper PID and pulls to help determine what's going on. That datalog is not good enough to help determine much.
 

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Log these PID only. Cruise a few miles to settle temps then do a pull 3k to redline in 3rd gear. Settle temps a few more miles and repeat. 2 or 3 pulls will be fine. Make pulls up a slight grade to get better data. Also set log interval to .1 second. Be sure plugs are at .024". Be sure on high octane fuel. Be sure oil is not old. Be sure new oem coils are in if over 50k miles on them. What year model and transmission are you? Is the tune you have made for the car and the mods and that fuel octane?

106283
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
I will set up my PIDS in the way you want and do the pulls in the way you described first thing tomorrow. I will first pull the plugs (HKS-M45XL) and double check the gap, oil is not old. 91 octane is as high as I can get and the tune was purchased from BTR for a 2013 year model, 91 octane fuel. It was loaded onto a spare ECU and shipped to me so it is just a canned tune which I know are possibly not the best. The coils are basically brand new (probably 12k) and are OEM. I am on my second engine with this car, the first one threw a rod but I managed to get a new one under warranty. It is a 2013 year model and that is the year model transmission. The transmission fluid has been replaced with Red Line MT-85 75W85.

Log these PID only. Cruise a few miles to settle temps then do a pull 3k to redline in 3rd gear. Settle temps a few more miles and repeat. 2 or 3 pulls will be fine. Make pulls up a slight grade to get better data. Also set log interval to .1 second. Be sure plugs are at .024". Be sure on high octane fuel. Be sure oil is not old. Be sure new oem coils are in if over 50k miles on them. What year model and transmission are you? Is the tune you have made for the car and the mods and that fuel octane?

View attachment 106283
 

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Sounds good. Yes canned tunes are not good in general. Do you have a BTR tune or Alphaspeed tune which they use now? Neither one is super great from what I've seen. Many have issues with timing pull, throttle modulation, and boost control.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Sounds good. Yes canned tunes are not good in general. Do you have a BTR tune or Alphaspeed tune which they use now? Neither one is super great from what I've seen. Many have issues with timing pull, throttle modulation, and boost control.
It's the older BTR, I bought it a few years ago when I first got the car. Hopefully it's not just the tune, if so ill through the stock ecu back in I guess.
 

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Ya the older BTR tunes were more hit n miss than the newer offerings which are still not as good as others. Will know pretty quickly if tune or the car if you can get a couple pulls on the BTR tune then get the same pulls on the oem tune. I've seen enough to know what "normal" and "safe" look like.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Ya the older BTR tunes were more hit n miss than the newer offerings which are still not as good as others. Will know pretty quickly if tune or the car if you can get a couple pulls on the BTR tune then get the same pulls on the oem tune. I've seen enough to know what "normal" and "safe" look like.
I can do that, Ill check all of the mechanical things you mentioned, do the pulls on the tune, and than switch out to the OEM tune and go do the same pulls.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 · (Edited)

There is the log I managed to grab this morning. This log is tune in, I will try to get the tune pulled out and the stock tune thrown in this afternoon so I can throw the log up for you. First pull was done after warming up a bit. There is a break between the next two as there was traffic and had to just scoot around a bit in the middle then the last two are closer to teach other. I also let out around 6100 on each pull. Around 5900-6000 it sounds like I am getting spark knock or something similar (ticking) so I held into that a bit to try to get something on the logs, but didn't want to hold until the increased redline on the tune, at 7200, because of that. Hopefully that is ok? If not I will go back out an relog.

I adjusted spark gap prior to doing these pulls. I was set at around .026, and I re-gapped to .024 like you advised. I also installed that 6 AWG cable from the condensor over to the chasis ground. That cable and/or the smaller gap seems to have smoothed out the idle a bit which is nice, but I am still getting that ticking and knock retard towards higher RPM.

Thanks for being patient with my crazy ass schedule and helping out!

Also, something I noticed today while watching torque at idle is that my fuel trims or odd, especially my LTFT which was very consistently close to -9 through -14. My STFT seems to jump around a bit between like a high of 2 and alow of about -8 or maybe a little more. I didn't have a PID logging this according to your recommendations so I just wanted to bring it up.
 

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There is the log I managed to grab this morning. This log is tune in, I will try to get the tune pulled out and the stock tune thrown in this afternoon so I can throw the log up for you. First pull was done after warming up a bit. There is a break between the next two as there was traffic and had to just scoot around a bit in the middle then the last two are closer to teach other. I also let out around 6100 on each pull. Around 5900-6000 it sounds like I am getting spark knock or something similar (ticking) so I held into that a bit to try to get something on the logs, but didn't want to hold until the increased redline on the tune, at 7200, because of that. Hopefully that is ok? If not I will go back out an relog.

I adjusted spark gap prior to doing these pulls. I was set at around .026, and I re-gapped to .024 like you advised. I also installed that 6 AWG cable from the condensor over to the chasis ground. That cable and/or the smaller gap seems to have smoothed out the idle a bit which is nice, but I am still getting that ticking and knock retard towards higher RPM.

Thanks for being patient with my crazy ass schedule and helping out!

Also, something I noticed today while watching torque at idle is that my fuel trims or odd, especially my LTFT which was very consistently close to -9 through -14. My STFT seems to jump around a bit between like a high of 2 and alow of about -8 or maybe a little more. I didn't have a PID logging this according to your recommendations so I just wanted to bring it up.
Much better logs there, thanks.

Tune is not safe at all for the mods or the fuel used. Wouldn't even be safe to consider on 93 and water/meth with your mods. Power and boost commands too high with afr too lean for the given mods and fuel. Do not run that tune period in the car especially under heavy throttle.

Saw a car with the same tune last year that did not last long even on 93 and required engine replacement. Warned the guy to not beat the car but you can guess how that went over since it required a new engine.

You can log the LTFT and STFT on the oem tune if you want. To get a better idea on those need idle trims for a few minutes and highway cruise control trims for a few minutes. By doing this and knowing the fuel in the car it can easily be known if there are any issues.

The oem tune should hit 190's load area max and drop to 170 area at redline. Afr will taper down to 10.6 area near redline unless it gets hot then it will get closer to 10. On 91 timing should slowly increase to redline where it should be in the 14-16 area. Fuel trims should be in the -5 to -10 area most likely on the fuel you're running out there. I'll ofcourse analyze the log if/when posted.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Much better logs there, thanks.

Tune is not safe at all for the mods or the fuel used. Wouldn't even be safe to consider on 93 and water/meth with your mods. Power and boost commands too high with afr too lean for the given mods and fuel. Do not run that tune period in the car especially under heavy throttle.

Saw a car with the same tune last year that did not last long even on 93 and required engine replacement. Warned the guy to not beat the car but you can guess how that went over since it required a new engine.

You can log the LTFT and STFT on the oem tune if you want. To get a better idea on those need idle trims for a few minutes and highway cruise control trims for a few minutes. By doing this and knowing the fuel in the car it can easily be known if there are any issues.

The oem tune should hit 190's load area max and drop to 170 area at redline. Afr will taper down to 10.6 area near redline unless it gets hot then it will get closer to 10. On 91 timing should slowly increase to redline where it should be in the 14-16 area. Fuel trims should be in the -5 to -10 area most likely on the fuel you're running out there. I'll ofcourse analyze the log if/when posted.

Alright, stock tune is reinstalled. If it really is the tune, what a damn waste of money that was. And i bet it's responsible for my last engine. Waste of money, thanks BTR.

Anyway here are two pulls on the stock tune. The first one is from about 3500 to red line and then through 4th also to red line. The second is from 3rd at 3k to red line and through 4th to redline. Hope that is fine that I went through 4th, I was having some fun without the engine sounding like it was going to explode.


Here is the second log and it includes idle and cruising fuel trims.

 

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Log looks normal to above avg during WOT. During idle and cruise the fuel trims indicates a possible exhaust leak before the O2 sensor or a vacuum leak. Could be fuel related but doubt it.

If this was in the car when the engine blew the culprit is pretty clear to me.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Log looks normal to above avg during WOT. During idle and cruise the fuel trims indicates a possible exhaust leak before the O2 sensor or a vacuum leak. Could be fuel related but doubt it.

If this was in the car when the engine blew the culprit is pretty clear to me.

Yea that's crazy, what a garbage product. Definitely was the issue then.

One thing happened earlier during a drive; at idle LTFT was sitting pretty negative, which you say is normal based on the fuel and mods on the car, but STFT was doing a weird dip into the -25 range and the car would sound like it was about to stall out a bit (since it was obviously starving of fuel), and then it would catch itself and go to just about 0 - 3 for the STFT and than repeat in like a looped cycle. I wasn't able to catch it on a log because at my next stop before I could start one it had already stopped. I could not get it to repeat.

I will check around for possible vacuum leaks at the engine. As far as an exhaust leak, that would basically leave just the connection at the header to down pipe, and header to engine right? Since the turbo on these is cast into the manifold there shouldn't be an issue there unless the manifold is cracked?


Ok, so now once i sort out weather there are any vacuum/exhaust leaks I'm in need of a tune. Recommendations on a tune, tuner, software?
 

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That information changes things a lot so disregardthe vacuumleak or exhaustleak for now. The issue if the trims are cycling at idle and almost stall is an evap leak. May or may not get a code for it. Welcome in advance. Where is my easy button!

Tune up to you and the tuner.

Tuner recommendations in this order:

Qwik Tyme Performance
SXTH Element Engineering
845 Motorsports


Tork Motorsports
Lap 3
 

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The good news is that you have the replacement engine which should be stronger than the oem that was in it unless ofcourse the tune damaged it some already. This means tuners will not cap you quite as low on power. You will be limited currently by mods on the car and fuel being ran though for max safe power.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
That information changes things a lot so disregardthe vacuumleak or exhaustleak for now. The issue if the trims are cycling at idle and almost stall is an evap leak. May or may not get a code for it. Welcome in advance. Where is my easy button!

Tune up to you and the tuner.

Tuner recommendations in this order:

Qwik Tyme Performance
SXTH Element Engineering
845 Motorsports


Tork Motorsports
Lap 3

How much do you charge for a tune? You should set up a website, the facebook page is kind of awkward.
 

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I do not setup a website or store because I do not want people spending $ on things if they do not need to so everything goes through me to ensure they get what they need first.
 
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