[TurboCarlos]

Hey guys, currently I’m running denso iridium spark plugs heat range 20. This is probably a little too cold for my mostly stock engine. I’m due for a replacement and I’ve priced genuine spark plugs, but I don’t know if I should go colder than genuine. Any suggestions?
I have a k&n typhoon intake, catted dump exhaust, and I’ll be adding a few more bolt ons here and there but I won’t be tuning anytime soon. Thanks

 

[trdtoy]

If not tuning soon then run oem NGK plugs from a 16+ VT or 19+ VN. Be sure the gaps are at .028". Also be sure coils are oem and change out every 50-60k miles.

 

[TurboCarlos]

If not tuning soon then run oem NGK plugs from a 16+ VT or 19+ VN. Be sure the gaps are at .028". Also be sure coils are oem and change out every 50-60k miles.

Forgot about the coils existing lol. Def will look into a change

 

[Engineering Overland]

I know I'm reviving an old thread here, but looking to put in new plugs asap and debating between heat 8 and 9 in my 2013 VT. Looking at either HKS M40XL or NGK R2556G-9. Ive read the M40's are a common option, but I was curious what the downside is to a heat 9 on a stock car as these are normally not recommended until a tune pushing higher numbers? My apologies if this is an obvious question.

 

[trdtoy]

Oem tune use oem ngk plug for a 16+ VT with .028" gap. Tunes with higher boost run the HKS M45XL with .024" gaps. 13 will have no use for a heat range 9 or the race ngk plugs in heat range 9 on the oem tune but once tuned it will.

 

[Engineering Overland]

Thanks for help. I already went ahead and ordered the M40XL which I assume is essentially the same as the OEM 16+ plugs.

 

[trdtoy]

Just a more robust plug in the same heat range that cost 2-3x as much.

 

[Engineering Overland]

Although the heat range is the same, in what way would you consider the M40's more robust? Looking at the OEM NGK plugs, they are right about half the price I spent on the HKS. Worth cancelling? If I'm likely to get more use out of them and/or they can hold up to more abuse, then it maybe its still worth it.

 

[trdtoy]

The M40 are a waste of $ in the VT. No issues with the oem NGK plugs from a 16+ VT on the oem tune in any model year VT or a light tune when gapped properly for the fuel and tune. The heat range 9 is needed for a tune adding decent power like a stage 1 or higher and the M45XL are the cheapest good heat range 9 plug to use for that.

 

[Engineering Overland]

Appreciate the help. I'm gonna try and cancel the M40's then. I found the NGK 97080 heat range 8 I'll order instead, assuming my previous order gets cancelled. I would love to do a tune at some point, but right now it sees a lot of miles as a daily and cant get too much into yet. Only reason I considered jumping to a heat range 9 plug, but wasn't sure if that would be too cool for a stock tune in the meantime.

 

[trdtoy]

On your 13 you may best getting heat range 8 possibly a NGK 1422 which are gapped at .022" and getting a stage 0 tune since the oem tune in the 13 is not great at all. Then later the plugs will still be ok for a stage 1 tune. I do suggest replacing plugs and coils every 50k miles. For coils only use oem from hyundai/kia/mobile or Albert Hwang on FB.

 

[Engineering Overland]

I definitely can vouch that the tune sucks. Would really like to throw a stage 0 on it (would actually prefer to go all out, but for now its gotta be a reliable daily lol). Definitely something to look into when I'm able. How do the 1422's compare to the 97080's? Is it just the preset gap? Ive also looked into coils. Found a good price on an OE set that I may order soon.

 

[trdtoy]

1422 little better plug with a smaller gap. Smaller gap will be needed for higher boost.

Me saying the oem tune sucks is not due to just power it is due to the safety of the tune. Stage 0 from me at least will improve upon that and only add minimum power and boost is not raised.

 

[Engineering Overland]

How much does a stage 0 or even stage 1 run me? I assume stage 1 requires a little extras (maybe downpipe, exhaust, intake?), but as far as the actual tuning process to the ecu goes. The car has treated me well so plan to get rid of it any time soon.

 

[trdtoy]

Compared to the oem tune, my Stage 0 adds minimal power at lower elevation and lower intake air temperatures but more power differential if elevation and IAT are higher while being much safer and smoother running. Just maintained car with proper oem or better parts and 87+ octane fuel. $200

The stage 1 adds usually around 15% power over the stage 1. But yes requires certain mods and fuel octane. $300