Awesome DIY. Thanks.
Shifter Linkage Bushings
9
Ok So I am finally getting around to writing this DIY showing how to replace the shifter linkage bushing on a manual transmission.
First thing I am going to note, which I have multiple times in a couple threads: There are two possible end links for the VTs. You can pretty much tell by the smaller of the two, one is an open circle which the bushing passes all the way through the end link. The other is only open on one side and is capped on the other. There are small diameter differences and depth differences on both end links between the different versions. The TWM set I got originally did not fit. They had to order the other links from Hyundai and modify a set. Unfortunately I lost the pictures of the comparisons to post in here.
This is not a difficult install. It could be slightly time consuming due to where the bushings are.
1) First step: Remove the air intake box. (See turbosocks's DIY for the SRI/CAI install) I already had my SRI on, so it made this a lot easier as I had already removed the entire stock system.
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2) OPTIONAL: Remove the battery and battery tray. This is a completely optional step which I did not perform. As you can see from the picture below, the small bushing is located to the left of the battery tray, but the larger is directly underneath the battery tray. This are a coupe of easy tricks I will get to in a minute. Having to remove/replace these things 4 times helped me figure it out (although I also greased them when I put them back in to make it easier.)
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3) Remove and install the smaller bushing. Pull the retaining pin out and slip the end link off. Then remove the stock bushing form the end link. Use a screwdriver or something to just pop it out. I found it easier to put the bushing on the pin and push the link over it. The angle that the end link goes onto the pin makes it a bit tracky to get a solid brass bushing on at that angle and with no leverage, it makes hammers useless. I found that tapping the end link with a socket wrench head worked well.
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4) The larger bushing is the tricky part (assuming you skipped step 2). I'm proceeding without removal of the tray. The issue here is that since it is under the battery tray, access is limited and visibility is even less. It's mostly done by touch. Get a long big-a$$ screwdriver for this one, preferably a flat-head. Using a pair of needle nose pliers, pull out the pin on top of the bushing and then remove the washer.
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Here's the tricky part, getting the bushing out. As you can see below, the bushing is has some very large opening in it. So the trick is to get the screwdriver in a solid spot on the bushing and push it out. With limited mobility under the tray, it makes it tricky.
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Once the bushing it out, slide the new one over the pin, slip the end link over the bushing, push the e-clip on and push the holding pin back on. You will need pliers to push the e-clip and holding pin on. Make sure the e-clip is on all the way and seated properly.
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If you happened to move the shifter arm, make sure you put it back where it was.
That is it, both bushing are in and now you can shift freely without the "bounce-back" that the stock bushings caused. Aside from the braces, probably the best upgrade I've done to date.
![]()
First thing I am going to note, which I have multiple times in a couple threads: There are two possible end links for the VTs. You can pretty much tell by the smaller of the two, one is an open circle which the bushing passes all the way through the end link. The other is only open on one side and is capped on the other. There are small diameter differences and depth differences on both end links between the different versions. The TWM set I got originally did not fit. They had to order the other links from Hyundai and modify a set. Unfortunately I lost the pictures of the comparisons to post in here.
This is not a difficult install. It could be slightly time consuming due to where the bushings are.
1) First step: Remove the air intake box. (See turbosocks's DIY for the SRI/CAI install) I already had my SRI on, so it made this a lot easier as I had already removed the entire stock system.
2) OPTIONAL: Remove the battery and battery tray. This is a completely optional step which I did not perform. As you can see from the picture below, the small bushing is located to the left of the battery tray, but the larger is directly underneath the battery tray. This are a coupe of easy tricks I will get to in a minute. Having to remove/replace these things 4 times helped me figure it out (although I also greased them when I put them back in to make it easier.)
3) Remove and install the smaller bushing. Pull the retaining pin out and slip the end link off. Then remove the stock bushing form the end link. Use a screwdriver or something to just pop it out. I found it easier to put the bushing on the pin and push the link over it. The angle that the end link goes onto the pin makes it a bit tracky to get a solid brass bushing on at that angle and with no leverage, it makes hammers useless. I found that tapping the end link with a socket wrench head worked well.
4) The larger bushing is the tricky part (assuming you skipped step 2). I'm proceeding without removal of the tray. The issue here is that since it is under the battery tray, access is limited and visibility is even less. It's mostly done by touch. Get a long big-a$$ screwdriver for this one, preferably a flat-head. Using a pair of needle nose pliers, pull out the pin on top of the bushing and then remove the washer.
Here's the tricky part, getting the bushing out. As you can see below, the bushing is has some very large opening in it. So the trick is to get the screwdriver in a solid spot on the bushing and push it out. With limited mobility under the tray, it makes it tricky.
Once the bushing it out, slide the new one over the pin, slip the end link over the bushing, push the e-clip on and push the holding pin back on. You will need pliers to push the e-clip and holding pin on. Make sure the e-clip is on all the way and seated properly.
If you happened to move the shifter arm, make sure you put it back where it was.
That is it, both bushing are in and now you can shift freely without the "bounce-back" that the stock bushings caused. Aside from the braces, probably the best upgrade I've done to date.
