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For a while here was expecting this to be a thread on mods to the bike. :) Let us know the updates on the VT!
 

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2016 Veloster Turbo DCT Ultimate
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Discussion Starter · #142 ·
lol have completely redone the suspension on the bike. Pretty much done with the bike now. Back to the car :)
 

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2016 Veloster Turbo DCT Ultimate
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Discussion Starter · #143 ·
In the spirit of chasing phantom problems and spending money....

-MSD Coils because I'm at 55k. Not sure if the ones in there are from the original owner but I'm replacing for my sanity.

-Replacing the Tork 2.5" DP with an 845 3" DP
  • On the Tork DP...
    • the turbo side flange isn't square (I know this for a fact)
    • Suspect the welds at that flange aren't great (I could pull the DP and inspect this but I'm lazy)
    • 3" will help more in the long term anyway
  • My theory is I have an exhaust leak pre o2
    • Fresh air is getting sucked in near the flange or the welds on that flange.
      • the o2 sensor is fooled into reading lean
      • ecu adds more fuel
    • the end result is the car is actually alot richer than it should be
      • this is corroborated by my historically high LTFT
      • the WMI is also masking this problem by taking -% off of the LTFT
      • suspecting this is why the car makes more load% and boost at 75% throttle vs WOT
-Replacing Vacuum pump because I'm having those electrical issues. (ie. tcs, cel, abs, flashing tpms, dead gauges), Courtesy of Mr.Hwang.
  • This isn't as interesting, but bluelink wasn't working and the dash would freak out on startup for a few seconds. I'd turned the car off, clear the codes then restart.
  • Doesn't happen all the time. But has happened about 4 times in the past 2 weeks.
  • There's a TSB on this issue. Moisture gets into the cap of the vacuum pump and causes shorts.
    • Can also cause more expensive modules (namely the SRS and BCM) to fail because of the power back tracking.
 

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Discussion Starter · #145 ·
Thanks Albert Hwang for the new vacuum pump.

It shipped with an entire new bracket. I didn't want to go through the hassle of taking the bracket off. The vacuum pump is an easy swap though. Disconnect the connector. 2x10mm bolts, some extensions to get to them. Pliers to get the vacuum hose off. (using the bracket to pry the hose off of the pump helps alot in that tight space).

Pulled the old one, so much fluid trapped in the connector... dripped all in my mouth the whole time... I'm sure I could've saved my self alot of money by just giving that connection some TLC. One pin was severely corroded.

Looking at the TSB for the Vacuum pump from Hyundai, they're instructing their techs to apply sealant to the outside of the connector molding on the pump. This wasn't the problem on my pump but I did it anyway. I didn't have their recommended sealant but after talking to my engineering friend about it. Essentially a few passes of clear coat would effectively do the same. Covered the pins and did 3 coats. Placed some dielectric grease on the pins and connected it back up. Rain rolled in.

I can see why the water got in though. That connector has some loose tolerances even though it's locked in. Tiny gap and the rubber gasket on the connector must not be up to the task. Half a mind to put some rtv around the connector just to sleep well at night.


Haven't run yet but will once the rain clears up.
 

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The bit you mentioned about the exhaust leak is interesting. Did you notice your MPG going down? What were some of the symptoms of your car running rich?
 
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Discussion Starter · #147 ·
The bit you mentioned about the exhaust leak is interesting. Did you notice your MPG going down? What were some of the symptoms of your car running rich?
I don't watch MPG too closely just because the calculation is vague and doesn't tell you enough if something is wrong. And I'm not gonna manually tracking my gas stops/miles lol
  • Long term fuel trims (LTFT) are high. Idle is +20%. Without spraying meth, the lowest I'll see is +9% at WOT.
    • So based on this information alone, the car is reading lean. It's adding fuel to meet the expectation from the fuel maps.
    • The car reading lean means air is getting into the system that hasn't been accounted for.
    • I did have a leak on the intake previously but have since solved that
    • I've run a boost leak test up to 30psi (more than I'm targeting) and there are no leaks in the system on the intake side.
    • Possible injector problem?
  • Spark Plugs (Gonna double check the spark plugs later. It's been a while.)
    • Black/Sooty/Carbon deposits on the spark plug indicate rich condition
    • White/Ashy spark plug indicate lean condition
  • Problems producing power
    • Car is capable of a lot more
    • Could be tuning or mechanical
    • I can only work on ruling out the mechanical side
So that's basically my symptoms. It would be easier to tell what the problem is if I had data from before I changed the down pipe, but I don't wasn't logging before that. My trims have always been high. It's just one of that last things I'm trying to tackle on this car.
 

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Discussion Starter · #148 ·

doing this tomorrow lol. I could probably do a shop vac and some soapy water... but this is more fun.
 

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Discussion Starter · #149 ·
Well I pulled off the downpipe in preparation for the new one coming in. And look what I found!

Bicycle part Rim Gas Composite material Carbon
Window Automotive tire Fixture Wood Gas
Wood Audio equipment Material property Gas Personal protective equipment


The pipe has a hairline crack that extend almost all the way around. On one side you can see the pipe and the flange aren't in contact.

Not sure if those spot welds were there to fix the problem or they are supposed to be there.
I can't identify if air is making it in from the back side of the flange. There's a lot of extra material on the back that might be covering a hole. Don't have a good way to pressurize it at the moment.

Wood Tree Sculpture Art Automotive mirror
Wood Auto part Composite material Hardwood Wood stain


Will report back tomorrow on how it turns out.
 

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Not sure if that is a crack or the fact that they just didn’t weld both inside and out. But as long as the outside is welded good you don’t need to do both. Can you see light through the crack?
 

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Discussion Starter · #151 ·
On the inside of the flange you can see the light through the crack. But like you said, the outside welds seem to be fine

Tried to fill the gap with WD40 to see if I can trace any problems on the outside but it just comes through the crack and coats the inside. Would have to come up with something else to test if there's air coming through those outside welds.

The pipe is already getting replaced with a 3" but I'm looking into repairing it to resale.
 

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Discussion Starter · #152 ·
Sxth TCU Tune review, it's snappy, no clutch slippage. car feels good. Unsure about "launch control" or 7k limiter yet.

Good news... downpipe is on!

Bad news. did not fix the issue. So at this point, I either have a different exhaust leak, a fuel problem, or bad map sensors?

  • Don't really think exhaust leak is the problem anymore.
  • Injectors or fuel pump issues...
    • although fuel rail pressure is reading normal everywhere so I don't know what to make of that.
    • lpfp was already replaced
    • currently running alot of berryman's through the tank :)
  • Map sensors could need replacing
    • they're the other part of the AFR equation
    • the harness on the cold pipe, I notice the wire is somewhat exposed there
    • easy to test, cheap to replace
 

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I think they were having issues tuning the car to work properly and did not know if tune or parts related.
 

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I think they were having issues tuning the car to work properly and did not know if tune or parts related.
well..i paid a tune with N75 and loose my money....my car ran faster with my tune than with their tune and they dont want to admit it....even with loggings to prove it with my HP Tuners...i even when to the track... [email protected] with their [email protected] with my tune...they never answer my last email so i guess we are done....
 

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It happens for sure. I have never done that to anyone but it does happen.
 

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Discussion Starter · #157 ·
hi...just curious why you are tuning you car by yourself if you pay a tune to N75 and also what you do with the DCT clutch you bought?...do you install it???
I did pay him for tuning. Project was plagued with issues for a little over a year now. No bad blood with N75, he's a great dude and super supportive and is still helping me along the process!

I haven't installed it yet. I'm just getting to the point where I'm hitting higher power and I haven't noticed any issues with the clutch so far. I'm of half a mind to sell it if I can reach my goal without it.
 

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I did pay him for tuning. Project was plagued with issues for a little over a year now. No bad blood with N75, he's a great dude and super supportive and is still helping me along the process!

I haven't installed it yet. I'm just getting to the point where I'm hitting higher power and I haven't noticed any issues with the clutch so far. I'm of half a mind to sell it if I can reach my goal without it.
well you are lucky then....i loose my money on that but this is how we learn the hard way....my clutch is still holding at my power level which is unknown right now but im guessing is on the 300hp plus since my 111 mph suggests that...good luck with your set up...im using bitedit and pcmflash for my kona what are you using to tune??
 

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Discussion Starter · #159 ·
~3300lbs, 13 @ 111mph? Yeah I'd say you're pushing +330 depending on the conditions. Hope it's got some good rods in there!

winols & tunerpro
 

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The oem tcu tune and clutch have issues holding more than 280-290 hp and tq before slipping on most of the dct cars. Also the kona curb weight is close to 3k not 3.3k lbs. Race weight is what matters with the ET and MPH as well! Be cool to see dyno as well!
 
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