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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
1. Disconect the neg (-) battery cable.
2. Make sure the wheel is straight or put a piece of 1/2" masking tape from the back cover of the wheel to the cover for the column. Cut the tape between the two, this will give you a good visual when reinstalling the wheel.

Blue Light Darkness Electric blue Automotive lighting

3. Loosen the two mounting screws for the airbag (Located on the sides just below the shift paddles for an auto). You will need a T 40 Torx bit. The screws are held in place with a capture device, so they will not fall or come all the way out.

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4. Disconnect the airbag by pulling up the orange tab, the connector will then pull straight off. Remove from the snap clamp and set the airbag aside.

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5. You can now take off the nut holding the wheel on. You will also need to take the connector loose up near the top (Highlighted red).
I didn't need a wheel puller, I just gave two good blows with my fist to the back side of the wheel and it came off (I've read that others have had the same experience).

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If all you are doing is removing the wheel, that's as far as you need to go (See step 9 for wheel installation and torque). If, however, you are disassembling the wheel, go to step 6.

6. Remove the four screws holding the back cover on (highleted red in first picture). You now have access to 4 connectors for the switches and 5 screws for the trim, remove the 5 screws for the trim (highlighted red in step 7 picture).

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7. You can now remove the trim and switches as an assembly.

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8. Remove the 4 screws holding the lower switches in place (green in the above picture). The upper swiches are held in by tabs, just push and the switches will fall out. You can now paint, cover or dip the trim as you wish.

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9. To reassemble, just reverse the order. When installing the wheel make sure to get it straight or line up your tape. Torque the retaining nut to 28.9-36.2 ft/lbs. Install the airbag and toque to 5.8-8.0 ft/lbs. Reinstall the neg (-) battery cable.

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This was not as hard as I thought. From start to the wheel being off, and completely disassembled was about 15 minutes. If you have any questions, just shoot me a PM and I will try to answer your question.
 

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Nice. Did u have to take the steering wheel off to remove that trim? Or was it just an excersise to so what would be required to remove the wheel?
 

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Can you go a step or two further and show the clock spring removal? I need to get to the Multifunction Switches and I'm a bit nervous about doing it.
 

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It really makes the steering wheel stand out, great job bt!!
 

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Can you go a step or two further and show the clock spring removal? I need to get to the Multifunction Switches and I'm a bit nervous about doing it.
this is probably pretty late but you dont need to take the clock spring off to get to the multifunction switches
 

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Will you still be able to drive the car with just the "V" plastic trim off? Because I am planning to take it to a shop to paint it so it will take a while and in the mean time, I will still need to use the car.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I guess you could, but the switches for the audio and cruise snap into that piece, you would have to do without or duck tape them in place. :crazy:
 

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Still looking for information on removing the multifunction switches without removing the clock spring. Can anyone help? I'd love an explanation, or some photos.
 

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I could not remove the airbag module, which is step 1. I loosened the screws as much as possible, though mine were Torx T10, but even when they were freely spinning, the vinyl pad/horn button piece would not come off, no matter how hard I pulled. Help!
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I could not remove the airbag module, which is step 1. I loosened the screws as much as possible, though mine were Torx T10, but even when they were freely spinning, the vinyl pad/horn button piece would not come off, no matter how hard I pulled. Help!
Give me ten minutes and I will try mine again.
 

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I could not remove the airbag module, which is step 1. I loosened the screws as much as possible, though mine were Torx T10, but even when they were freely spinning, the vinyl pad/horn button piece would not come off, no matter how hard I pulled. Help!
"Pull" screw out, pull one side out, repeat. You have to basically keep the screw from slipping back into the airbag module. There's no threads on the steering wheel itself for them so they just sit there...loosely. (I feel there's a .38 Special reference to be made)
 

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1. Disconect the neg (-) battery cable.
2. Make sure the wheel is straight or put a piece of 1/2" masking tape from the back cover of the wheel to the cover for the column. Cut the tape between the two, this will give you a good visual when reinstalling the wheel.

View attachment 5290


3. Loosen the two mounting screws for the airbag (Located on the sides just below the shift paddles for an auto). You will need a T 40 Torx bit. The screws are held in place with a capture device, so they will not fall or come all the way out.

View attachment 5291

4. Disconnect the airbag by pulling up the orange tab, the connector will then pull straight off. Remove from the snap clamp and set the airbag aside.

View attachment 5292

5. You can now take off the nut holding the wheel on. You will also need to take the connector loose up near the top (Highlighted red).
I didn't need a wheel puller, I just gave two good blows with my fist to the back side of the wheel and it came off (I've read that others have had the same experience).

View attachment 5293

If all you are doing is removing the wheel, that's as far as you need to go (See step 9 for wheel installation and torque). If, however, you are disassembling the wheel, go to step 6.

6. Remove the four screws holding the back cover on (highleted red in first picture). You now have access to 4 connectors for the switches and 5 screws for the trim, remove the 5 screws for the trim (highlighted red in step 7 picture).

View attachment 5294 View attachment 5295

7. You can now remove the trim and switches as an assembly.

View attachment 5297

8. Remove the 4 screws holding the lower switches in place (green in the above picture). The upper swiches are held in by tabs, just push and the switches will fall out. You can now paint, cover or dip the trim as you wish.

View attachment 5298 View attachment 5299

9. To reassemble, just reverse the order. When installing the wheel make sure to get it straight or line up your tape. Torque the retaining nut to 28.9-36.2 ft/lbs. Install the airbag and toque to 5.8-8.0 ft/lbs. Reinstall the neg (-) battery cable.

View attachment 5300

This was not as hard as I thought. From start to the wheel being off, and completely disassembled was about 15 minutes. If you have any questions, just shoot me a PM and I will try to answer your question.
Do you have to remove the trim to get at the screw(s) that holds on the paddle shifter? Or can you get to it once you have the airbag off? Gibber
 
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