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Greetings,
I am hearing what sounds like wind noise coming from the engine when under high rpm/wot. This has nothing to do with the outside rushing wind and everything to do with my rpm and throttle because it does it in 1st & 2nd the same as 4th and 5th. As soon as I let off the gas it stops. I have read other threads that would suggest a lose exhaust seal with the cat, or even a lose engine belt. Just got it back from the dealership for a bad ignition coil and spark plugs. 2013 bone stock, engine rebuilt at 65k under warranty. Here is a video of the noise...

 

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trdtoy, how sure are you? and what would the solution be? Keep in mind this noise is only apparent at 4.5 rpm and above. Also no check engine light
 

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trdtoy, how sure are you? and what would the solution be? Keep in mind this noise is only apparent at 4.5 rpm and above. Also no check engine light
 

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If it happens at over 25% throttle it's more than likely a boost leak. If it happens below that at rpm it's not a boost leak.

To me it sounds like recirculation valve diaphragm leak. That's common on these cars. If not that then likely at the resonator in the hot pipe under the motor.

Take all charge piping off, clean all mating surfaces, clamp back on tight, and test again. If it still does it then likely the diaphragm.
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
thanks for the help sir. Do you know of any helpful engine diagrams online that can help me in my quest? Also I bought an OBD2 sensor scanner for my phone from amazon. Does boost pressure get reported back to the veloster ECU? if it does what is typical pressure for a 13 VT at 5k rpm?
 

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thanks for the help sir. Do you know of any helpful engine diagrams online that can help me in my quest? Also I bought an OBD2 sensor scanner for my phone from amazon. Does boost pressure get reported back to the veloster ECU? if it does what is typical pressure for a 13 VT at 5k rpm?
You should not need a diagram to do any of this. Pretty easy. If you have any questions I can walk you through it.

Obd2 reader is good to have along with torque pro app and the advanced hyundai plugin. But only if you have something like the obdlink ones that work the best.

Boost is reported but will vary and be dependent on mods and conditions. Also a small leak may not report a noticeable change. Someone with the maps for your car could tell you what the absolute load % curve should be though. Mine is a 15 auto and should be around 171-175% absolute load at 5k rpm. The 13 may be a little higher but i honestly do not know. Also you can see if you have a code or one pending related to boost.
 

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Appreciate it. Ill get all the stuff in this weekend and report back and ask questions as needed. Glad to be apart of this forum.
 

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trdtroy knows his stuff m4sparks.
Definitely a boost leak.

To simplify it all, the 'charge' system builds pressure the higher the engine's RPMs.
At a certain point the pressure gets high enough that your small leak has some pressure escape (that you're hearing).

Again to keep it simple. (So don't bust my balls everyone)
The blue circle is where the shiny pipe (Hot Pipe) attaches to the turbo.
The red circle is where the hot pipe attaches to the intercooler.
The green circle is the oil filter.
Diagram.jpg

In this the yellow circle is where the intercooler exits and attaches to the cold pipe. The cold pipe connects to the throttle body in the blue circle. The red circle is an aftermarket blow off valve.
Diagram2.png

As you can see from the pictures, there are a lot of couplings/connections between these parts, and if there is a loose clamp, this can lead to your issue. So a good first step is to make sure the clamps are all tight.
The cold pipe, hot pipe, and throttle body are all frequently modified parts, and to an extent the intercooler too, so it's possible that they were modified/messed with and the clamp's weren't tightened.

So before you spend a lot of money check these, and welcome to the community.
 

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Burn51d3 thanks for breaking it down barney style. With this I have everything I need to trouble shoot. I will do my part this weekend after thanksgiving and report back here if the fixes were successful or not. I will be driving around in the mean time but I dont imagine it will be a huge deal.
 

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Remove the bumper and the RCV. Closely inspect the diaphragm. Likely it is has a small rip and the valve needs to be replaced.

Turbosmart stock replacement valve is what I'd swap it out for.
 

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First post, but as opposed to starting a new thread for what I believe is a related issue I wondered if you could offer some insight. Attached is the sound my 2015 VT started making Saturday 12-30-17. There is little power from the vehicle and it struggles to accelerate with any kind of urgency. I don't know that the recording really does justice to the volume of the whine coming from the engine bay. If another style or method of uploading would work better I can do that instead when I get back to my computer. https://www.dropbox.com/sh/z4ymx3mhszz6an3/AACfCE4P8eP-qvpF6CjCO8r7a?dl=0 I believe it to be an issue with the BPV/BOV or a possible lose fitting/hose but before I try to tackle it in the currently single digit temperatures I wanted someone to possibly confirm or reject my current working theory. Thanks.

Edit:
youtube link for those not wanting to deal with DropBox. Also, some more info. There have been no CELs since the issue, nor as far as I can remember ever with the car. It is a 2015 Turbo that has regular oil changes with Mobil 1 Syn. I have a code reader, but it is a simple plugin module that flashes the code and then erases it. I also have a bluetooth OBDII reader that I purchased a few months ago, but my wife says she put it away when she found it and cannot remember where. When I find it, I plan to connect it up to see anything I can find there. Thanks
 
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