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Discussion Starter #1
Went to leave work and all im getting on my 2013 is crank but no fire. Anyone know the pinout for the fuel pump connector? I seem to have a ground and one terminal that is seeing 11.** volts even with the key off..... going to verify with another multi meter later today. Debating just towing the car to the dealer since its supposed to have the ecu recall done tomorrow morning but would rather not get ripped on a $150 tow and then diagnostics.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
all check out so far. I cant seem to find any pinouts to identify which wire is which or which terminal on the relay is the trigger from the pcm so i can confirm it is triggering the relay
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Ok so did some testing before my overnight shift and here is what im finding. Pins 1 & 3 the sending units signal and ground I am seeing a constant 11.** volts. Shouldnt this be 0 with the car off? pulling the fuel pump fuse did not change it. Also the 2 and 4 pins for pump power when i cycle the ignition to run I get a blip on the meter but no measurable voltage. Is it possible that the computer sees there is pressure in the line so it sees no need to cycle the pump? So at this point im assuming that either A I have a bad ground for the relay or the computer is not giving a good signal. Or B somehow a wire has magically broken while the car was sitting during the day shift.

I am going to run 12v directly to the pump tomorrow when i get off and try and test the pump + wire if i can locate it up by the relay. I have also swapped in every swappable relay for the pump to no avail so unless they have all gone bad i think its safe to rule that out.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Car is going to the dealer. I have done all i can do here in the parking lot. Directly wiring the pump to a 12v source made it run but still no start. I still do not get the pump to prime when the ignition is cycled to ON and while cranking the pump is not running. At this point I have no idea what i am missing.
 

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They should be able to quickly diagnose the issue using GDS. If the low pressure fuel pump (LPFP) is not priming with power on, it’s likely kaput.

Then they’ll tell you they have none in stock and you’ll have to wait a week. Push for them to replace it under warranty if indeed it has failed. Can’t hurt to ask.

It’d suck if you have to pay for that and then pay again for a better aftermarket unit.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I hope so. I could get the pump to run by directly wiring in 12v though. Being a 2013 with 116k on the clock i think a warranty claim is far off though lol If it is the pump Ill be picking it up from them with a dolly and order an aftermarket pump. No sense in paying them 400+ for an oem pump
 

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If the pump works with direct power then the pump is good. It's in the control circuit or the LPFP is not the issue.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Just got back from the dealer. They performed the recall flash and the car started so they thought that fixed it. Went to pick it up and after paying the guy asked us to hold on a minute because the car wouldn't start .... lol so now they are confident the crank sensor has gone bad. We will see but unfortunately this means the car is down until at least tuesday.
 

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At least those are relatively cheap to replace. Might as well do the CMPS also because when one critical sensor (CKPS) fails, others may soon follow suit.

See what I mean about not having basic things in stock, though? If sensors are shared across various models, how the fuck do you not have at least a handful of CKPSes in every dealership?
 

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Discussion Starter #13
If this solves the no start problem I will definitely be looking into ordering a cam sensor and maybe a few others.

Its ridiculous the way hyundais parts department works. It seems they stock their parts as far from the dealers as possible. At least its not like when I had to have the coolant outflow pipe replaced and it was on nation wide back order. Not a single one anywhere in the states lol.
 
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SuprcellEF5
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